Evolution
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Posts
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Posts posted by Evolution
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2 hours ago, herbie1911 said:
I just talked to the dealer I purchased it from. They told me the plastic bag in a bag is the way they are getting them now. I was just curious. Thanks everyone for the replies. Now to build my m4.
Sheesh.....things must be pretty bad over at Benelli to need to cut costs by eliminating cardboard boxes. And to be honest, lately from what I have been reading, I wouldn't buy one now. QC/QA seems to have gone by the wayside since covid.
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I have purchased a field stock for the M4 and have seen pictures of other stocks including the collapsable ones and they all were contained in a plastic bag within the cardboard box.
Can't remember if the bags had a bar code sticker on them or not.
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Yeah, the design of the front sight is such that you can move it laterally for windage adjustment first, rather than using the rear sight to adjust for windage.
It moves laterally, move it to the right to adjust POI to the left and move it to the left to adjust POI to the right.
The same as an M14 rifle or M1 Garand. Proper procedure is to first move the front sight to obtain windage zero and use the rear sight only if the windage zero cannot be obtained by moving the front sight laterally.
Optimally, the rear should be able to stay centered-with all the adjustment needed to zero windage gained by moving the front sight first.
The problem with the Benelli designed front post, is that the post itself can spin sideways on it's axis while you tighten the nut that secures it, resulting in a sideways tweek of the post.
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While I think it's necessary to have snap ring pliers as part of any home gunsmith's tools, the Benelli mag spring retainer can be removed in a pinch safely, easily and without damage with a flat blade screwdriver.
It actually affords a little bit more control, I think, because as you're working out the retainer with the screwdriver, the fingers of your other hand can be used to grasp the retailer as you work it toward the end of the tube so it doesn't rocket out on you.
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9 hours ago, Brandon101884 said:
I saw that, but I’d rather get reviews from those who have it installed and used it. I actually bought one when I first got my M4 but haven’t put it in because the factory spring seems to be doing just fine. Would I notice a difference?
Would you notice a difference? I doubt it. I use one of them that I got with the titanium tube I bought from them.
I didn't notice any difference from the OEM spring. What really makes a tangible difference is polishing the inside of the mag tube with 0000 steel wool and a cordless drill.
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6 minutes ago, Brandon101884 said:
What difference does this spring make from a stock spring?
If you have not read it already, from CC's website; believe it, or not.
...When only an optimal spring can make up for a marginal spring's occasional failings; We developed this exclusive replacement spring, made to our specifications for the Benelli M4 equipped with a Full Length magazine tube, utilizing W.C. Wolff's proprietary HTCS materials, that exceed the OEM's spring properties in many critical respects. Ever have the OEM spring "get away" from you during takedown/removal? If you noticed it kinked, and required straightening, then you've seen 1st hand one of it's weak links. A spring that kinks easily, will likewise take a "set" easily, diminishing its performance capabilities. No other spring on the market has ever been specifically engineered for the Benelli M4 full length magazine body... until now!! Note; Our Benelli Full Length TITANIUM Magazine Tubes include this "Extra-Power" Spring FREE!
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Yeah....when it comes to mods done on anything, I'm all into balancing functionality and aesthetics. In addition to your points made above, you can't argue against the fact that attaching directly to the mount is much cleaner.
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1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:
Looks like yet another rail that wasn't designed by someone who uses a firearm in the field.
Terrible ergonomics compared to the polymer handguard. Added weight. No placements for lights that make sense. They'll sell a ton.
LOL yeah.😁
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I see that you used the pic rail and associated clamp to mount your light. I would assume that those two left over screws would be the ones that are supplied with the mount to use if you opted to mount the light directly to the boss on the mount rather than to the clamp that attaches to the pic rail.
My 600 is attached directly to the boss on the mount. It affords a much closer proximity to the gun's barrel.
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Yeah...the scout light body can be attached directly to the IWC mount with screws, you don't need the pic rail unless you want to be able to take the light on and off at will without disturbing the mount. Using the pic rail will stand off the light further away from the gun which to me is not optimal. YMMV.
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On 7/14/2022 at 10:14 AM, RxArms said:
PVD aluminum titanium nitride came back, looks pretty killer… It is the only finish that exists out there that checks off all my high quality control boxes; primarily retaining the heat treat on the notches, extremely high corrosion protection, no tolerance interference, high wear resistance. Shout-out to the guy that put me on this path further back in the thread here.
