Bolt_308

Got mine today as well- after testing it next to the current Taran Tactical charging handle I had been running on my M4 and which was my current favorite, i am sticking with the Rx arms one! I like the extra width, and it uses the same very positive locking set up as the Taran Tactical one, which means it is very firmly and positively locked in, does not rotate, and will not fall out. I was also glad to see that it has plenty of clearance and will not rub the frame like the Freedom Fighter charging handle I tried first. The knurling is perfect for me as well, enough that you will not lose grip but not so knurled that it is uncomfortable! Very pleased!

And ANOTHER notification of being in stock straight from Benelli, for $135: https://www.shopbenelli.com/stocks/81041

Just FYI that the for sure real deal Benelli m4 field stock is in stock as of right now at Midwest gun works https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/81041 alert just popped up on my email. A little more money, but if you missed out on this deal and wanted to be sure you were getting the real thing . . . ?

LOL I thought the same thing after watching the video on them making the wood stocks- oooh a wood furniture m4 would be neat ?

@rubicon20032003 You know, it is interesting- when you look up that company, https://www.sarca.it/aboutus they are based out of Italy, and if you go to their ‘about’ page they talk about how they were founded by Beretta group, that all Beretta double stack mags have been made there since 1989, and that they also make wood stocks for them as a beretta group contractor. Guess I will see what I get when it arrives, worst case scenario I am out 89 bucks. . .

No relation, but heads up that if you are looking for a M4 field stock and dont want to pay Freedom Fighter Tacticals current inflated price of $325, there is a seller on Ebay listing showing the correct part number 81041 field stock. Shows 3 in stock after I went ahead and ordered one, so hopefully it will be as advertised. Figured for that price worth a shot, as I have been looking for the field stock at ‘normal’ prices for a while now . . . https://www.ebay.com/itm/125018242743?hash=item1d1baafeb7:g:5gYAAOSwqOdhnV7d

I assume you have seen my posts on my bolt being out of spec and causing the grinding/not smooth on my m4? I also got a m1014, and that one is smooth as butter. Did you check to make sure the ejector isnt rubbing on the bolt face, like mine was? It make it seem gritty and not smooth in cycling . . .

Hey all- wanted to provide a quick/final update to my M4 saga! If you have been following along here are the two prior threads, where I talked about my issues with my brand new M4, how eventually Benelli had me ship it back and after a several week turnaround it came back to me, but still had issues and was unsatisfactory, and after talking to CS again and eventually having it escalated to the shop manager, they had agreed to swap me a new bolt. https://forums.benelliusa.com/topic/24783-help-new-m4-bolt-hangingsticking/#comment-163451 https://forums.benelliusa.com/topic/24890-brand-new-m4-back-from-benelli-“repair”-thoughts/#comment-164250 I shipped back my bad bolt, and I was expecting it to be another long turnaround again in that I would have to wait for them to get it, inspect it, and then ship out the replacement bolt. I was happy to see that right after Benelli CS got confirmation that I had shipped the bad bolt, they went ahead and shipped out the replacement right away, so less delay, which was appreciated. There ended up being a delay in shipping, but that was due to the current bad state of shipping companies infrastructure and not Benelli’s fault. The bolt arrived today, and after oiling I installed it and gave it a test. I am happy to report that all is finally good!! As I suspected, the bolt was the issue, as i had tested my M1014 bolt in the M4 and it had functioned smoothly. So happy to report that I am finally back in business with this brand new M4 after many weeks delay. I still have the gouge under the ejector caused by the bad bolt, but it appears to be cosmetic only/not effecting function and so I will live with it. Prior to sending the bad bolt back, I took some pictures of it side by side with my good M1014 bolt. Hard to take exact/detailed pictures, but you can see that the bolt head on the bad bolt is rotated slightly differently then the good bolt, rotated further counterclockwise, if that makes sense. FYI the bad bolt is the one with the ground out ejector groove, where the tech ground/filed it down as the initial ‘fix’. Some of the picture angles make it look worse then it was, and I wish i would have had some calipers or something to take some exact measurements, but as what happened, all it takes is a slight difference to throw everything off:

Hello sir- i will take this. PM incoming . ..

