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Everything posted by 10Gauge

  1. i like shooting deer with arrows so they die more slowly and in pain....usually several hundred yards from my treestand....where they leave little or no blood trail and I can't find them....this way the coyotes and black bears can survive the winter! seriously, im kinda envious of "tucker" or rather whatever state he lives in?!?! heck in ohio you cant even hunt ducks during the deer gun season....we can't even shoot deer with guns except for that 1 week in december or those 4 days of muzzy season in January!!! we have to use slugs ONLY, too (unless you use a handgun of legal caliber)!!! maybe this is why ohio has too many deer, the stupid hunting regulations are in favor of more bow hunting and less gun hunting??? here's a stupid ohio hunting law for you....it is legal to hunt coyotes during the deer gun season (all other game is off limits for 1 full week) but only if you have a valid deer tag and you are hunting with slugs only (or that legal handgun mentioned earlier). why can't i take a page from "tucker's" book and kill squirrels or grouse or rabbits or ducks while I'm deer hunting with slugs? i can do it with a slug, too! why just limit me to coyotes? i hate the taste of coyote! personally, i don't care what a guy uses to hunt with or what he wants to hunt! ethics are in the mind of the believer...i know lots of coon hunters with trophy bucks hanging on their wall and none of these guys hunt in the daytime or with anything larger than a .22 mag! speaking of rifles, i think rifles of certain calibers should be legal for deer in ohio but because of the society we live in today they probably never will be legal for deer! however, I can go out and hunt coyotes or ground hogs with a .308 anytime of the year (except deer gun week!) here in Ohio but apparently the .308 is WAY too deadly or dangerous during deer season?!?! I'd suggest to the ODNR that they establish a deer rifle season and only those who can pass a marksmanship and written test be allowed to hunt with a rifle...this would weedout those "goobers" and we got plenty of them "goobers" in Ohio, too! congrats on the deer tucker and don't chip a tooth while eating that deer sausage.
  2. it's the benelli "auto-loader" curse...they will ALL do this to you sooner or later, M1's, SBE's 12 ga or 20ga...it don't matter! it usually happens when you pull the trigger on that 26# Gobbler at 12 yards...or when you are in the duck blind with your buddies braggin 'bout this great benelli shotgun you own! I own 3 Benelli's right now...an older M1 in 20ga, a SBE & SBEII (12's)....they have ALL done this at one time or another. Sold a Benelli Sporting Clays gun because of this problem back in 2000...during some competition shoots a "misfire" is scored as a missed bird and can cost you dearly in competition so I went back to my Beretta's for SC shoots! someone ahead of me has already explained the problem...the bolt isn't closing completely in most cases and this can happen when the gun cycles on it's own or when one doesn't let the bolt "slam" shut upon loading the gun...mostly happens in the second scenario! benelli will tell you it is "operator error" in 99.9% of the dreaded "click" cases rear their ugly head. watched a turkey show last year where the host was using a benelli and right on camera he "clicked" on a BIG gobbler! LMAO, because it happened to my son with the M1 on a turkey in 2004 we just didn't have it on camera! My SBE slug gun "clicked" on me during a deer drive this month in the rain...fired 3 slugs at running deer, reloaded and a doe steps into my shooting lane broadside standing perfectly still (a dead deer is what I'm thinking) and "click" the dreaded Benelli curse strikes again! Like the original poster, my gun was very wet that day so perhaps moisture has an effect on the bolt closing everytime?!?!
  3. as tucker mentioned Gander Mountain offers this service, too and more than likely they send it out to someone to apply the finish??? the finish is actually applied using a "film" that gets transfered to the gun parts when they are "dipped" into the "film" the color and pattern adhere to the gun surfaces. wood can be "dipped" but it may require a primer to get the "film" to adhere properly...even some synthetic pieces are primed to get a good adhesion. that's my 2 cents...
  4. looks like a deadly combination....
  5. that's good stuff mudhen....thanks for sharing! I'm still working on my first 100....but I only hunt 3 states! LOL
  6. it is purdy fancy........
