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SBE recoil spring assembly


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What does the recoil tube nut look like?


If it's hex, it is most likley 17mm and can be removed after heating to break the locktite. I've never used locktite to reassemble, but Benelli may recommend it.


Put a screw or something in the drain hole so the spring doesn't go flying!


If it's flush, you have the oldest tube nut and may need a gunsmith to remove.


I'd get a new recoil spring from Wolf for the reassembly.

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MH, No flats on the outside of the assembly, must be the oldest one. It's an H&K SBE. No issues with the spring at this time. Might be better off to wait until I have a new one in hand before attempting.


Are the threads RH or LH to remove the assembly?



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Here is a wealth of information that you could print and file in your SBE Owners Manual:


As usual Mudhen has great insights of these fine Benelli offering as well:


Benelli M1, SBE, and Montefeltro Recoil Spring & Maintained tips.


My experience with Benelli Autoloaders is quite extensive. I purchased one of the original Montefeltro’s imported by H&K and have worked on and performed year end maintenance on over 200 guns models listed above and the Nova.


I’m sure everyone knows how to “field strip” your gun, I will not cover this however I will add what may be of value from my experience. What most Benelli owners do not know about the gun they own is, the vital component listed as the recoil spring and the recoil spring tube. This will be the focus of this writing because it is not covered in the Benelli owner’s manual. With the knowledge and understanding of this maintenance and process, the problems experienced in cycling issues could be completely eliminated. It is vital that your recoil spring maintenance be performed on a yearly basis, the exceptions would be low usage or submerged gun.


Removing the Butt Plate requires a thin shaft Philips screwdriver with a number #2 head. Apply oil to the Butt Plate screw holes before inserting the screw driver. This will minimize the damage to the rubber. Remove Butt Plate. Insert a 13mm deep socket in the back of the stock and remove the stock retaining nut, this nut will need to be torque to 22 lbs upon assembly. The stock assembly and drop change shim will come off. To remove the recoil spring, the stock retaining nut SCREW will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will require a 17mm closed end wrench. Older Benelli’s will not have the nut attached to the stock retaining screw; this will make the process more difficult. To remove the stock retaining nut screw, my experience has been in most circumstances heat will be required to address the locktite which has been applied to the screw from the factory. Place the receiver assembly in a vise just tight enough to hold the receiver be careful not to crush receiver. Protect the receiver to eliminate damage. Heat the stock retaining nut screw near the recoil spring tube with a Bic type lighter for up to one minute. This is all I ever needed to slacken the locktite. Then place your closed end wrench on the nut and loosen. Care must be taken when removing the screw the assembly is under pressure of the recoil spring. The recoil spring ready to be removed and the recoil spring plunger. Upon assembly do not use locktite; this processed should be performed annually anyway.

Concluding, the recoil tube should be cleaned with gun scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush inserted through the tube. The recoil spring should be cleaned as well. My experience with the factory recoil spring has been less than desired. I have replaced factory springs after one year on M1’s model number 11045 serial numbers M400240 and M400239. The original Montefeltro springs seemed better, lasting 10 years. I replace the recoil spring with Wolff 25% extra power spring. Keep in mind these are hunting guns and do not shoot low base 7/8 0z shells. Wolff 25% reduced power spring works well for light loads. You will know when your spring needs to be replaced when the bolt assembly does not rotate to the closed position after shooting the first shell, when your gun is properly maintained. This failure increases when shooting in cold weather and shooting directly overhead, when the bolt faces the force of gravity. Assembly of the recoil spring requires minimal usage of synthetic spray lube, just enough to lubricate and protect metal. Excessive oil will collect more powder residue. Synthetic will minimize congeal at low temps.


When reassembling the gun it would be helpful to install your trigger assembly, this will make the alignment of the stock easier. The bolt assembly should be kept clean. I use a few drops of Break Free inside of the receiver assembly on the bolt rails, this should be all the lubricant you will need after cleaning the assembly with gun scrub. A “dry” clean magazine assembly, dry meaning no lubricant, will create the same symptom of the bolt assembly not rotating closed in cold weather as well. This cost me a double on Canada Geese this year because I was to lazy to field strip my Benelli and lube it properly when encountering cold weather. The field striping and lubricating noted above can be performed in a few minutes after a few repetitions.