First of all, all thanks to @StrangerDanger for his excellent write ups on how to remove/swap out recoil tubes. FYI that as his newer How To states, whatever threadlocker they use on the newer guns, my heat gun was absolutely no match for it. I heated for over an hour and a half, and not even the nut would budge! I then pulled out a small cheap adjustable propane torch, and BAMMM, less than 5 minutes and I had the nut off, and a couple of minutes later the tube rotated easily and removed! Zero damage and zero markings to the reciever, and actually it was much cooler after I was done with the propane torch then it was when I heated the nut for 1 and a half hours with the heat gun. So small propane torch is the way to go for sure! I used this cheap small but adjustable Benzomatic, set to a very low pencil flame setting, and regular old blue bottle propane. https://www.bernzomatic.com/Products/Hand-Torches/Trigger-Start/WT2301 Only problem is that I now had to do the whole procedure TWICE,? see explanation below . . . Since I really wanted a fully collapsing stock M4 like we all do, as you all know the only way to get the parts needed right now is to pay a fortune on Gunbroker, get lucky, or wait for one of the vendors to get one in stock. So i had devised a plan to buy both a standard stock M4 and a M1014 which comes with the Cstock but on a fixed recoil tube in stock. As you know from my earlier posts, my first M4 I bought has had all kinds of trouble, but hopefully now with some light at the end of the tunnel in getting a new bolt sent from Benelli, I went ahead and swapped recoil tubes, since as you know the regular M4 has the correct 3 position tube under the pistol grip stock. Pain in the butt way to get to how the gun should have been imported from the start, but done now! Plan is to sell the extra M4 (with full disclosure to buyer that it now has the single position tube in it). Lots of $$$ invested initially, but should come out net much cheaper than if I bought a Cstock or 3 position recoil tube right now off Gunbroker at current prices. PS- I am aware of the differences RE M1014 having fixed choke etc, but for some unknown reason to me I just like that it has the M1014 markings and flag, and wont ever be changing out chokes anyways, so that is the one I was planning on keeping from the start ;-). Let me know what you think! Good to have a bit of a win after all the trouble of dealing with my M4’s problems . . . ?

I ordered one about 2 months ago, so since I figure I still had a while to wait, I went ahead and kept the order, and also bought the Briley carbon fiber tube, which was in stock and shipped right away. Briley tube is very nice- once I get the Carrier Comp I will compare and then decide which one to keep . . .

I assume you were responding to a different user about a different post on here that looks like it has since been deleted and not by me yeah?

Update to this- I called Benelli back. The CS guy I talked to was nice, however he was following a script, which basically said that they would need to have me send it back again, to re-review. I explained that I had already done that once with a brand new gun, providing detailed written description and pictures, however still was not resolved, and the damage and ‘repair’ to the gun was still there. I explained the switch out of the bolts with my current M1014, and how the other bolt worked in the M4. Also pointed out how the repair description itself didnt have the right name of the piece that was modified- “ejector vs extractor”. I had to push, but eventually told the CS guy to talk to a manager, which he agreed. He went to find the shop manager, and then came back a little while later and said the manager had reviewed the case and “we dont normally do this” but we would be willing to send you a replacement bolt. However we need to have your initial bolt back first. So he is sending me a return label to ship them the bolt, and then stated that once they have it they will ship me out a new bolt to test. Ironically though this call, which I intentionally remained VERY calm so as to not allow for any description of a yelling/cussing Customer, I mentioned how i had several posts going on the forum with the pictures if they needed to review to see the damage. I got the same response as I received the first time I called, that “the forum isn’t run by benelli”. I told him that was not why I was telling him this, I was telling him this both so they could see the pictures again that i had posted and printed to them, as well as the threads with the various feedback. I said that if I were Benelli management I would want to take notice of the reports/posts/pictures/concerns, as not only is it bad product but also potentially bad press for the company. I also did not say this as a threat, it was to raise awareness to them to hopefully do the right thing, in that I also work in management for a major company, and would be something that if it was happening in my company we would address and make right for the customer. I am still not happy with having to wait several more weeks to send in the bad bolt and wait to get a bolt back from them, but I will give it a chance. It does not address the damage that the initial bad bolt caused to the ejector housing. This doesnt affect function, so maybe I will just have to let that go if the new bolt works, but still a bummer all the way. PS I am trying to just post facts of what is happening without anger/threats etc, dont want to become ‘that guy’, so apologies if this is at all coming across that way.

