8 Shot M1 Super 90

Every gun will pattern a shell differently. The only thing for sure anyone can tell you is to shoot different shells through different chokes until you find what works best. There is no one shell/choke combo

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Like it says, I have a PSG style adjustable grip for an AR for sale. I used it a couple of times, but ended up selling the rifle. I believe it is a a Panther grip, but I dont know for sure. Id take 20 shipped for it.

I have no idea what the amount of heat would do to the barrel, so try this at your own risk. I worked as a mechanic for several years, and when we would get a stubborn bolt that would not break free (exhaust manifold bolts were the worse, many heat cycles and generally rusted all to ****) we would heat them up, then hold a candle (not lit)on the bolt, as close to the threads as we could. The wax would wick into the threads and help to remove stubborn bolts. Hope this helps ya

No problem Tide, just trying to pass on the information other people have helped me with. I still cant decide between number 2 or number 4 being more effective. Im really alright with using either one. I like the 4's because there is more shot in the cup, and will hold its velocity a little better to a further distance, but 2's will wad up a mallard quickly.

Agreed about not having to swap out to smaller shot, i just prefer the smaller pellets as they dont tear up the meat as much as the larger #5's i shoot

I only keep a few 7.5's on me just in case. Our quail numbers have been low the past few years, so we rarely bump into them. If we get into a few spots where we have had them before ill rack one out of the chamber and throw in a 7.5. That gives me one shot at them. I shoot a modified which makes the little guys difficult to hit, but not impossible and you certanly dont "need" a C or IC choke to hit them. First bird I ever shot was a pass shot on a quail with a modified choke in my 870 when I was 10...

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Dry-Plus174-Dri-Fowl8482-4-in-1-Wading-Jacket-Regular/725251.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dwading%2Bjacket%26x%3D0%26y%3D0&Ntt=wading+jacket

I shoot reminton nitro phesant and am really happy with them, although they are a bit pricey and overkill (my uncle buys a flat each year and lets me shoot off of him for the few times a year I phesant hunt) my buddy shoots reminton sportsman (or somthing like that, its in a yellow and green box) and has plenty of knock down power. I use 2 3/4 #5 and have been for years. Ive never seen a reason to change. I also carry some 2 3/4 #7 1/2 incase we get into some quail. Good luck! I grew up phesant hunting and love it. We dont have any in my part of kansas, so I waterfowl, but phesant/upland is my first love.

Read the reviews on the drake jackets on cabelas website and you will be looking elsewhere quickly. Im getting ready to get a Cabelas 4 in 1, and I have read so little that is negative towards it that I cant see many other choices that compare

Good boots youve already broken in, a good front loading game vest (I lost a phesant this year that I thought I had put in my vest but had actually just put it inbetween my vest and my back) and a pair of chaps.

I wouldnt toss your full choke. They are great for turkey hunting. All you need to know is if your gun is crio+ or standard benelli choke. After that the guys at the store should be able to help you. To get your choke out use a quarter in the slots of the choke. If it is threaded at the muzzle end, it is a standard benelli choke. If it has about 3/4 inch of tube after the threads then it is crio plus. YOU CANNOT MIX AND MATCH! Yes, they will screw into each other, but you run the risk of damaging the choke and barrel if you use the wrong choke. As far as goose hunting goes, yes, I use 3" bb and have always had it do the trick. I would recommend a cabellas choke if you are on a budget. They are made by carlsons and are an excelent choke to buy and are only around 30 bucks. If youve got more to spend, kicks high flyers are great. The nice thing about extended chokes are the ability to shoot tighter chokes with steel shot. Like I said before, the length of the choke has nothing to do with it throwing a better pattern, its in their design. Here is the setup I would run to hunt geese/ducks. Early Season ducks. Modified choke 3" number 4 shot Late season ducks. Modified choke 3" number 2 shot Both of these are good out to about 40 yards. Any more than that and you are gonna piss people off because you are a sky buster. Geese Improved modified 3 (or 3.5" but I really dont see any added benefit thats worth the extra cost) BB. This will be lethal out to about 50 yards. Once again, shots farther than that and you risk crippling the bird and being forever cursed as a sky buster. If youre gonna pull the trigger on them, make sure you are gonna kill em dead.

You realize that for the cost of the 3.5" you dont pick up any more velocity, and only gain a 1/16'th ounce of shot? Ive never seen the need for using 3.5's. We kill em just as effectivly with 2 3/4" shells. Like I said, good luck to you though... I would recommend a modified choke instead of what sounds like a tight goose choke, and I really dont see the benefit of rifling the choke, I almost think it would throw a worse pattern...follow my logic here. When using shot (instead of a slug) the shot cup usually peels away from the shot payload at about 15 yards. Given the laws of centrifugal force, if that shot cup were spinning once that shot cup peeled off the shot, that was contained is now uncontained and wanting to expand, where as shot that is not spinning because of no rifling will throw a denser pattern at a longer range because it does not have the external forces trying to pull it outwards. Be sure to pattern, pattern, pattern. Know how big that shot pattern is going to be at various ranges, shoot a ton of skeet and trap, learn your gun inside out before you go out and try to make long shots and end up just crippling game.

