Benelligunny

Yes it is a stamped out part and they rarely break. Seen thousands of Benellis through my hands and the factory one for the SBE and M4 are different lengths, just different finish. That is why you'll have to have one for an SBE/SBEII (same thing) 3.5" shell. The 3" guns use shorter ones. Yes it is very simple, roll pin out, roll pin in and watch your spring placement. 3/32" punch if you need to know. Actually most roll pins break from wear (about 4000 to 7000 rounds) before the latch ever gives any. Seen some break if the trigger assembly was put in incorrectly and people try to "hammer" the bolt release closed.

Sorry, I goofed! Fingers outran my brain...The long pad used to be on the short stock so the tall people could not get the longer LOP. Stocks are longer now so the advertised LOP's can be achieved. Us short folks will be just fine (5'4'' and have no issues here). I do not have a SN cutoff.

Try to make this short...someone in Italy was not paying attention to detail. Initially, all the SBEII, M2's had the long pad on them. It just happened to be that the long pad was on the long stock. So, if someone tall wanted a longer LOP, they couldnt get it. Finally someone woke up, after enough complaints and realized...WOW I guess us Italians aren't gods! We goofed! We will have to make the stock longer so the 3 LOP's we advertise can be achieved. This changed about 1 to 1 1/2 years ago. Now the new stocks are longer with the shorter, middle length pad (to keep the std LOP) and it CAN be made longer or shorter as one may need. Hope this helps.

The tube to receiver fitting does have loctite on it, about a 271 type, but if it is a newer gun you should have 2 flats on the far end of the tube. If this is correct all you have to do is use the appropriate wrench or an adjustable to remove it, there is no loctite on that end. That "nut" on the end is like a nylon lock nut but it's a nylon lock screw. There is a witness mark on the side of it where the cap and tube contact. Just make sure the marks line up when you tighten it back down as this sets the barrel spacing. I suggest putting the receiver in a padded vise instead of the tube itself to keep from crimping the tube. Hope this helps.

Depends on when it was made. Very early models from chantilly or sterling only used 2 (one wavy, one flat). After that point they all used 4 (flat, wavy, flat, retainer). Now if you have a sure-fire or other worn out forend light that was purchased from a used police auction, please keep in mind that most of these can be broken and depending on how worn out it is depends on how many washers they may have used to tighten it up. Personally I dont like them. They're heavy, break easily and hardly ever fit right. I'd rather use a hand held light. When the "real scenario" happens trust me, using that light will be the last thing on your mind. I've never been in a situation when it would have come in handy.

Are you ready for this??? There aint no screws that hold the Ultralight recoil pad on. It's a clip on pad. Place a thin screwdriver between the plastic on the pad and the stock and pry it off. Let me know how this works. The screws in the diagram are anchors for the clips in the pad ( you will see this once you get the pad off).

This is something you can do yourself. Simply clean all grease and oil from the threads (must be void of any oils), make sure they screw together easily and flush. Take them back apart and apply Loctite 271 to the threads. Screw it back together, loctite does not set up quickly and reassemble the barrel on to the receiver without the forend, snug up the mag cap and check barrel alignment by looking down the rib as if you were shooting it. If the rib is crooked then straighten it by turning the barrel slightly. Once aligned, tighten the mag cap securely (check alignment again) and let it sit for about an hour. Job done.

You can trim about 8 inches from the magazine spring and it will still feed fine. Yes, the spring is too strong and your diagnosis is correct. Dont put snap caps in the magazine, they may get stuck. Just make sure you put the trimmed end of the spring in first. If this doesnt correct it then I would contact CS.

Sending you a private message.

I would suggest looking for a barrel for an M1 Practical 26". If you cannot find one I may be able to help you. Check and look online to see if this will suit your needs.

It's just a roll pin and it will be just fine. Probably where it was pounded in and took part of a layer off. It will still hold, looks like it's all the way through anyway. If you find it unsightly you could use a small file and clean the outside part off.

Suggest using the WinAA Heavy Target load as this is a 3.5" gun and the SV does not like a moderate load in 2 3/4".

I agree with the previous post. Most any of the "Tactical" or reduced recoil buck wheather it's Fed or Win will not cycle the action reliably this being a Mil-Spec gun. WinAA Heavy Target for birdshot or any standard 3" load. They dont kick bad anyhow in this gun being gas operated.

There will be an NRA Short Summer course offered through Montgomery Community College June 11-15 2012. This class will be taught by a BenelliUSA gunsmith from the warranty repair facility in Pocomoke, MD. The class will cover the more detailed function and repair processes of theBenelliUSA and Stoeger Industries brands of shotguns. This is not a certification class nor will it make you a certified Benelli armorer. It wouldbe great to help ramp up your business as far as being able to better service your customers and will also be enjoyable for the local gunsmith. A more detailed course description, registration and toollist can be found at www.montgomery.edu and looking for the NRA Courses tab. The poster of this thread is the instructor of this class. Any direct questions about this course can be posted here and I'll be happy to answer them.