Ha thats a good point and funily enough when i read the work order i didnt even notice that they had put the wrong name of the part of the bolt THEMSELVES, calling it the extractor and “extractor cut” when it is the ejector, like Evolution said.

Yeah sorry that was what i meant, words get tough when frustration sets in! ? Apparently you cant edit a first post on a thread?

Thanks all for the replies- so interesting development just now. I was playing with the gun, and realized that occasionally the bolt when closed, would ‘hang up’ for a second before going back. It happens when i ever so slightly would pull out on the charging handle while pulling back. Meaning unless I was either pulling perfectly straight back or pushing in while pulling the charging handle back, no problems, but if i pulled out slightly, it would bind before moving back. I tried it on my M1014 and the bolt in that gun works smooth as glass any direction I apply pressure. After taking a break due to frustration, I went back in and was just looking at the gun. Then it dawned on me- hey I could try the bolt in my M1014 in the malfunctioning M4! So I swapped out bolts, and lo and behold, the M1014 bolt ran smooth as glass in the problem M4! So it definitely is the bolt, or some part of the bolt assembly. I will contact Benelli back and alert them to this thread as well as tell them the update, and see what they will do. In short, I would need a brand new bolt sent to me, as well as a repair to the extractor that is gouged, or yes will ask for a replacement or money back. So disappointing that it took little old me all of 5 minutes swapping out the bolts to figure out that the bolt assembly is the issue, and still an issue. LMK if you agree I am on the right track or if there is anything else I am missing . . .

This is an update to the post I made on Sept 18th here: https://forums.benelliusa.com/topic/24783-help-new-m4-bolt-hangingsticking/ . After contacting Benelli and them stating my brand spanking new M4 needed to go back, I sadly packed it up and shipped it out, including a note as to what was happening, and copies of the photos I had posted in the last post showing the damage to the extractor and where it was grinding against the side of the bolt and hanging up. Fast forward to today, and the gun returned, 40 days later. I did not receive any communication from Benelli beyond that the gun was being shipped back, IE no explanation as to the issue/work/repair done. I eagerly opened the box, and was surprised by what I found. Inside with this document, see attached pic, explaining the work that was done. In short, it looks like they modified/widened the extractor groove on the bolt head, checked tolerances, test fired, and . . . Thats it. Extractor still all gouged on the bottom side. I can confirm the gun was test fired, as it was not cleaned afterwards and was dirty with residue. I cleaned it up, oiled it, put it back together, and ran the bolt. At first the bolt was hanging up/not smooth, however things seem to smooth out a touch after a few racks, so not sure if it was because it was dirty or what. Note that I actually since then have purchased a M1014, and that bolt is buttery smooth, this one less so when racking side by side. I would be interested to know the thoughts of the collective. I am a patient guy, and have been for the 40 days I have been waiting for my brand new 2k gun to return. I guess I would say I am disappointed, but dont want to be overreacting either. Thoughts?

I I assume this means that this sold, but just in case if not I would like to purchase~ let me know, thanks~

Hmm not 100% sure, but I am pretty sure I used screws that came with the Holosun, as they are Torx. I test fit it before installing, and the first screws I used were too long, stuck out the bottom of the Scarworks mount. Tried the shorter screws, and they fit perfectly, getting full ‘bite’, without sticking out below.

Here, I tried to take a couple pictures of the sight picture, however that is SUPER hard to do with all the focusing issues with a camera! Nice thing too about the Holosuns is that they have the ‘Eotech’ style circle/dot, which I think works really well for this sight picture and for shotguns in general. Hopefully it makes sense, but with normal eyes up, the rear ‘ghost’ ring of the sight truly goes ‘ghost’ and disappears. However if red dot were to go out, could drop head just slightly, and able to still quickly use irons. This is all sighted in to home defense distances. I think it would take a lot of cranking down to totally lose the use of the iron sights, which then would not be zeroed correctly. For me, only going to be using this at HD distances, so it works perfect for having the irons out of the way when 99.9% of the time i am using the red dot to sight in, but then the 1% chance that the red dot goes out, I am still in business. FYI too that I chose the Modlite as my light of choice on this gun because they have a very tight focused beam- you can use it as a sighting solution as well in a true pickle . . . LMK if that makes sense!