  7. HH, I don't own a M2 but I do turkey hunt with a M1 (S90) in 20 gauge. After adding a good set of rifle sites I was able to adjust my point of impact (POI) as needed....mine shot a bit high out of the box with a bead site! All of my turkey rigs have "rifle sites" or optics since very few shotguns, regardless of the maker, will shoot to the same POI for every shooter....sometimes its a simple matter of gun fit rather than a mis-aligned barrel. I have seen guns that came from the factory with terrible choke tube alignment, I would have a gunsmith check this before I would "bend" a barrel. buy the M2 (and a good turkey site) take her to the range and go crazy! my two cents, Jeff in SW Ohio
  8. what chad said.......why do you completely remove your sling when turkey hunting? I'm just curious? Jeff in SW Ohio
  9. M1014, WOW....I wish those were under my Christmas tree....my stocking is too small for these beauties!!! Jeff in SW Ohio
  10. isk, see my reply to your post "Choke too tight"........which choke tube and constriction is highly dependant on the size and type of ammo you will shoot. Chad also gave you some very good advice in this post. Jeff in SW Ohio
  11. isk, i'm sure you have already heard this from someone but the choke you select really depends on the shot size you intend to choose. Example the .640" choke will more than likely pattern best with #7.5 or even #8 lead shot! Let's assume you want to shoot #6 or #5 copper plated buffered shot for Turkey hunting...I would lean toward a .660" or .665". Maybe you want to use Heavy Shot or another brand of "heavier than lead" Turkey loads in #6, my recommendation would be to consider a .670" or .675" choke. finally, I prefer an extended ported choke personally and one of my favorites in my Benelli SBE and SuperNova is a Kicks GT but it really depends on which ammo I shoot as to which patterns best. i also agree with Chad, many of those under $25 turkey chokes work very well, the undertakers, tightwads and some of the best chokes i've found were Carlson XF and XXF that were sold at close-out prices for under $20 at Cabela's! thats my two cents.... Jeff in SW Ohio
  12. .....the turkey rigs I have in my gun safe!
  13. ks, post it on ebay......
  14. its probably been a year or more since my last visit to this forum and it's nice to see everyone is still good friends! i don't know "mudhen" personally but he has always given a lot of good sound advice on this forum and I agree with him when it comes to a "second" shot. Misses or injuries can happen no matter how good you THINK you are and even at a so called stationary target like a wild turkey! I have killed Turkey's with a TC Encore, a SBEII, a SuperNova, an old Browning A5, a Winchester Model 37 16 gauge, Browning Gold 10ga, Hunter Arms 16 ga SxS, Beretta O/U...you name it and I'm sure my friends call me foolish because I own about 10 different Turkey rigs. Personally, I don't think you can own too many shotguns whether they are "Turkey" guns or plain old field guns! this threaded started with a basic question SBE II or SuperNova and after readying it entirely it seems maybe the person starting the thread needs an excuse to buy a SuperNove! I say buy what ever you want and make it a Turkey rig! I actually turned one of my SBE Slug guns into an SBE 1.5 Turkey Rig...I purchased a SBEII barrel complete with choke tubes, purchased a Benelli Steady Grip stock and mounted a Nikon Monarch "turkey reticle" scope on it. My buddies call it "Frankenstein" because it has 3 different camo patterns and a matte black scope! I call it an SBE 1.5 because it has parts from both Benelli's...a Hybrid if you will....She is UGLY but smokes turkeys with a Kick's GT and my own nickle plated loads. That's my 2 cents! Jeff
  15. .....there I said it! i can't spell either........
  16. i'm hoping to be in TN on 3/29 and KY 4/14 and OH late April......I was hoping to find a place in Texas last week but it was a bust! maybe next year??? good luck to you luck bass turds who will be hunting before me this month!
