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Sigma05

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Posts posted by Sigma05

  1. 10 hours ago, Steve Rose said:

    To close the bolt (without inserting shells into the tube) you press the bolt release - just like you do on a stock gun.

    If you shoot the gun dry the bolt locks open as expected. You can either press the bolt release to close the bolt, or load the tube and let the gun “auto load”

    All the “auto” parts actually do is (1) let you load the magazine tube with the bolt locked open on an empty gun (2) allow a shell to come out of the mag tube which activates the shell latch allowing the bolt to close and chamber that round chamber.

    Steve, can you still ghost load with this setup? From your description I would say yes, but would like your first hand experience. Thanks in advance. 

    • Upvote 1
  2. 50 minutes ago, Milspec said:

    You might be right.  The idea popped in my head when I dug up an old thread.  Somebody used heat shrink tubing on theirs.

    Unfortunatlley, the pics are no longer active.  I would have liked to see how it looked.

    Heat shrink tubing also holds up well. I did some AK parts like that and have held up well. I even multi-layered it on the charging handle to add more diameter. 

    • Like 1
  3. I don’t think it will stay on and rub off easily. You’d be better off trying with some kind of bed liner that is made to take a beating. Problem is that you can’t buy a small amount. I use Herculiner on the bottom of my flat feet bipods for better grip and it can take serious beating. 

  4. 31 minutes ago, shootingsight said:

    Send an email to shootingsight@fioptics.com that you are interested in the Benelli hammer, and I'll reply when we have something done.

    Art. For some reason it’s bouncing back my emails saying it’s an invalid email address. 

  5. 26 minutes ago, shootingsight said:

    OK, so it looks like ShootingSight will be making these hammers.  S7 Rolled Plate Steel, NiB coating.  Give me a couple of months and I'll have them out.

    Art

    ShootingSight llc

    www.shootingsight.com

    Awesome Art! Thanks for doing this. 

  6. 27 minutes ago, Birdog19 said:

    Sigma you just turned my whole upgrade build plan upside down!  I have an RMR on my home built P80 Glock but I never realized it had that kinda battery life.  Just checked their website and sure enough, 2-5 years depending.  I might have to rethink the Streamlight light/laser combo for just a light and RMR.

    THANKS!  Birdog

    That’s why I went that route when somebody else informed me. Thought I’d share it since it’s quite a game changer when it comes to choosing self defense optics. 

    • Upvote 1
  7. 37 minutes ago, Birdog19 said:

     

    • The Red dot is a Burris Fast Fire III.  I don't care for the ghost ring sights no matter how sexy they look in pics.  One could argue the practicality of fumbling to turn on a red dot with a massive adrenaline dump during a home invasion.  It's great for 3-Gun though. 

    Get an RMR, SRO or Aimpoint Micro and you’ll be able to keep it on 24/7/356. I swap the batteries on my birthday and never turn it off. Always on when I need it. 

    • Upvote 1
  8. 25 minutes ago, Birdog19 said:

    https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/benelli/shotguns-benelli/semi-auto-shotguns/m4-super-90

    This site appears to have all Benelli OEM parts with OEM part numbers.  I did not do a spot check cross reference with the Benelli USA site.

    Good luck, Birdog

    Thanks but I don’t think these are factory part numbers. They must be Numrich specific numbers. I looked up a few parts and cross referenced with others like Benelli Parts, Brownells, Midway and Midwest. The part numbers coincide with each other but not with Numrich. I could be wrong since I’m not an expert at ordering Benelli parts. 

  9. On 5/12/2019 at 12:48 PM, Assi said:

    the rear ghost sight makes it nearly impossible to track the clays mainly because the ghost sight protective vertical wings.

    You could also grind down the wings. My 870 ghost ring doesn’t have the wings and you do have a much better field of view. I may go ahead and do it myself. :)

     

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    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1
  10. I got the GG&G bolt release for a few reasons. It wasn’t a modify your existing one type of kit. It comes complete with the whole assembly. I can handle to modifying but I did this to have a spare. Second it doesn’t have huge logos all over it. Third it has a slot so it doesn’t rotate. Fourth it doesn’t stick out as much as other either. 

