Leaderboard

OMG what an ammo eater. This thing spit shells fast. I ran a few different ammo types through it fairly fast. 5 different targets, fast trigger pulls 5 for 5. I was singing. You're as smooth as Tennessee whiskey You're as sweet as strawberry wine... Bottom line, worth every penny. I paid GB pricing buy it now, still worth it.

SD, that is one of the best write-ups I've seen on the various models; even better than I have seen from Benelli themselves.

A red dot on a pistol is more accurate than iron sights. The typical complaint people have with them is "finding the dot". This is simply a case of not doing enough dry fire practice. If you practice enough, you should be able to bring the gun up from the holster with your eyes closed and open them to see your dot in the window. When I first started to practice, I found that the dot was too low. I trained myself to bring the nose of the gun up by pulling up on my strong hand wrist. With practice, this is now my natural draw. Good luck.

Glad I could help. I think we charged 60 bucks with return shipping? First step is to remove your buttpad via the two small holes in the rubber pad with a Philips screw driver. Put a little oil or spit on the holes and the screw driver will press in to it without harm. Feel for the driver to index with the hidden screws within. Without having a second 3/8” nut, it would be a nightmare to do the job. You’ll be able to get it apart, but you’ll get stuck on the reassembly. I remove the existing nut with a little heat from a MAPP torch on low flame. These nuts have a nylock polymer insert that helps keep them in place. They should be a one time use item, but you can use them a few times without any real concern. You’ll want a deep socket 3/8” wrench so it will seat over the center shaft that protrudes out through the top of the 3/8” nut. Then install that 3/8” nut on the opposite side tight. This is the tapered end that screws in to the receiver extension as you screw the stock on. You don’t need retard strength; but you want enough torque on it so you can unscrew the center shaft without the nut coming loose on you. This gives you a way to grab the center shaft and apply torque to it. Then I apply more heat to that tomb stone shaped plate. I then unscrew the center shaft via the 3/8” nut from the receiver side of the stock. This is why it has to be on tight. If the threadlocker hasn’t broken down enough, the nut will unscrew instead of the entire center shaft from the tomb stone plate. You watch the end of the stock to see if the shaft is turning. Once the tombstone comes free, you have a stack of spring washers on the shaft. I use a long poker to press against the center shaft then tilt the stock so the washers fall on to the poker in the correct order and arrangement the factory sent them in. If I recall, there are 8 of them and they’re all identical. Each one is concave and you stack them so each two’s dish shaped concave faces each other. Now the center shaft can be removed from the front of the stock since the nut will still be in place. Now you can pull the sling plate out the side of the stock. Wire brush the threads of the center shank and tomb stone plate to clean off the factory threadlocker. Coat the threads with Locktite primer if you want to be fancy. Now for reassembly, you insert your sling plate through the side of the stock in the orientation desired. Then insert the center shaft through from the receiver side of the stock. You should still have your 3/8” nut in place since for all purposes, it’s stuck and there isn’t anything to grab on to with a vice to remove it. This doesn’t matter at this point anyway. With the center shaft in place and held there by your ratchet with a deep 3/8” socket, place the spring washer stack back on the center shank from the rear of the stock. Now reinstall the tomb stone plate and use your socket wrench to screw the center shaft back in to the tombstone tight. There is only one orientation that the tombstone plate will fit. I apply red locktite to the threads that interface with the tombstone plate and the final factory position of the 3/8” nut. You do not want threadlocker on the tapered side of the center shaft that screws in to the receiver extension. Now, install your second 3/8” nut on to the end of the center shaft tightly. With this new nut in place, it will hold the center shank in place so that you can now unscrew your original 3/8” nut that is currently on the tapered side of the shaft. Reinstall your buttpad and you’re good to go. It’s all about being able to apply leverage where you need it. Thank for local Italian engineer for over complicated design. Or you can send it to me! It takes me more time to tape up the box and print the shipping label than the job itself.