  17. Mud, how was your trip to Ohio last weekend??? I agree 100% with your "fall apart at 38-40 yds" statement and this has been what I have seen with every 12 gauge/choke/load combo I own or have tested for others! I also think more people should look at that gun/choke combo pattern at 20 yds, too....they might get a shock or at least understand why that gobbler ran away when they missed at 15 yds because the pattern was soooooo tight. I won't go into a lot of boring detail but in the 1950's some research on loads/chokes were tested extensively at 10yds and they counted pellets outside the 10" circle to determine pattern efficency with surprising accuracy.....saves a bunch of walking if you are shooting 1000 or more patterns in an afternoon! The biggest thing you and I disagree on is whether "most" turkey hunters are smart enough to see past the text on the choke package! The veteran hunters, i say yes.......but these novices or newbies to the sport hear they can get 300 pellets in a 10" circle @ 40yds with XYZ shells & ABC choke are buying into that nonsense without testing on a pattern board or even looking at penetration......don't get me started on the poor penetration of those #7's at 40yds in those Triplex loads! Testing should be 3 dimensional and a pattern is only 2/3rds of the puzzle. I admit the first test I do with a new choke or new load is the 40 yd pattern....then I move in or out and test for limitations or ideal distance. As a reloader I have produced loads that are "ideal" out to 25 yds on clays or quail and other loads that are "ideal" at 50-60 yds on geese but these are not loads I would want to shoot turkey's with at 35 yards. I think you understand this concept better than most people because you pattern your guns and your a waterfowler as well as a turkey hunter! Unfortunately, some people don't get it and perhaps they don't care to get it either?!?!
  18. sounds like your gun/choke combo likes #6 shot! the answer to the question #5 vs #6 is basically answered by the distance one is shooting...5's kill at longer distance than 6's....mudhen or someone else mentioned this in their reply. this is true whether you are shooting steel, lead or tungsten.....the distance at which each of these materials are lethal in say a #5 shot will be different but the bottomline is a #4 has greater energy than a #5 and a #5 more than a #6. However, I'd tell the guys at work to let your gun/choke combo tell you which shot patterns best and if it is #6 Hevi-13 you should be able to kill turkey's beyond 45yds if you have too! With Federal (lead) I'd keep my shots under 40yds. BTW - #4's & #5's shoot well from my 10 gauge, one of my favorite reloads is a 2-1/2 oz triplex (4X5X6) load of copper plated lead using 1-1/2 oz of 4's, 1/2 oz each of 5's & 6's and buffered. This load is a beast out of a .690" Rhino ported choke!
  19. SK, I set up my M1S90 for my son back in 2003 and tested two choke tubes then a Primo's TightWad (.570") & the UndertakerHS (.575") both preformed well to 35 yards using Federal 1-1/8 oz or #6 in a 3" Magnum Turkey Load (lead). In 2004 we tested the Remington Premier Hevi-Shot Magnum 1-1/4 oz of #6's also a 3" shell and it did very well with the UndertakerHS choke. In 2006 we tested Environmetal's Hevi-Shot 1-1/4 oz of #6's and they too patterned well with the UndertakerHS. I selected these chokes because they were inexpensive and they were easy to come by....in 2003 & 2004 there wasn't a lot of 20 gauge turkey chokes to choose from. Today, you'll find more selection i'm sure! For the most part my M1S90 20 bore seems to shoot #6 better than #5 but if you try a slightly larger dia. choke the #5's may do as well as the #6's???
  20. mud, i had a lot of time on my hands working a trade show in Houston Texas the weekend I scribed this mess.........so my appologies if it didn't make much sense to you and others! I also agree with NK, I too pattern ALL of my guns at 10, 20, 30 and 35 yds with respect to upland & turkey loads. I've patterned my 10 gauge at 50, 60 and 70 yards for waterfowl, too! It seems the point of my post was missed.......or maybe it was the beer I was drinking that fogged my brain and diminished my words.......but the bottomline in patterning for ANY choke for ANY game for ANY gun (except .410's) is 40 Yards. Personally, I think 40 Yds is great on flying targets (and clays birds, too) but I don't think it should be the standard for a turkey gun/choke/load! Yet, everybody who heads out to pattern their new turkey choke are looking at 40 yds and pellet count per 10" circle....frankly, i'm more impressed with pellet count inside 3" circles and no "holes" bigger than 1.5" in the pattern out to a 20" circle at a "realistic" turkey distance of 25-30 yds. Yep, I still "test" at 40 using a 10" circle, too but IMHO that should not be the std for a turkey pattern. that's my rant......btw- i'll be testing some new loads any day now, still waiting for some better weather here in ohio! when i do i'll post some pics of 40 yard patterns!
