First Hunt Questions

[RollTideRoll]

Going Pheasant hunting for the first time in a few weeks in northern ohio and just wondering besides stuff for staying warm is there any gear that is a must buy before I go.

 

 

Thanks a lot

 

RollTideRoll

[8 Shot M1 Super 90]

Good boots youve already broken in, a good front loading game vest (I lost a phesant this year that I thought I had put in my vest but had actually just put it inbetween my vest and my back) and a pair of chaps.

[timb99]

Brush cutter pants or a pair of chaps as noted above.

 

A coat and hunting vest that does not inhibit your ability to mount your gun.

 

Lots of orange. Vest, hat, coat. You want to be seen by your fellow hunters. In States where upland game is popular, "hunter shot while another hunter was swinging on game" is a common hunting accident.

 

Some sort of eye protection, if you don't normally wear glasses.

 

Good gloves that afford some protection against the cold, while also allowing good grip on your gun, and ability to get your finger on the trigger. Make sure the gloves will do all this when they are wet, too.

 

And before you go, get out and shoot some trap practice so you can hit those birds when you get an opportunity!

 

And remember all those things you learned in Hunter Ed! Do all the "do" things and don't do any of the "don't do" things.

[TMAC]

First time out, still in college, probably dont have too much cash to get stuff with.

Never fear; use an orange coat and hatfrom deer hunting, sacrifice an old pair of jeans to the brush, and forget the game back as a newbie you might get a buddy to haul your bird for you.

 

If you can afford the time to get out and shoot trap or skeet it will all help.

 

I just shot two birds on Saturday, its all good fun.

[RollTideRoll]

What type of ammunition should I buy? What is the difference in getting a 2 3/4" vs a 3" shell.

[Spike100]

What type of ammunition should I buy? What is the difference in getting a 2 3/4" vs a 3" shell.

Loads for shooting pheasants

 

If you are shooting a 20 gauge:

Lead Shot: 3” shell, 1 ¼ oz., 3 Dram EQ, #4 sized shot (lead)

Steel shot: Don’t shoot steel with a 20 gauge. If you must use steel, shoot a 12 gauge.

 

If you are shooting a 12 gauge:

Lead Shot: 2 ¾” shell, 1 ¼ oz., Dram EQ. 1500 fps, #6 or #5 sized shot

Steel Shot: 2 ¾” shell, 1 1/8 oz., Dram EQ. 1400 fps, #4 or #3 sized shot

 

Additional Notes:

- If you use alternative non-toxic “heavy” shot, I’m not sure, but I would probably go with the lead shot specifications above if the alternative shot is “soft.”

 

- You don’t need a 3” shell in a 12 gauge for pheasants.

 

- The choke should be modified (.016 to .018) or tighter (improved modified at .022-.024) when shooting lead or alternative-soft shot. For steel shot, improved cylinder (.012-.014) is OK, but don’t go tighter than modified (.016 to .018) when shooting steel shot.

 

- For a shot inside 40 yards, a modified choke with lead or improved cylinder with steel is deadly. If the shot is past this (maybe about 50-60 yards), you may need at least improved modified or even full with lead, or modified with steel.

 

--Spike

[8 Shot M1 Super 90]

I shoot reminton nitro phesant and am really happy with them, although they are a bit pricey and overkill (my uncle buys a flat each year and lets me shoot off of him for the few times a year I phesant hunt) my buddy shoots reminton sportsman (or somthing like that, its in a yellow and green box) and has plenty of knock down power. I use 2 3/4 #5 and have been for years. Ive never seen a reason to change. I also carry some 2 3/4 #7 1/2 incase we get into some quail. Good luck! I grew up phesant hunting and love it. We dont have any in my part of kansas, so I waterfowl, but phesant/upland is my first love.

[Spike100]

^^ It’s interesting that you mention carrying 7 ½ shot size when you get into some quail. I have done the same thing, but my result was poor since 7 ½ isn’t the right load for pheasants, and shooting 7 ½ shot size works best for quail, but only if you switch to an improved-cylinder (or even cylinder or skeet choke).

 

If I’m hunting in an area with potential shots on both pheasants and quail, I use a modified choke and #6 shot. #6 kills the pheasants and the quail, while #7 ½ cripples pheasants (at 35+ yards). Shooting quail with #6 shot and a modified choke certainly requires more precision, but it works and it’s definitely deadly.

 

Just a thought,

--Spike

[8 Shot M1 Super 90]

I only keep a few 7.5's on me just in case. Our quail numbers have been low the past few years, so we rarely bump into them. If we get into a few spots where we have had them before ill rack one out of the chamber and throw in a 7.5. That gives me one shot at them. I shoot a modified which makes the little guys difficult to hit, but not impossible and you certanly dont "need" a C or IC choke to hit them. First bird I ever shot was a pass shot on a quail with a modified choke in my 870 when I was 10...

[Spike100]

^^

Thanks for the reply and more detail.

 

My point is simply that a modified choke with #6 shot is very adequate for patterning on quail (or any upland game for that matter). In fact you don’t need to bother swapping out #6 (or even #5) for #7 ½ load for quail if you are shooting a modified choke.

 

You would need to go to a #7 ½ or smaller shot size if you are shooting an improved-cylinder or skeet choke.

 

--Spike

[8 Shot M1 Super 90]

Agreed about not having to swap out to smaller shot, i just prefer the smaller pellets as they dont tear up the meat as much as the larger #5's i shoot

[TMAC]

Those 5 shot kill em dead right now, break bones and not so many little bb's to pick out of your dinner. 5's are my favorite, and 6's get a close second place if thats all I have left.

 

I love that 1 1/4 oz 20ga 3" load, thats a real killer in my opinion.

[Spike100]

^^ You understand and obviously have shot a lot of wild birds. When eating game birds shot with 7 ½ loads, chew slowly, carefully, and gently since there will certainly be some lead in the bird the chef did not discover and remove. You’re looking at close to $1K for a crown if you break a tooth on shot when eating a game bird.

 

You mention shooting a 3” shell and 1 ¼ oz. #6 or #5 shot with a 20 gauge, and that is also a favorite for me as well. With this setup you are stuffing a lot of shot through a smaller bore. The result is a longer shot pattern that is also slightly tighter than you get with a 12 gauge at closer range (

 

3” shells with #6 shot through an IC choke and a 20 gauge is deadly for quail. If you are shooting in an area that provides a mixed bag opportunity (pheasant, quail, and/or grouse), you might want to use a modified choke. My preference for this type of hunting is a S/S with double triggers and choked IC/M or M/F, depending upon the range the birds are flushing. Double triggers allow instantly selecting the barrel equipped with the optimum choke and load.

 

--Spike

[Guest Terence]

this is nice info

[Guest skyline1241]

^^ It’s interesting that you mention carrying 7 ½ shot size when you get into some quail. I have done the same thing, but my result was poor since 7 ½ isn’t the right load for pheasants, and shooting 7 ½ shot size works best for quail, but only if you switch to an improved-cylinder (or even cylinder or skeet choke).

 

If I’m hunting in an area with potential shots on both pheasants and quail, I use a modified choke and #6 shot. #6 kills the pheasants and the quail, while #7 ½ cripples pheasants (at 35+ yards). Shooting quail with #6 shot and a modified choke certainly requires more precision, but it works and it’s definitely deadly.

 

Just a thought,

--Spike

I also think so.

[DanielEMccarty]

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