M1S90 poor cycling

[rc51kid]

I have a M1S90 that I purchased used. It was a police gun with a little cosmetic wear but nice and clean inside. I cleaned I well and lightly oiled it. I have shot around 75 rounds thought it and really like it. It runs great with everything except Winchester Ranger LE 00 buck. I know this is a light recoil load but it really seams like it should work. The gun just wont reliably eject the empty cases. It is strange to me that a “tactical” shotgun wont run on LE buckshot. Is there any chance that I need a lighter recoil spring? Is it possible that the department before me that owned it put a heavier spring in? does anyone have any suggestions of what I should try?

[R4 fan]

I had a M1 Super 90 years ago, and it ran sluggish sometimes. I would check and clean/lube the buttstock/recoil spring tube. My M1 always seemed to be a magnet for unburnt shotgun powder, that somehow found it's way into the tube!

 

Other than that, get a replacement spring and swap it out before you try anything else.

 

My rifle had no problems shooting the (reduced load) Federal tactical buckshot, slugs or whatever else I fed it. I only sold it out of stupidity, and never replaced it.

[MENeelz]

Do the easy stuff first.

 

Disassemble your shotgun down to the receiver and buffer tube.

 

Get a can of "Breakfree Gun Blast". Put the little tube on the spray nozzle.

 

Holding your receiver with the buffer tube end up, begin hosing the innards of the buffer tube liberally with the gun blast. Keep it up until it runs clear out of the receiver. Then do it once more just in case somebody put WD-40 or other stuff that turns to varnish or goo in there.

 

after the buffer tube quits dripping and dries out, spray just a little teflon based lube (Remington or similar) or break-free into it from the inside of the receiver and cycle the recoil spring plunger a few times with a dowel rod to spread the lube and feel that it's moving freely and that the only resistance is the spring.

 

 

 

 

[M1014]

you mentioned ejector,,so check your ejector first to see if it springs reward by pushing it with your finger,,does it look wore out at the end,,,loose at its base,,any other type of worness or damage .maybe this weapon was hardly fired so its never been broken in,,,oil the recoil tube and ejecter and then try it,,ex dept guns have tricky histories,,,so before your start tearing down the recoil tube,,look into how the rest of the weapon works.

[bullelk]

I am brand new to this site and have a question. I bought a new M1 S90 several years ago and have enjoyed using this wonderful gun a lot in goose fields, duck blinds and N.Dakota pheasant hunting. I always try to give it a good cleaning after each hunt. My manual shows a picture of the Recoil Spring Tube but nothing at all about the necessity for cleaning it. This thread mentions it. Is it necessary? How does one go about removing this tube or can it be cleaned without removal?

[MENeelz]

I am brand new to this site and have a question. I bought a new M1 S90 several years ago and have enjoyed using this wonderful gun a lot in goose fields, duck blinds and N.Dakota pheasant hunting. I always try to give it a good cleaning after each hunt. My manual shows a picture of the Recoil Spring Tube but nothing at all about the necessity for cleaning it. This thread mentions it. Is it necessary? How does one go about removing this tube or can it be cleaned without removal?

 

The following is for the M4 but should be similar for other Benellis.

 

I can't comment on whether it's necessary to clean out the buffer spring tube, but if you want to inspect it, here's how: (DO NOT remove the buffer spring tube from the receiver)

 

Disassemble the shotgun. (remove barrel and bolt, trigger assemby) and then remove the stock by unscrewing it. (once the trigger assembly is out, you can turn the stock on the buffer tube and simply unscrew it) You do not need to remove the recoil pad or disconnect anything at the butt end of the stock.

 

With the stock off, at the end of the buffer spring tube you will find an internal snap ring and under that a threaded plug. Remove the snap ring. Next find two small holes in the side of the buffer tube near the plug. Insert a small screwdriver bit or pin in one of the two so as to capture the spring. Then screw out the plug from the end of the tube. You should not need a tool to unscrew the plug. You should be able to unscrew it with the tip of your finger unless it's really gunked up or rusted. The plug is slotted for a wide bit screwdriver if needed.