I have been told by the finisher that salt corrosion is essentially non existent with this finish… but no formal military testing has been done since it is used primarily for hard use tooling.
experienced some minor delays at the machine shop, but this week is full production. Coming soon… (sample pic below that I abused a bit to test the finish… and my canine Apollo)
Your dog is pretty cute too!?
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18 hours ago, Unobtanium said:
Thats a 4moa H2, a hold over from before I got NODs. Ironically, when I turn it off, its like setting 3 of 4 NV on a T2 under nods. Now, Id recommend a T2 2moa.
The mount is an ADM Ti mount in CAS-V height.
The rail is an FFT.
This combo has had good RTZ, and tolerated recoil from anything Ive thrown at it, including a fair bit of 3" 00b.
Thanks partner!
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Hey Unobtanium, what MOA Aimpoint do you run and which mount is that? Thanks!
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Any potential mods done to a firearm should be a balance of function, ergonomics, and aesthetics. It has nothing to do with "fashion." The only advantage to that monstrosity it that it indeed has the ability to place the light more forward than an IWC light mount or an AVA mount.
However the weight gain of almost a pound and the huge unwieldily nature of the beast, cancels out any gains, not to mention that it's ugly as hell.
There is a reason why practically nobody uses them and it's not for "fashion" reasons. It's because nobody has so far made an improvement over the OEM hand guards with the exception of stippling them.
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Sorry man, but I think that your choice of putting that ridiculous hunk of uselessness on a beautifully designed and aesthetically pleasing shotgun, is terminally flawed.
It looks like S%$T. And it adds what? A bunch of slots that can never be utilized for anything usefull.
It's an epic waste of money.
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Anything Unobtainium says, regarding the M4/M1014, you can take to the bank. I bought 2 of these, one for my M4 and the other for my 590A1 after reading this thread a few days ago . Shipped from Hong Kong. Got them today. Very fast, like 3 days to where I'm at visiting in California.
Quality is excellent, and you won't damage your thumb.
BTW, I have a SUREFIRE SCOUT M300 ON THE 590A1 AND A SUREFIRE SCOUT M600 on the M4.
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I bought an ASGARD DEFENSE SYSTEMS rail/sidesaddle shell holder a few years ago that operates exactly like the video shows. Picatinny rail replacement for the crappy OEM Benelli rail with a 6 shell side saddle.
Love it. Use it or not simple push button.
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As said above that is the normal position of the head of the retaining pin. A hairs distance from flush with the side of the receiver.
When you push the head to flush with the receiver's side, you are actually pushing the pin out of it's retaining spring groove, hence the tactile click you feel and hear.
As proof of this, substantial pressure is needed to either push out the pin from the opposite side or pull it out from the head side to dislodge the spring from the retaining groove where it normally sits.
When the head of the pin is a hairs width away from the side of the receiver, the pin's groove is being fully retained by the spring.
This is what I have determined from my own M4.
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13 hours ago, rubicon20032003 said:
Heck I must have got ripped off.It was straight out of box too
Luck of the draw maybe? Who knows. My model # from box end is 11718.
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My 2014 NP3 gun came with the fixed pistol grip stock and the 3 position tube.
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Merry Christmas! Peace.?
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^^^^TangoArms..the best.
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^^^^Doesn't surprise me at all that your apparent issue was the spring. When you get down to the last couple of rounds if the spring tension or power remaining is not sufficient enough to throw next the shell well back onto the carrier, it stops up the gun.
Personally, I stay away from FFT supplied stuff.
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2 hours ago, CAUS said:
How does the 3rd-party trigger guard pin cause the problem? Wrong size? Thanks!
The OEM trigger group retaining pin is just a pin, held in place at the head with a cir-clip and retainer. It does not have the capacity to pinch or squeeze the receiver's sides in. The receiver is very thin in that area.
You would think that the trigger housing might prevent that from happening but who knows? If the cross bolt is cranked on.
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My M4 is getting heavier with each add
in Benelli
Posted · Edited by Evolution
This is the best option for a QD sling plate, however they are very hard to get and usually disappear soon after availability.
I have a couple of them in my M4 stocks. Noveski makes quality stuff.
If you want to use the slot though, you will still have to have a 1" wide sling.
https://www.opticsplanet.com/noveske-benelli-qd-sling-plates.html
This outfit makes a copy. And want twice as much for it. I'd wait for a Noveski.
https://freedomfightertactical.com/products/the-fft-qd-sling-plate-for-original-benelli-and-mesa-tactical-stocks