    • Like 1
  11. 9 minutes ago, Steve Rose said:

    Loosen a bit more, or better yet remove the stock, then install the trigger group and its pins. Now reattach the stock. (The stock is impeding the trigger groups from seating into place where the trigger housing contacts the stock)

    You can’t do that on the M4. The trigger has a slot that goes into the stock. It’s what stops the stock from coming loose.  If you install trigger before stock, you won’t be able to install the stock because the trigger will get in the way. 

  12. 5 hours ago, DC DOG said:

    First, thanks for the great post (with pictures no less). I really enjoy it when members take the time to create informative posts, then follow up by answering questions.

    Have to say, “reasonably priced” fore ends (that work well) seem to have become a thing of the past with M4s. I almost ordered this product on-sight after reading your post and seeing that it was available in FDE.

    But then I saw (for lack of a better term) “set screws” holding the fore end in place. That gave me pause. I regularly shoot my M4 (now, 2000+ rounds), so using it,  breaking it down, and cleaning it is a regular issue. Looks like the product video shows applying mild loctite as part of the install. Here are my concerns:

    (1) Given that the product uses “set screws” to maintain position, have you had any problems with fore end rotation or movement after the install, especially after a “range day” of shooting?

    (2) If you’ve shot your M4 regularly after the install, have you noticed any issues with the “set screws” moving, creating damage, or otherwise causing a nuisance after the install?

    (3) Do you use a mild loctite with the “set screws” and, if so, have you had any complications when removing the fore end for cleaning?  

    Advice appreciated and respected!

    1. First time I installed it, it did move while practicing dummy loading. It was because I had only slightly tightened it. After that I tightened it down well and it hasn’t budged after many life fire training sessions and a match. I’m easily over 1000 rounds with it on. Make sure you tighten down the magazine tube cap first, and check that barrel is seated properly against receiver, before tightening set screws. Otherwise the front set screws will sit on the edge of the front mounting location.

    2. They have not moved. They do leave a small “dimple” in the finish of the front set screws. Doesn’t bother me but it could bother some. I actually went and made a small recess with the Dremel, so that the set screws have a fixed location to grab. 

    3. I used blue loctite and it has worked well. Hasn’t loosened, and wasn’t an issue removing forend. I have removed it several times and haven’t had to reapply loctite yet. 

    Like many, I agree that it’s not a great setup with the set screws, but I do like the feel of the grip and Mlok feature. Until something better comes out, this has been doing the job well, despite having to use tools to strip down the shotgun. 

    • Upvote 2
  13. 18 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

    Makes sense. I was going to recommend loading from belt mounted clips like the California Competition holder and removing the shell carrier. Every shell you add to the gun adds 2 ounces. Loading from these types of holders is faster than cherry picking from a shell carrier  since you’re loading 2 or 3 shells per grab depending on hand size. Some guys are even grabbing 4 at a time. Figure you have half a pound of ammo in the carrier plus the weight of the carrier. It’s not so much the weight, but how it affects how you can swing the gun from target to target  

    I didn’t see what magazine tube you had installed. Is it a titanium model? That’ll cut another 5.5 ounces off the front end if that hasn’t been done. Reportedly, Briley is making a carbon fiber magazine tube. I haven’t seen any weight data yet though.

     

    Those Hayl rails are comfortable, but the attachment system sucks. Using set screws is a terrible design. Briley is releasing their rail soon, which promises to be a better design. 

    I like to be able to pick up the shotgun and have as much ammo on it as possible. I’m not always wearing something that allows me to put stuff in my belt. Winning matches is not my priority. I use them as training and getting me out of my comfort zone. 

    I agree on the Hayl handguard, but until something better becomes available, it works for me. :)

  14. 1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:

    Sigma -

    Sorry to year about your injury. What you’re doing makes sense. A friend of mine had a similar injury from Rally racing. He’d end up tying that hand to the shifter for the races. 

    Do you find it to be easier if the shotgun or rifle is lighter? I’d also recommend the A&S trigger frame for loading. 