late season waterfowling is a whole different game than early season. Your location will make some of the things listed change, but for all around gear heres what I would recommend. Cabellas Waders with 800 gram thinsulate. A good blind bag to carry your gear. A 20 or so dollar double reed call to learn the basics. You do not NEED a 100 dollar call to sound good. A 20 dollar call in the hands of a good caller sounds leaps and bounds better than an expensive one in the hands of a crappy caller. Some decoys and an open mind. All we run are ghg hotbuys. There is a TON to learn about hunting ducks and geese, and dont be suprised if you have very limited success. I didnt shoot a single bird my entire first year of hunting

well, good for you, but I think you would have been better served patterning your choke tube that you got with your gun instead of running out and buying the first thing that caught your eye. Good luck to you.

If you are able to afford a new gun, id go that route, just because you get the 3 chokes, and warranty. If you cant afford this route, there isnt anything wrong with the nova. Its the same mechanicly as the super nova

And yes, you can shoot 2 3/4, 3, and 3.5"s out of your nova. I dont think you will need any recoil reducers, especially if you shoot 3" shells. If it becomes too much, a limbsaver will do you just fine. Good luck and remember, go pattern your gun with the factory chokes. Aftermarket chokes dont give any more reach than factory chokes, they just tend to pattern better, but if you are making a nice pattern with your factory chokes I wouldnt spend the money.

You cannot run steel shot through a factory full choke. With the factory chokes you can only run steel (any size) through cylinder, modified, and improved cylinder. Bismuth and all of the other heavy metal shot shell options are an attempt to re-create the balistic properties of lead in an eco friendly way. It is also incredibly expensive. Unless you are hunting waterfowl or hunting on a place that requires non toxic shot, just use lead. If you cant run lead, use steel, ive never had a problem killing what I was pointing at with steel. That being said, if you buy the nova/supernova yes, you can shoot 3.5" shells, but its always been my opinion that it is an answer to an un asked question. I can only shoot 2 3/4 and 3" shells out of my m1 and once again, have never had a problem killing what ive been pointing at. With a Carlsons modified choke Ive killed geese at 40 yards, and put down teal at 60, but I dont prefer to take long shots just because I dont like the retrieves. Id say get the nova/supernova and you will be happy with it. There are a bunch of aftermarket options on choke tubes, so that you could run a tighter choke with steel, but there really isnt much reason to shoot a full choke at waterfowl....youre either sky busting or throwing a softball at 1500+fps at what youre shooting, either way its a waste of game and an unethical way to hunt. Also remember that steel and lead pattern different, generally speaking with lead the chokes go as such... Skeet/Cylinder=up to 20 yds, Improved cylinder=up to 25 yards, modified=up to 35 yards, full=up to 45 yards. With steel Bump up 1 choke (Skeet lead=IC steel, Lead IC=Modified steel, lead modified=steel full)

Arent you supposed to sleep with it under your pillow?

Is it me or does it seem like there are a bunch more spammers on the site. Its been so long since i regestered I dont remember, is there any kind of recapcha or anything like that to get on the site?

Its incredibly easy to disassemble. Unscrew the magazine cap and remove the barrel and foregrip. Pull the charging handle out and the bolt assembly will slide right out. There is 1 pin holding the trigger assembly in. Drive it out and the trigger assembly will slide right out. Using a phillips head screwdriver with a little lube on it to remove the butt pad (the small holes in the pad are where you slide it in) Using a 13mm deepwell socket and an extention, you can then remove the nut that you will see inside the stock. Once that is done, slide the stock off and you should be good to go for refinishing the gun. Good luck!

**** you you piece of Canadian ****. Go find somewhere else to ask your questions and tell your pointless stories.

Did you not read what I took all of that time to type. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN YOUR GUN AND AN AUTOMATIC IS THAT IT REQUIRES INDIVIDUAL TRIGGER PULLS TO FIRE INDIVIDUAL BULLETS. NEITHER REQUIRE ANY MANIPULATION OF THE BOLT TO EJECT THE SPENT CASING AND CHAMBER A NEW ROUND, BUT AN AUTOMATIC WILL CONTINUE TO FIRE UNTIL THE TRIGGER IS RELEASED, WHERE AS A SEMI AUTOMATIC, LIKE YOUR GUN WILL ONLY FIRE ONE AT A TIME. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH WEIGHT! THE RUGER 10/22 FIRES A .22 CALIBER SHELL, THE M1 GARAND FIRES A 30-06, TWO GROSSLY DIFFERENT BULLET SIZES AND TO GROSSLY DIFFERENT GUN WEIGHTS, BUT THEY ARE BOTH SEMI AUTOMATIC. Sorry to the rest of the members for the all caps...apparently he cannot read lowercase fonts.

And grow up. You wont find much help with an attitude like that.