Evolution

Well...there's this but it's been jacked up quite a bit. https://www.ammunitiondepot.com/965-federal-premium-12-ga-low-recoil-2-3-4-1-oz-truball-rifled-slug.html?unit_type=21

IMO $2.99 is not a bad price for Fed 12ga slugs, especially in these times. I like anything Federal, I think they make very high quality ammo. I but a lot of their American Eagle brand in 9MM & 45 ACP. I really enjoy shooting .44 & .357 Magnum but it's hard to find good prices for it.

Yeah, the way I look at it is, as much as I love it, now is not the time for me to be doing rec. shooting depleting my stores to under what I consider a minimum, when the future availability and fair pricing is so uncertain for the calibers I shoot. Now if I can find it and get it first, then I'll resume the activity.

No, I was only asking if they were FFT's because, I personally had a minor fitment issue with them and have read other people's opinions that they can be not as precise a fit as OEM. I only had them on for a short time for 922R and when I got a US made trigger frame, I ditched them for OEM stippled ones from Tango Arms.

I really don't know all the particulars of which ones etc.. I am only mentioning the one negative that I have heard about the early guns. Whether they were 1014's or M4's, I don't know. But, if I were going to buy an early one whether it was a 1014 or M4, I would look for that.

The only thing that I have ever heard about the early guns is that you don't want one that has a 4 gas port barrel. They went to 2 gas ports after problems.

Have you taken it apart and made sure there is not any dirt or some other obstruction to them mating up? Other than making sure the barrel is flush up against the receiver and the mag nut is gorilla tight, I don't know. I suppose it's possible that one side or both is slightly warped. They are OEM, not FFT?

Oh riiiiight! Now I remember! I had to go back and look at the tutorial thread, it's the 'tombstone' plate that is threaded, not the actual sling plate. I'm old...I forget things.

Looks like a Blue Force Gear sling.

Glad you got one! You mean that the plate was not threaded for the bolt? It was just a hole? IIRC, the ones I have are. The stock retaining bolt threaded into them I'm sure.

I like the green contrast with a black/parkerized gun.

I really can't answer your questions but may add to the mystery more.....mine is a early-2014 made gun that Robar did as an H2O version and it was purchased in California with the fixed pistol grip stock, not a C-stock or fixed C-stock but it has the 3 position tube. I'm away from home at the moment so I can't look at the box end that I kept which has the model# on it.

Personally, i think that they just do. No matter how hard you crank the cap down, after a hundred+ rounds, it's not gonna be as tight as you had it before firing. I posed that question here a looooong time ago and people were like; "huh", whaddaya mean? I never notice that". Then over time more people have posted about it. So maybe it's just the gun or maybe I don't know but, I know that it happens. I think it's possible that the ball detents on the cap could be cut just a wee bit deeper? They are pretty shallow cuts. Some advice given has been to push the barrel tight up against the receiver before beginning to tighten the cap as opposed to just letting the cap as it screws down take up that last 1/8" or so before the barrel is flush against the receiver.

Wow! If you run outta ammo, you could use it as a bayonet.

I don't consider myself qualified to recommend a particular weapon to anyone for self defense but, I will mention one thing though. Not implying anything here, but trespassing, or theft, or breaking into cars are not grounds for shooting a person, EVER. I only mention it because it seems from your post that those are the things that have got you thinking about purchasing a weapon. StrangerDanger's posts in this thread is the best advice.

Not really a PITA to PPT in Ca. Buying is another matter.... have to broker thru an FFL, usually a local gun shop of the seller's choosing. He gets his money up front and the buyer has to wait the ten days which has expanded to anywhere from two weeks to three weeks because of the current backlog of processing. If the buyer fails the background check, it's up to him to straighten it out. The buyer is usually the one who pays all fees. But that can be negotiable between the two parties. I agree about selling a firearm, Iv'e regretted any one Iv'e ever sold unless it was to finance the purchase of one that I wanted more. OP; calguns.net forum would be a place you could put it on the market. Lots of guns are bought and sold and there is a lot of traffic constantly. But my advice, if you're not in dire straits, keep the gun.

I lean on the side of not overthinking things like this. But as it is meant to explain I think is that it's better to start off not using the very light load stuff until the gun has kind of worked it's way in. I think you should be just fine using the load that you mentioned above for "break in."

Member StrangerDanger right here is the man you're looking for..

Never done the job myself and don't plan to. Maybe you did make an error installing the spring causing it to slip. Curious, why have you been removing and installing the latch many times? Seems to me that, that in itself would not be a good idea for that particular part.

Looks like a high quality piece. I have to wonder though if messing with the inertia of the bolt carrier (creating more resistance) might cause malfunctions.

+1

922R is a rather obscure FEDERAL statute. So it's likely most LEO unless ATF would never have heard of it.

I was just thinking about how the parts in the trigger frame interact with one another and Something came to my mind. When I was a young kid there was a game/toy called "Mousetrap" LOL. Anyone old enough to remember it?

Yeah, what they said. Only specialty tool needed is the snap ring pliers. The plastic gunsmith's block is very helpful also. The A&S trigger housing or frame (if you prefer) is a very nice part.