It’s the Holosun 508T - the titanium version. I like the titanium version as it is slightly lighter, but more importantly doesnt have all the big bright white holosun lettering ;-), and the titanium color matches the M4 well. This particular one is one of the older Titanium versions before they switched to a more square profile on the new ones. It is a lower 1/3 co witness with the Saberworks SYNC mount for M4s. It is actually slightly lower than 1/3, just barely rising above the bottom of the viewing window, and is perfect IMO. Just enough there that if the red dot malfunctions you have irons right there ready to go, but when red dot is working, is out of the way and doesnt clutter the sight picture.

I had read on this forum and others that the opposite was at least initially true- that the new guns were coming in loaded with locktite, and a bear to break free. Maybe mine was a fluke, but maybe not if you are saying you had the same experience! ?

So if you recall, I am the guy that posted a couple weeks ago about how I had bought my first M4 and right away had to send it back to Benelli due to it grinding and not to spec. The update to that M4 btw is that it went back to Benelli, and has been there for 2 weeks so far. Sigh. Well, my plan had been to eventually get a collapsing C-stock, but as you know, they are unobtainable right now, or just crazy expensive. Sooooo, impatient me struck on the idea of buying a second gun, an M1014, then once i get the M4 back from Benelli, swap out the recoil tube to get a fully functioning C-stock! I will then sell the extra M4 to a buddy of mine who has full disclosure that it no longer has the three position tube and is fine with it. Win win- I get the full collapsing Cstock, and he gets a M4 for a greatly reduced cost from me. ANYWAYS, so while my first M4 is at the shop, I found and bought a M1014, and have been decking it out. I had purchased one of the Briley carbon fiber mag tube, but had been very scared to tackle the job, fearing all the horror stories about how you had to heat it forever, and be prepared for gobs of red locktite everywhere. So got everything together, stripped down the M1014, took a deep breath, and started heating with a heat gun. I started a timer, settling in for the long haul. Around 4 minutes in, again impatient me thought Ehhhh lets give it a test, knowing it wasnt going to budge and I was just being silly. Imagine my AMAZEMENT when IT TURNED!!! I was completely caught off guard, quickly grabbing my oven mitts, and started turning. LO AND BEHOLD, it screwed right off!!! I was like WHAAAT??? Inspecting the threading, there was NO residue on the reciever. There was a TINY bit of red locktite on the mag tube threads, and that was IT! SO I gave it a couple of minutes for the receiver to cool, although it really wasnt that hot, screwed on the carbon fiber tube, and reinstalled everything. All said and done, maybe less that 10 minutes! The carbon fiber tube is AWESOME btw, makes the front end way lighter. I had ordered a Carriercomp TI tube which is still on order, and will test it when it arrives, but man the Briley tube is very nice. Anyways that’s my story, happy to have a win after the hell of having to send a brand new M4 to Benelli. Maybe I just got lucky, maybe Benelli is taking pity on the American market knowing we are all going to change out the tube, or maybe they are just being lazy/cutting more corners, but I WILL TAKE IT!

Ok so maybe I am just stupid and tired, but is there a trick to removing this handle? I actually really like the handle, is just large enough to ease manipulating the bolt, and it locks in firmly, however with the new ones having the one dimple/divot where it locks in, it was a real bear to pull back out. Is there a trick that I am missing, or is it just always that difficult? I mean, I guess I would rather have it more firmly installed then apt to come loose, but took a lot of force to get it to come back out. Ended up using a rag and a pair of pliers to get it to pop out. Any ideas?

For the record I just installed this exact charging handle yesterday and found the same thing- BARELY any space between, and no way am I going to shoot it with it that close. What a waste. I am testing the Taran tactical handle now, at least there is no worries about it rubbing. . .