 

As you remove the plug, keep ahold of whatever you used to capture the spring. Now put a shop towel over the end of the spring and grab the end that protrudes firmly then remove the capture tool while hanging on to the spring. It will try to come out rather forcefully so be prepared. Now invert the tube and the tappet that rides against the rear arm of the bolt will fall out. you can now clean out the innards of the tube, the spring and the tappet.

 

Reverse for reassembly after using a good lube, inserting the tappet first in the correct orientation. When reinserting the buffer spring, it helps to use a length of appropriate diameter dowel rod to keep the spring aligned while you shove it back into the buffer tube. Then use your capture tool again to hold most of the tension off while you start the threaded plug back in on top of the spring. Screw the plug to its original position, replace the snap ring and you're in business.

[MENeelz]

I am brand new to this site and have a question. I bought a new M1 S90 several years ago and have enjoyed using this wonderful gun a lot in goose fields, duck blinds and N.Dakota pheasant hunting. I always try to give it a good cleaning after each hunt. My manual shows a picture of the Recoil Spring Tube but nothing at all about the necessity for cleaning it. This thread mentions it. Is it necessary? How does one go about removing this tube or can it be cleaned without removal?

 

The following is for the M4 but should be similar for other Benellis.

 

Disassemble it (remove barrel and bolt, trigger assemby) and then remove the stock by unscrewing it. (once the trigger assembly is out, you can turn the stock on the buffer tube and unscrew it)

 

With the stock off, at the end of the buffer spring tube you will find an internal snap ring and under that a threaded plug. Remove the snap ring. Next find two small holes in the side of the buffer tube near the plug. Insert a small screwdriver bit or pin in one of the two so as to capture the spring. Then screw out the plug from the end of the tube. You should not need a tool to unscrew the plug. You should be able to unscrew it with the tip of your finger unless it's really gunked up or rusted. The plug is slotted for a wide bit screwdriver if needed.

 

As you remove the plug, keep ahold of whatever you used to capture the spring. Now put a shop towel over the end of the spring and grab the end that protrudes firmly then remove the capture tool while hanging on to the spring. It will try to come out rather forcefully so be prepared. Now invert the tube and the buffer spring plunger that rides against the rear arm of the bolt will fall out. you can now clean out the innards of the tube, the spring and the tappet.

 

Reverse for reassembly after using a good lube, inserting the plunger first in the correct orientation. When reinserting the buffer spring, it helps to use a length of appropriate diameter dowel rod to keep the spring aligned while you shove it back into the buffer tube. Then use your capture tool again to hold most of the tension off while you start the threaded plug back in on top of the spring. Screw the plug to its original position, replace the snap ring and you're in business.

[MENeelz]

Note: On the M1 Super 90, it looks like you do remove the stock retaining nut at the rear, then remove the screw stud that the nut is attached to. The plunger assembly is a bit more complex than for the M4 in that it has a damper spring and pin at the back end of the plunger.

 

Here's a schematic that should help: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?schemid=682&m=1&mn=Benelli+U.S.A.%c2%ae&model=Super+90+M1+Field+#84

[bullelk]

Thanks a lot for your response!

 

I will explore doing some sort of cleaning activity although I'm not sure it needs it.

 

I have noticed that after several days in the field the gun gets a little cranky in ejecting shells in that it still works but it seems to get a little slower.

[birdbrooks]

bullelk,

 

I've got a trusty M1S90 as well and haven't been the most diligent guy about that particular cleaning procedure, and you can get it away with not doin' it for a few seasons or so. It is worth getting in there and gittin 'er done...

 

Continued good luck hunting! Thanks too MENeelz for the great post---

Birdbrooks

[10Gauge]

bull,

 

you didn't mention if you were shooting 3" shells or not but lets assume you are and the folks who owned the gun before you shot a lot of 2-3/4".....I'd give the chamber a good cleaning with a chamber brush to make sure the 3" shells are not getting slowed down by some old powder and plastic residue!

 

i'd also check the recoil spring as others have indicated as well....good luck!

 

BTW - I don't know anything about the shells you are using but do you know if the shell is "skived" or smooth plastic? Some guns shoot smooth plastic better than "skived" or ribbed shells and other guns are just the opposite and this can be altered with a good chamber polishing!