    894E1CDA-4223-43E8-AAE9-3E3789004BD1.thumb.jpeg.630039853b1237f479c269694032ded8.jpeg

    Here’s another screen shot practicing loads. You can see I don’t use muscles at all. Elbow is against body and shotgun is supported up on shoulder. I don’t invert shotgun completely like some do. Makes getting back on target faster too since I don’t have to adjust hands. Have been doing it this way for quite some time with my 870. Long before the 3Gun fad started. 

  15. 17 minutes ago, StrangerDanger said:

    Sigma -

    Sorry to year about your injury. What you’re doing makes sense. A friend of mine had a similar injury from Rally racing. He’d end up tying that hand to the shifter for the races. 

    Do you find it to be easier if the shotgun or rifle is lighter? I’d also recommend the A&S trigger frame for loading. 

    Weight matters more when I’m shooting and arm is extended and holding up long gun. Not during loading because my shoulder holds the weight. My primary rifle is a G36C precisely because it’s light. A&S trigger frame is definitely in the plans in the near future. Very well designed. 

  16. 2 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

    I could never get used to having a hand stop on the bottom of my handguard with the shotgun. It slowed me down when transitioning between firing and loading. I never liked being locked in to one hand position on the support hand. Depending on what I was shooting at or what kind of cover I was utilizing, having my hand in different locations helped.

     

    Hopefully it works for you though. 

    I have a somewhat weird way of doing things for a good reason. I was hit by a car and nearly lost my left arm. I’ve had many operations to recover it, and I nearly had it back up 100%. Unfortunately it’s started failing again and I have a hard time keeping it in shape. Due to this, I primarily shot handguns with my right only for many years. That jacked up my tendons in my right arm. Especially because I only shot .40 all those years. I have very little arm strength, so I started loading my shotgun on my shoulder so I wouldn’t have to strong arm it. Long before it as a thing with quad loads. Once load two and four started happening, I just kept doing it the same way. I have the hand stops because of a weak grip. I can’t just hold with a lot of strength in my hands. I just pull on the hand stops. I do the same with my rifles. I do adjust my grip like you, but what I do is shift the hand stop back and forth between my fingers when needed. I generally don’t change my grip when loading. You can see it in the screenshot of a POV video I shot at last Gunfighter match. In the pic I’m wearing a glove on my left hand so I don’t burn myself on the hot barrel. I only load two for the same hand issues. Besides having small hands, I have a hard time retaining the four shells due to the tendon and muscles issues. Despite all that, I still shoot as much as I can and love doing it.

     

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    • Upvote 2
  17. 10 minutes ago, Fodderwing said:

    How much does it weigh, loaded mag and full side saddle included?

    Ghost load included? ;) No clue. I guess I should weigh it out of curiosity. Will do it and get back to you on that. 

  18. 5 minutes ago, RPC said:

    Does this require an adapter or anything? I’ve seen Limbsaver recommended previously and done research (all great recommendations) and only found comments on fit issues & that it doesn’t come with hardware, but it also seems like some of LS’s buttpads require adapters. 

    Does this require choke threads in the barrel or does it mount externally? Initial research inconclusive. 

    Would you use the same again or recommend I look at another offering. 

    Again, thanks Sigma. 

    No adapter. Just lube screwdriver and remove hardware from factory buttpad. 

    I comes with a choke that has thread on the end and you thread it to that. It’s specific for the M4. You’ll see when you look it up. 

    I would recommend a lower profile one. Mine had a thick base which makes it stick out a lot. Will eventually swap it out. There’s a ton out there. Look up “match saver”.

  19. 42 minutes ago, RPC said:

    Sigma-

    Could you please share the following:

    - Part # of the LimbSaver pad

    - Make/model of the door breacher

    - Is the single shell holder part of the hand guard or separate?

    - - If separate, make/model?

    Thanks in advance. 

    Limbsaver 10403

    Standoff breacher is original Benelli made for M4.

    Taccom match saver. There are much lower profile ones out there I just happen to have this one laying around in the spares box for my 870. I’ve seen ones with M-Lok mounts too  

     

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