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Milspec

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Posts posted by Milspec

  1. It looks like NP3 has a hardness range of 48-51 rc which is a little tighter spec range than NP3+ which appears to be 35-50.

    I guess it's a roll of the dice where your hardness ends up with the NP3+.  I wonder if I should call them and have it switched to NP3.

  2. Sweet!  Did you have those done in NP3 or NP3+?

    I sent my M4 and other parts in to them this week.  They seem very organized over there.  The day it arrived they sent me a quote and had the job logged in their system with in 5 1/2 hours of receiving.  Time to wait and squirrel away more cash to pay off the other half.  Based on SD's wait time I figure I have about 4/5 months.

    Thanks again to SD for all of his help.  A lot of guys that have his level of knowledge aren't nearly as forthcoming with sharing.

    He saved me from sending in my CC mag tube for no reason.

     

  3. On 2/6/2020 at 12:17 AM, BenelliFanboy said:

    So bring back this topic again.  I had a chance to visit the Briley booth and hold one of their M4 shotguns.  Then I remembered about the loading port I did with them.

    What I found out was they did have a beveled edge while the one they did for me did not have one.  While taking the rep there, he told me all their shotguns had beveled edges and not sure why mine didn't have one.  I'm going to write to their customer service to find out what is going on.

    1125870096_BrileyShotShowBenelliM4.thumb.jpg.b3cbd81f22cc5d87313a1b637bbbeffa.jpg

    What hand guard/forearm is that?

  4. 18 minutes ago, Birdog19 said:

    'Spec -

    As I recall, you swapped to an A&S TG within the last few months, right?  Agree, the safety pin was stupid tight, yet you had no problem with the trigger bushing?  I wonder if their anodizing process is adding too much thickness in certain areas (holes)?  I'm no expert on the subject!

    Yes, BD.  I changed it over to the A&S 3/4 months ago.  I don’t remember having an issue with the trigger bushing.  My main challenge besides the safety roll pin was the snap ring that retains the bushing.

    I didn’t have a good quality pair snap ring pliers at the time.  I had some difficulty removing that bushing snap ring.  Since then I invested the $20+ and upgraded my pliers.

  5. Mine went together pretty well.  The roll pin that holds in the detent and spring for the safety was stupid tight.  Really out of control stupid tight.

    I also purchased the lightened safety spring.  Although it could be a hair stiffer for my taste, it’s much better than the OEM.  The factory safety spring is not that user friendly IMHO.

  6. 46 minutes ago, Scout_21 said:

    It really depends on the slug.  See the recommendation by the manufacturer.  Nearly every foster slug I've seen can be shot through a FULL choke...  I've shot hundreds though my modified with no problems.  If you get peace of mind by purchasing a cyl or imp cyl choke tube go for it.  I've since moved on to integrally choke barrels by benelli (their oem sbs and mil spec 18.5")

    Where did you come across the mil spec 18.5"?

  7. Crazy stuff.  Thanks for the info. 
     

    I like their mounts just not a fan of the Trijicon RMR.  However, the SRO has the same screw alignment as the RMR.  The down side is the SRO is not nearly as tough.  I don’t know if it would stand up to the recoil.

  8. Not to boss hog in on the OP’s thread but I’d like to buy a Sync mount for the Ainpoint Micro T-1 etc.

    I’m assuming Scalarworks discontinued them.  I can’t seem to find one.

  9. Does anyone know how the CC mag tube in “muted” matches up to the NP3 finish?

    They say it’s pretty close but I haven’t heard from anyone who actually has seen or owns one.

  10. On 11/7/2019 at 8:33 PM, StrangerDanger said:

    Scout and Evolution covered most of it. The only thing I'd caution is Benelli did a bit of a bait and switch with the H2O models. The original H2O was NP3 plated. The current ones are Cerakoted to look like they're NP3 plated. Cerakote does pretty good at protecting the finish, but it does not have the embedded teflon substrate that makes it function without lubrication. The Cerakote models didn't even paint the small moving parts because Cerakote isn't really good for that. It's too thick and uneven of a finish that will cause tolerance stacking issues.

