Hookster Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 I'm thinking of ordering the sidearmor rail system but I notice they list it as being for M4/1014 does anyone have first hand experience putting one on a 11707 or know any reason that there would be a fit issue? Thanks, Hookster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 I have an 11707 barrel assembly. It fits well. The only slight hang up is the lip on the barrel where it seats against the receiver. It catches slightly on the very front of the top rail. It fits fine, it just doesn't drop in un-impeded. I uaually apply pressure to the bottom of the top rail, and it flexes enough to slide past the protruding screws. I like the rail better than I was expecting. I was expecting a heavy nessisary evil for my lighting solution. True spec picatinny rails would be much better, but I can live with it how it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Thanks StrangerDanger, I enjoyed your previous detailed review of the SideArmor rail. How did things go with the mounting of the switch for the SureFire Scout go? Any Pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Thanks. I think the installation went very well. It's one of the most intuitive lighting setups I've used. I'm very happy with the Scout light. It's an extremely small lightweight package that packs a serious punch. Plus, 2 and a half hours of run-time is crazy. I've only been through 200 rounds since getting the light organized. I sold my magazine tube prematurely, so I'm waiting for the Titanium one to come in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Here is the momentary switch inside the grip after I cut it in. The rubberized grip simply slips off the pistol grip. It retains the momentary switch shown. I added some velcro to retain it in the pocket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 The top of the tape switch had to be cut under the visible portion of the pistol grip since not all of the momentary pad is actually pressure sensitive. Plus the wire protrudes out the top and is quite stiff. The pass through hole is half inch in diameter because that's how big around the Surefire connector is at the end of the wire. Sidearmor's shell carrier. The shells are retained by a spring loaded captive detent system. It works very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 The rail isn't true spec, but it's better than the factory o ne. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Plenty of hand clearance around mounted components. Factory handguards are a huge plus over some of the other aftermarket solutions. This project should be done this week when the tube gets here. I may switch to using a Blue Force Gear padded sling though. I haven't decided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duggan Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 The real question is, how are the 2 LaRue mounts holding up on the offspec rail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 I haven't fired it since I got the T-1 (no tube), but I did put the 200 rounds through it with the Scout mount. Most of it was low dram stuff, only a couple boxes of slugs to sight in my iron sights after I replaced them. I inspected the rail afterwards. I couldn't see any sign of movement or marring of the finish. I predict that if any of them are damaged, it will be the Scout light's mount since it weighs more. I snugged them up tight. Based on Mark's concept that they should be a pain to close, and a 'sumbitch to open. I also paid close attention to making sure the locking lug was seated against the lug when I closed the lever. This gives the mount nowhere to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Thanks for all the great pics. I think I'm going to get the SureFire Scout as well and then play around with the switch mounting and location. Question: Did you get the LaRue light mount because of a problem with the SureFire mount (either the thumbscrew or throw lever) working well on the SideArmor rail? Thanks, Hookster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duggan Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Thanks for all the great pics. I think I'm going to get the SureFire Scout as well and then play around with the switch mounting and location. Question: Did you get the LaRue light mount because of a problem with the SureFire mount (either the thumbscrew or throw lever) working well on the SideArmor rail? Thanks, Hookster LaRue mounts are generally bought for lights because they are quick detach and they are stronger and more convenient than dual thumbscrews which can break free and have to be torqued down to hold under stress. I highly doubt the stock mount had problems mounting, it is just not as good of a design, and thus had to go. That's my semi-educated guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 The stock mount is pretty wimpy compared to the LaRue mount. When you buy from LaRue, you get the stock mount also. I never liked thumb screws since most are usually designed poorly. Few offer a ratchetting type engagement like the magazine cap on your Benelli. Those teeth against the detent will retain the cap through just about anything. I'm a big fan of tool-less disassembly. Thumb screws always need some sort of driver to get them started or snugged up tight. Using the LaRue, you could move this light between several different weapons if you only have one light. When I bought mine from LaRue last month, they were around $405. Now they're $465 or so. That's the price for the light alone directly from Surefire. Sucks that the price went up since I need to buy another for my MRP. I have no experience with the offset mount that Surefire makes. I wonder if there would be enough clearance of the handguards to use one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 I've been looking at this SureFire Scout: