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Everything posted by Benelligunny

  1. Back in the 80's there was a different choke. It was like a Franchoke but was not the Franchoke. It had an interrupted thread so the top of the choke had no threads for about 3/16". I know either Carlsons or Briley make a special run of these older style chokes about once a year. You could call and find out. Maybe someone on here has a very old Benelli they could post a picture of their old choke tube for you.
  2. Rare to have the 20ga double feed. Sometimes the mag spring is way too strong and can force a shell past the latch. Suggest cutting about 6" from the mag spring and try it again. If it still does it then the shell latch/bolt release could have already been damaged if it's the newer 2 piece latch. For the heck of it, check the drop lever spring to make sure it's still hooked over the drop lever, that will cause it also.
  3. The crio chokes in your older Cordoba you will never see again. Yes, a new barrel will fit the older gun with no problem. It was a mistake from the factory to use those threads and were only in the first couple of hundred guns. No guns or extra barrels were made like that after. So yes, if the barrel you buy is less than 10 years old, your M2 and new Cordoba barrel will have the same chokes. Do not ever switch the chokes between the older and newer Cordoba barrels.
  4. You mean the extractor? If so, it goes from the top down. Use a 1/16" punch. It's a half blind pin so be careful pushing it out. Angle the top of the pin rearward like you're pushing forward while hitting the punch. I also leave the bolt fully assembled while doing this, the bolt body and locking head pin act like a vise to hold the locking head still while it's being hit. The act of doing this will bend the punch slightly so use a quality punch like Starrett. The cheap ones may break off in it while it's in there.
  5. Never attempt to remove the trigger assembly with the top lever open. This will cause a serious jam. If it was not open and just the strikers were out, remove the floating breech per the instructions in the manual , the get the trigger assembly back in place as best as possible and go through the front with a punch or something and push the strikers back in place. Always push the top lever release button on the front of the receiver (near the top lever) before removing the trigger assembly. As always, don't force it or break it. You're not the first to do this. Send it to us if you can't get it and we'll get it out and back in properly.
  6. It all looks good. I've never seen a piston seeger. Are you in Canada or the US? And yes, tighten the barrel nut (has the large spring on it) until it stops completely, not until you just think it's tight enough. No torque needed, just until it stops dead. This is what holds the gas system and barrel in place. Use a 1/4" punch in one of the holes and crank on it if you have to.
  7. The forend lug on the barrel that the forend attaches to is where to look. It has a small set screw on the bottom and a larger adjustment screw. The allen wrenches to do this are in the accessory box. Loosen the small set screw then turn the larger screw either by finger or wrench (through the backside). ONLY 1/2 turn at a time. Towards the muzzle to loosen it, towards the breech to tighten. When the desired tension is achieved, remember to tighten the set screw. Not too loose as this will cause malfunctions.
  8. New red plastic Benelli limiter plug. Works on 12ga M1, M2, SBE 123. Part #80094.
  9. Yeah, the carrier dog (breech bolt latch) plunger is stuck in the trigger guard. Could have some rust or sand in it. Put some oil on it and pop it with a hammer and punch a few times. Seen a few where the plastic guard was too tight on the plunger.
  10. Nothing that can be repaired at home. It will have to go in for service. Do it now while the wait time is low.
  11. I'm quite sure it's something else. There is a short action adapter in the back of the action that is held in by the trigger assembly. make sure this is there. It should be removed for a long action barrel and the short action won't work if it's not there. Ammo sounds fine. Cleaning sounds good. One thing has happened in the past. I have seen a few short action guns with long action bolts in them. We don't even have a separate part for this but I've seen them...they do exist. The long action bolt locking mechanism "lock notch" on the bolt may be too far forward so when the shorter action comes back, it can't lock. Works manually but not automatically. Could be a weak spring on the bolt locking mechanism. I'll try to get you some pics if I can or at least some measurements. I don't know which version of the gas system you have without seeing it. There have been three. Do you have to indicate the barrel nut on the gun and line up the dots? Is the barrel nut just a gold color or black? Does the barrel nut have a check valve in it? If it is gold and has no check valve that would be good. In any case except the first version the barrel nut should be tightened until it stops, always. I know the Italian translation is hard to understand but that is when it means. If the barrel nut is not tight the gun won't work properly.
  12. Yes it can be but the majority of the internals must be removed to get to the safety and it's a pain to get out if you're not familiar with it.
  13. Actually I have never seen this piece in any R1 before so I have no reference for it. Of all the gas systems I have replaced, none of them have any rubber dampeners in them. I would like to see a picture of what you're talking about. Is the rifle all original or have you changed barrel/calibers? Also info on ammo brand and cleaning you might have done.
  14. It probably is too short but if you find a local gunsmith that is good with custom fitting recoil pads and pad extensions it shouldn't be a problem. Quick cheap fix is to leave the factory pad on and put a 1" slip on pad over it to see if it fits you better. You should be able to find them at most gun stores or order online.
  15. There is not one but you can call CS and give them the item number and serial number of your gun and they will tell you.
  16. If the end of the recoil assembly is SS then no, there is no Loctite and it's just a nylon lock screw. If the end is blued then yes, it has Loctite and will have to be heated. If it is dusty red and cankered with rust, good luck, it should have been done a lot sooner.
  17. Just an FYI. All of the Benelli sights are threaded the same. Smallest (SBE, SBE II, M1, M2, M3), medium size (Vinci, S Vinci), largest (Nova, S Nova). Same thread on current Stoegers and Franchi's as well.
  18. Good pictures and stuff but why so overcomplicated on the reassembly? I've done countless Monte's and Legacy's but never anything like that. I can have one off, cleaned and back together in 10 minutes. Witness mark is not a good idea. The mag tube may be loose. Factory setting is that the mag tube be tightened until it stops.
  19. Yes, the thread is the same.
  20. One thing I haven't seen anyone write is about cleaning the bore. Benelli barrels have a tendency to lead up pretty bad and heavy leading will greatly effect accuracy. I have shown many people to use the Hoppes Tornado brush to remove lead, plastic fouling from the bore. Take the barrel off, start from the chamber end and scrub the **** out of it. Use it dry, without solvent. If you use solvent or oil it decreases the friction and won't work as well. No, it won't hurt the bore but it will give you a workout. I have a personal custom made 18" SBE Tactical barrel I made, cut off, no choke, M1/M4 style GR sight set up and use Fed 1oz rifled slugs. Still keeps them in a 6" at 100 but most shots I make with it when I hunt are under 50 yards. BTW, makes a **** of a fireball with 3 1/2" buckshot.
  21. Never seen a bore snake remove compacted lead.
  22. Haven't tried it but probably not. The corners of the Nova are rounded and the corners of the S Nova are squared off.
  23. My personal favorites are the handguns that are firing with the slides locked back. That being said...Tom Sizemore used an M3 in the movie HEAT. Drive in theatre scene. Think I'll go lower my IQ on watching the Raven Mocker Returns.
  24. I would have to think that something is wrong then. I have worked on many of these and never seen a broken locking head pin on an R1. Make sure it is for an R1 as they are different from the shotgun locking head pins. Check the number on the locking head and make sure it corresponds to the one on the barrel. There should be a plastic, forked looking block in the back of the receiver being held in by the trigger assembly that can be seen if you take the barrel off. Without this, the bolt can travel too far rearward and that may be the cause of the breakage. This is all guess work without seeing it but sounds like it could be serious. I'd think about letting Benelli take a look at it.
  25. Do you mean the firing pin retaining pin, the rubber o-ring on it or the locking head pin? Either one would be a rare failure. Being a .308, does it have the short action block installed in the back of the receiver?
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