The SBE II & M2 require a similar process to the above with a few differences. The buttpad is quick-detachable. The drop change shim will need to be carefully inspected when removed. Note the index of the top of the shim so installation is exact. The 13 mm socket will need to be of very deep profile to remove the stock retaining nut. The retaining nut screw will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will not require heat, noted in the removal of this part on SBE I & M1. The new recoil spring, guide and tube are corrosion resistant. It is not stainless steel like the Sure Cycle aftermarket system. Cleaning the new models just like the old models. The Wolff springs are not available for the new gun for the general public.


Shells & Findings


The Benelli Autolaoding gun uses a two piece bolt and spring to accomplish the energy transfer necessary to initiate the bolt cycle and perform all necessary autoloading functions, including recocking, extracting, ejection, and reloading.

Additionally the Benelli chamber is bored very tight.


Many shells today (no brands any better) simply do not hold tolerance to insert properly in Benelli guns. Remove your barrel from your gun and drop a shell into the chamber. Every shell should fall into the chamber with no resistance. Keep in mind while cleaning you barrel, extra attention will need to be given to the chamber area. A 12 or 10 Gauge wire brush should be used in the firsts 4” of the chamber. You will be surprised how a clean chamber will help with “shell issues”. If your shells do not fall into the chamber with any resistance you will change the dynamic of the above said functionality of inertia. You do not have to throw these shells away. Lightly polish the plastic or brass until resistance is eliminated. The larger the diameter of the shot the more possibility the shot will not lay the hull properly which will the cause a dimple on the outside of the shell. I have found the shell issue increasing in recent years.


In my personal hunting guns I have a Wolff hammer springs installed. These work great for a deeper hammer/dimple on primers of shot shells. The downside would be the increase resistance of recocking the hammer which again changes dynamics of the inertia system.


Benelli has made changes to guns which make it much easier to maintain. Take advantage the new functionality. One of the first Montefeltro’s imported to the USA by H&K had no information about the recoil spring or recoil tube. A retaining nut screw was not even installed on the recoil tube. Finally, when encounter cold weather take extra time to clean and lube your Benelli properly. Shooting directly overhead will test your Benelli because the energy produced for inertia now is fighting against the forces of gravity, more resistance.


I hope this information will help you with your Benelli. Following the above will keep you from the Benelli problems Chad Belding experience in 24-7 “Running Traffic”

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MH, No flats on the outside of the assembly, must be the oldest one. It's an H&K SBE. No issues with the spring at this time. Might be better off to wait until I have a new one in hand before attempting.


Are the threads RH or LH to remove the assembly?




Sounds like you have the old tube nut. Read the very good post below for one way to remove the old plug. I was not that fortunate with the first removal - my GS called and said he tried everything, and it wouldn't budge. I already had the new 17mm plug, so I told him it was fine to destroy the original plug to get it out. He flattened both sides and was able to remove it that way.


The plug turns out counter-clock wise as I recall.


Good luck!

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That is some great information and EXACTLY what I was looking for.


Thank you


I`ve been noticing powder residue and marsh trophies (cattail fluff, tiny seeds etc.) around the recoil spring plunger when I cleaned the gun the last couple of times and was thinking to myself "that`s getting down in there"


I bought a used 1187 Supermag a few seasons back that was a single shot and when I pulled the spring it looked like nobody had EVER done this often overlooked maintenence.

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  • 8 years later...

GREAT INFORMATION: I was having trouble with shells not recycling and loose bolt in my older SBE. I followed the instructions to the letter and the only trouble I had was loosening the LOCKTITE. After running out of flame on the bic lighter a couple times with no luck. I then VERY Carefully heated it with a propane tank for about 30 seconds and that loosened it but still need a lot of torque to release the nut. I had to scrape the loctite off the bolt and tube, very thick. Will not use it on reassembly. Looking for replacement spring, I guess Wolf would be a good replacement, any suggestions? My grandson shoots Tram and Skeet in summer, we use it for Turkey and duck primarily for hunting. Suggest Extra Power or Reduced Power, or just get original replacement?

Thanks for information.

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