Benelligunny

Nova or Super Nova...yes it makes a difference.

You know Benelli is equipped to handle this.

camo or black?

With different manuals come differing part numbers. If you call CS and have them look up the part numbers they will tell you they are the same. You can also look in Brownell's factory parts catalog.

Best for you to get a pump if you want to shoot something that light. Benelli's are inertia operated. Without enough energy and mass, the required transfer of energy to the inertia system cannot operate and cycle the action properly.

Hate to bust your bubble but the hammer springs are the same on everything except the 20ga guns. The fact is that the 3 1/2" stroke is longer than the 3" stroke of the M2 and it has a heavier recoil spring to be able to cycle a 3 1/2" shell into the chamber. All you're going to do by lightening the springs is to risk ammo beating up a good "heavy sporting" gun.

Right handed shooters flinch left. Try shooting a load that does not punch you so you're not anticipating the recoil (flinching) like a heavy Dove load. POI on most modern guns is 60/40 with a 6 o'clock hold of the front sight on the target not 50/50 with the POA on the muzzle covering the target.

Springs will last a very long time but the guns wont operate if they are dry of oil. Oil the bolt rails and the recoil assembly, not just a light hint of oil from a Q-tip. No dry lubes, no graphite. Militec, Breakfree CLP or any good quality fully synthetic oil.

Couple of quick things I notice from just looking at your picture. You have an oversized bolt handle, it looks like it's dragging on the clearance area in the receiver for the bolt handle (may just be the angle) and you have an aftermarket bolt release. Bolt release could be putting stress on the latch at the wrong time on occasion if you happen to grip it while shooting thereby pinching the shell during cycling. Another thing...if the magazine spring is really strong I would suggest clipping about six inches from it. Too strong of a mag spring can make the shell bounce back forward from the trigger guard causing it to become wedged towards the front. This was not a problem in the M1 style guns because the guards were metal, not plastic, and did not flex or cause bounce.

Can't buy it, only comes with a gun. Manufactured in Italy. Suggest you go to the store and buy a good synthetic oil. Militec-1, BreakfreeCLP or any other good drip style oil.

Also, cleaning it is good. Don't forget the oil as Benelli's will not work when dry. Bolt, bolt rails, recoil assembly. Light, thin coats...no good, thin spray oils...no good. Use a drip bottle, fully synthetic, BreakfreeCLP, Militec-1...stuff like that is good.

Field strip it, clean it well, oil it well. Look at the areas in the barrel where the bolt slides back and forth. Any spots where the bluing is worn, oil. Spray oils are better than nothing but close to it. For heavy use I would suggest a drip style, fully synthetic oil.

If the gun is new, oil it. Oil it well (action spring, bolt, bolt rails) with a non-aerosol oil like BreakfreeCLP, Militec-1, etc. A dry gun cannot operate. I agree, if the gun is empty it will lock back all the time. In the pump mode, it is designed to work as a pump. The action spring will not be strong enough to return the weight of the entire assembly back to battery, you should do this yourself as if it had no action spring. If you're putting all kinds of gear on the M3 remember, it's an inertia operated gun. Weight acts like a recoil reducer. The more weight on the gun, the slower it will operate until it ceases to operate. General rule is no more than 1 pound of extra weight over stock configuration especially if you have a PG stock.

Probably part number 67. Yup, that's the ejector retaining pin. It's a roll pin actually. It's a regular thing for them to fall out but if yours is intact then it could be a dropped one that they could not find. Look and make sure you still have the ejector with the spring attached to it. Easy to put back in, just make sure the spring goes in first with the ejector plate attached to it. Remove the barrel and pull the slide back and look square at the front of the receiver. About 1 1/4" in from the front, just above the ejector plate you will see an open area. Simply lay the roll pin against the wall of the receiver and start the roll pin into the void just above the plate. You may need a flat blade screwdriver or long punch to push it the rest of the way in, a hammer is not needed. Once the barrel is installed there is no risk of it coming back out.

It's a 1oz copper solid hollow point. 2 3/4". Remington's item number PR12CS.

Up to 200 yards is up to the ability of the shooter, his condition and the guns condition. Mine will do 200 yards with the Rem slugs. Made a 275 yard shot on a 170 pound doe one time but my shooting position was perfect (and it was the last day of the season). 95% of my shots are within 60 yards just because I like to be closer.

Seen the same thing in SBEII's with thousands of rounds of stuff heavier than that shot through them with one's that look like that and no problems. Never seen it an issue after being through thousands of Benelli's. If you want to change it, go ahead, it's you're gun. Just make sure you restake the bolt body after doing that or the link will drift out and destroy the bolt rails in the receiver...then you'll have real problems.

Yup, all the above is good. Keep it well oiled also especially if it's a newer gun, but even with an older one. Dry action, no oily, no worky. No matter how heavy the load.

Very important to use the slower slugs (around 1500 fps). With the twist rate in the Benelli RS barrel the high velocity slugs will not hold accuracy. Besides, faster will not give you a harder hitting or better accuracy anyhow. The sky is the limit on which one you may find best for your gun, setup and ability to shoot. I personally use the Remington Premier Copper Solid 1oz 1450fps and can keep them touching at 120 yards with ease.

The bolt links are riveted and silver soldered together for extra strength so it can look tarnished, rusted or whatever. Italy does not clean them up to the highest quality because they are inside the gun and no one would be staring at them anyhow. Ever heard the saying "if it aint broke, don't fix it"?

Could be a few other things...just guessing at a few. When reassembling the trigger assembly the drop lever spring came unhooked or got missed being hooked up during reassembly. Another being if you have a side saddle on the receiver and got the screw too tight. This will pinch the receiver right through where the carrier and drop lever are hinged so that when the carrier comes back down after loading a shell it will drag on the drop lever (pivoting it down as well) just like it had been manually tripped. Last being that the D-clip on the trigger pin bushing is missing or the bushing itself is broken causing drop lever misalignment.

Another, although a more expensive way to do this is to have someone like Ballistic Specialties or Magnaport lengthen the forcing cone and/or back bore the barrel. Even though this slightly decreases the weight, it allows the shot to be compressed over a longer distance into a larger bore size therefore reducing felt recoil. I speak from experience because I had it done to my SBE and I love it and it will still cycle a standard WinAA load with no problems. BE CAREFUL! Not many can do this as it takes a carbide reamer to do this process and if not done correctly can ruin a barrel and reamer to cut through the chrome lining. Rob Roberts did mine and a fine polish job to go with it. Helped the pattern also.

Remember you have a sporting gun that is designed to handle 3 1/2" shells. Minimum load should be a 3 dram 1 1/8oz Heavy Target. Standard trap or skeet loads may not work reliably in a gun designed to take on the heaviest loads possible and make sure it's oiled inside the barrel part where the bolt slides. These guns won't cycle any shell if they're dry.

All of them say patent pending and barrel numbers and receiver numbers never match.

Do not use snap caps to get an idea on how any shotgun cycles. They are not the same size or weight as a live shell (not built to the same dimensions), they aren't even dummy rounds. Snap caps only serve one purpose, something else useless to buy. Glad you bought a good gun, now go put some live shells in it and shoot it safely. I'm sure it will be just fine.