  21. I ask this question as it relates to patterning a turkey gun, please read the following before answering; I've been patterning shotguns for over 35 years and turkey hunting almost 20 years now and everytime I go to the pattern board before spring turkey season I just chuckle! Over the years I've read dozens of books on the subject of shotgun patterning, some that date back to the 1920's, and frankly none of them cover "turkey patterns" and I suppose that is because our sport is young compared to waterfowl or upland game hunting. 40 yards and a 30" diameter circle have been an "industry standard" since the first shotgun barrel was "choked" in 1870....prior to 1870 shotguns were cylinder bore from breech to muzzle for the most part! a pattern percentage system was put into place to determine full, modified, imp cyl and cyl chokes or 70, 60, 50 and 40 percent respectfully. This method (30" @ 40yds) is ideal for waterfowl, upland and clay targets....anything that is "flying"! In fact, a lot of waterfowlers shoot "flying" birds at 40 to 50 yards on a routine basis but are turkey hunters going to those distances regularly. If you watch a lot of turkey hunting shows or video's they are inside 20 yards nearly 90% of the time! The NWTF and their "Turkey Hunting Safety Task Force" ironically determined that 40 yards is the maximum distance or range to ethically and cleanly kill a turkey with a shotgun. these are their words not mine, so don't flame me on this one! In addition, the NWTF has suggested that ANY turkey combo (gun, choke, load) that can place 100 pellets inside 10"dia @ 40 yards is an "ideal pattern" for turkey hunting. Adding an internal ring or diameter to the 30" circle was also done decades ago but most shotgunners used a 20" internal circle rather than a 10", the smaller diameter came about by those seeking a center dense "turkey pattern". Surely the NWTF isn't suggesting that a 28, 20, 16, 12 or 10 ga are ALL capable of putting 100 pellets in a 10" circle and ALL are capable of killing turkeys @ 40yds?!?! (you don't have to answer that, i'm just poking fun at our friends at the NWTF) So back to my original question.....what's so magical about 40 yards? 1.) Is it because we use 40yds from the "industry standard" derived to measure shotgun choke percentages? 2.) Is it because someone said it was the "effective killing range" for turkey hunting? 3.) Is it because as American's we think "bigger is better" or "further is better"? 4.) Is it because the ammo industry wants to sell us more and more ammo to test each year in search for the ultimate "pattern"? I think the answer is #1 and we've fallen into the trap of "pattern percentages" not "pattern density" or uniformity at a distance in which most turkeys will be harvested! The turkey shotgun is used much differently than any other shotgun in the hunting and sporting world. We aim turkey guns at a relatively small target (neck/head) much like a rifle and ALL turkey combo's (gun, choke, load) in 12 or 20 ga suffer from inaccuracy, pattern patchyness and poor pattern repeatability at distances beyond 35 yards so why do we spend so much time and money trying to find that magical 40 yd combo???? Okay, maybe it's number 4!
  22. i was wondering why this guy decided to use 45 yards and a 8" diameter circle to do his patterning? for decades i've patterned at 40yds using the 30" diameter circle method for various reasons (waterfowl, upland and sporting clays). Using this tried and true method of determing "pattern efficiency" (number of holes inside 30"dia divided by number of pellets in the shot charge) has served many a bird hunter for over 100 years to determine what kind of pattern their gun is capable of. However, in the last couple of years i've tested turkey combos (gun, choke, load) at 35yds using an 8" circle method. personally, i think patterning a turkey gun should be done differently than we pattern guns for other shotgun sports. Why? Because we don't shoot turkey's like we do other game....we use the shotgun more like a rifle (we aim it) for turkey and the turkey head/neck is the smallest target compared to other game that the shotgun is used for! Turkey combo's should be about center density but most hunters have been convinced by folks like the NWTF that 100 pellets inside a 10" diameter circle at 40 yards is a proper turkey "killer". Since most shooters are using the 10" @ 40yd method it's always a very good idea to make certain you take this into consideration when comparing data!
  23. loco, try ebay every once in a while you can find a "black" SteadyGrip. I just picked one up in Max4 camo for my SuperNova for $88.00 like new in the factory box....new they retail for $150! Just don't get in a rush, it took me nearly a month before I got the deal I wanted. In addition I picked up a "camo" factory mag tube for less than $40...wrong camo but it works!
  24. Thanks Mud, the SN uses the same stock as the SBE2 so I might have the same issues you had.....I just have not shot mine yet to know. If I had a shim kit for my SN I'd try changing them and measure the drop to see if anything changed....but since I got my SN used I didn't get the shim kit. The ComforTech stock made me wonder about shim adjustment having little effect since Benelli put interchangable combs on this stock. Maybe the higher bib led them to this mod?
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