    I just sent my first batch of parts out today to Wright Armory. They're picking up where Robar left off for getting the plating done with CTL. CTL won't deal with the little people directly. I tried to send batches of a few thousand parts in and it wasn't enough for them to bother with me. We'll see how it goes with Wright Armory. The owner has been working with me directly to get everything lined up like the chemical stripping for the aluminum parts.

    For fun, I sent a good portion of my Dillon 650 in with this batch to get it plated. Including the main ram, shell plates, most of the screws, primer system and so on. My 650 is pretty tricked out with aftermarket parts like a Mr. Bullet Feeder. I process a lot of pistol brass with it. So anything to help keep it running smooth and grit free is a huge benefit. If you have one, you know they're prone to rusting, so it'll be a good upgrade for it.

    I sent in a client's high end AR15's. A close quarters model, and a long range precision build with a Nightforce optic. Carbon fiber wrapped barrels on both. Lithium aluminum receivers and so on. I disassembled the JP Enterprises silent buffers and sent all the parts for plating. I even took the UBR stock apart and sent the steel internal parts and screws in.

    igxxG6J.jpg

    Another issue with the Benelli H2O's is they didn't plate as much as they should have. They left a lot of the parts unfinished which hurt its performance and resistance to corrosion. They didn't plate the ARGO system at all or the rear sight assembly. Its nice being able to send your accessories in to get everything matching too.

    bAOPaKF.jpg

    SD, does Wright Armory disassemble like Robar use to?  Or does everything have to be broken down?  I know you bust everything down, I’m just wondering what’s their method of operation.  I know they say Ti can’t be plated but I’m wondering if they would do a mag tube and simply not warranty the finish?

  11. I had a local shop do it for me.  They are more of a 1911 custom place but they know what they are doing.  

    I went way conservative compared to most.  If you saw it you would probably think it wasn’t opened up enough.  While this would be true to most I didn’t want to go too aggressive.  I’m not a three gunner, just wanted to make reloading a little easier and efficient.  At the same time I wanted to retain the tactical integrity without making it too sporting like.  I hate throwing out the word “tactical” but I think it applies here.

    I messed around with it a little bit and was able to dual load a couple times.  I’m sure with some practice and getting use to it I could be more proficient.  Perhaps quad loads in the future but like I say it’s a modest opening.

    Overall I’m happy with it but I wish they rounded it off more where the mag tube begins and the follower lies.

  12. 13 hours ago, Redweirdbeard said:

    Sorry guys I didn't mean to get everyone hopes up. I just contacted them and they said yeah we do NP3 so I assumed they would do all firearms. But I guess not. However it looks like we will still have a option hopefully in the near future. 

    No worries.  It was a good lead.  It’s not your fault.  Thanks for bringing it up as a possibility.

  13. 6 hours ago, Birdog19 said:

    I have the FFT 1/2" titanium handle.  It fell out yesterday after about 80 rounds of bird shot.  Luckily for me it wasn't during firing; it just fell at my feet and my buddies, said, "Dude, look!"  I re-installed and gave it a tug and shot another 20 rounds or so without incident.  If I just pissed in someone's cornflakes, my apologies!  Next time I go to the range I'll take my OEM as a spare and will update this forum if it happens again.

    I hate to laugh but it’s not at your situation.  Todd from FFT just posted a new charging handle video on YouTube yesterday.  He went on and on about how the steel and ti handles will both serve you for an entire lifetime.  He further continued to say that the ti handles might get some dings but they will never fall out.  Too crazy.  Unless you didn’t have it fully inserted but I would guess that you know what you’re doing.

    Sorry to hear about your handle.  Hopefully, he’ll take care of you.

     

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