http://www.surefire.com/M620C-ScoutLight It comes with their own throw lever mount which I'm sure would be of good quality like most of their stuff but I'm wondering how it'll do with an out of spec rail. The price is 525. but if it worked fine it would save me paying 400+ for the LaRue on top of the price of a LED Scout. Anyone with any experience with a SureFire throw lever mount? Hookster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 I think you misunderstood, or I read the post wrong. Look here: http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=165 This is for the light and the mount. It also has the standard Surefire mount. Not the offset. It comes with the 7" tape switch, tape switch cap and a cap that is a push button. One thing I noticed is the light will be seated further to the rear on your side rail with the offset mount. Also, how close the light is to the barrel will influence how much shadow is cast. Further back you go, much more shadowing will happen also. I'd need to see the bottom of the offset mount to tell how it would handle the out of spec rail. What makes it out of spec is the cut down the center of the rail. The way LaRue mount engages the rail, there is a metal block along the bottom of the mount that seats against the rail. The cut out sight groove of the rail offers less metal for the LaRue lug to engage. Duggan and Unobtainium damaged some LaRue mounts on the factory top rail. So I'm the guinea pig for the SideArmor rail. It has more metal to engage the lug than the stock top rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 Your right I did misunderstand. Thanks for the link thats what I'm looking for but I might go with the rail mount switch here: http://www.surefire.com/Remote-Dual-Switch-for-WeaponLight-SR07 and do something similar to Infidel's switch placement but I'll wait till I have the SideArmor set up on the gun and do some playing around with some of the tac lights and switches I have for my ARs Thanks Again, Hookster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I had that switch on the X300 and the XT07 switch block. Same as the one you linked. I really like the design. I felt it was a little harder to press than I would have liked. I felt the rail cover was too easy to knock off the rail too. I really liked the constant on button. I wish there was a way I could have added that to my pistol grip. But Surefire only offers that design with a 7" model. In my 2009 catalog, Surefire has some new switches coming out soon that are pretty nice. They offer one that will run your standard weapon light as a low output tasking light via one button, and full on on another. Then they had switch blocks that connected to two devices. So you could run a light/laser combo. There were a few others. I couldn't find them listed on their website. They have some new handheld lights coming out later this year that are extremely bright. They use the same tech as the X series and the Scout lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 the "easy to knock off" part doesn't sound too good. Here's another mount I found on the Magpul site you can use with the standard tape switch http://www.magpul.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76&products_id=221 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Easy might be an overstatement. But they bump off pretty easy. Easier than say a Magpul XT. Much easier. Given that the top edge isn't covered at all, it would be easy to knock loose. A sling would strip it off easy. So unless you mount the sling like where I did, you might run into issues. Maybe infidel could give you his opinion on it. Those pads work fairly well, but you loose the lock on feature. You can use many different lengths of switches with those STxx pads. I used the 40" for mine. I'd try the SR first. If you hate it, you can send it back. I did that several times until I got what I'm using now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 decisions, decisions I guess I'm in for a couple months of deep contemplation and trial & error (looking forward to it though) I'll post results as things progress. Thanks Again for all the great info I think it's already saving me some steps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 Hey StrangerDanger, One more SideArmor rail question: how does it seem to treat the guns finish where it comes in contact. BTW congrats on receiving your new tube. I just placed my order to Kip last night. Hookster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Thanks! I haven't taken the top rail off since installing it. I imagine it could be rubbing the black finish off under there. The top rail covers much more of the receiver than the factory rail. So there is a much larger footprint that conforms to the top perfectly. The factory rail has likely marred the finish on your receiver. I had marks from when I had the Mesa rail there. The finish on my M4 wasn't very good to begin with on the receiver. It always had a discolored look. You can see it in a few of my photos. You could hit the worn area with alumablack if you need to fix up the finish. I use it once in a while for deep scratches. I'm probably going to paint mine sometime in the next few months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 Thanks SD, I'm going to sleep on it one more night but I think I'll be ordering the SideArmor rail tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 You'll be glad you did. Start thinking about what side rails you need/want. It comes with one long rail. I went with two short rails. When you get it, you'll be amazed at how light it is and impressed by the machining along the bottom. Their photos on the site do not give it justice. The shell carrier they offer is pretty slick too. Much better than the Mesa or the horid Tacstar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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