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flip-up covers for Micro T-1?


xamoel

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what about flashlight mounts, will they cause problems as well, or are they lighter and not affected by the faulty rail design? (nothing against sidearmor here, but why can't they just make in spec rails?)

 

I've had no problems with the Sreamlight TLR-1 light mounted on my Sidearmor. If the Sidearmor rail was a spec rail on top it would block your sight picture for the iron sights. I suspect that the side rail sections being not spec is a weight saving measure. The problem that was described in the past of a Larue mount coming off was mounted on a Benelli OEM rail not a Sidarmor which is beefier. benellikz108.jpg

 

(left to right) KZ, Sidearmor, Benelli

 

here's a pic of the Streamlight mounted. One advantage over the Surefire is that if you are using a pressure switch the Streamlights 90 degree plug keeps extra wire hanging out anywhere to an absolute minimum. The Surefire has a straight plug so you'll always have some loop of wire somewhere that can snag on stuff to deal with.

 

benellim411707017.jpg

 

 

Later,

 

Hookster

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i sent him a pm about it.

btw, on your first pic, is the sidearmor rail a side rail, or the top rail?

just asking because the holes for the screws don't seem to be in the right place for the top rail...

 

The Sidearmor rail in the pic is a long side rail section so the hole pattern is different. Sidearmor's top rail "nubs" are identical in dimension to the side rail nubs in the picture.

 

Later,

Hookster :)

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strangerdanger said he never had any problems with his Larue T-1 and the sidearmor, as he tightens it just right ;)

 

sorry to come back to KAC Unobtanium, but what did you mean when you said KAC was an unknown of 200$?

if their mount was more suited for the sidearmor/OEM rail, i would gladly spend 80$ more!

Edited by xamoel
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It ain't that tough to open. I can open it with one hand. No deformation to the side of the rail where the cam rubs. It's hard to describe the amount of tension needed. The best combination is a light optic or light, and a properly tightened mount. Seat it against the lug when locking the mount. This will give it no where to move to and cause damage.

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strangerdanger said he never had any problems with his Larue T-1 and the sidearmor, as he tightens it just right ;)

 

sorry to come back to KAC Unobtanium, but what did you mean when you said KAC was an unknown of 200$?

if their mount was more suited for the sidearmor/OEM rail, i would gladly spend 80$ more!

 

The KAC mount has never been tested in the "LOW" configuration, and I am not sure it has one. The only guys testing them run them on KAC carbines and other stuff like that, not shotguns.

 

Therefor, if you want to know how it works, you have to pays your money, because last time I called KAC and asked about a product they didn't know **** about it. THey couldn't tell me how many, and what number of rib rail-panels would fully cover my KAC RAS M5. Unless I got the one employee who is a dick, they are clueless.

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It ain't that tough to open. I can open it with one hand. No deformation to the side of the rail where the cam rubs. It's hard to describe the amount of tension needed. The best combination is a light optic or light, and a properly tightened mount. Seat it against the lug when locking the mount. This will give it no where to move to and cause damage.

 

Both Duggan and I tried this without OEM Benelli rails and both of us had a heavily damaged LaRue mount to show for it inside a dozen or so shots.

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What optic were you guys using? I wonder if the weight of the package increases damage? The factory rail is a real POS. Even my Accucam from GG&G for my old EOTech 552 damaged the rail. That had a full cross bolt too.

 

Someone paid 30 bucks for that piece of crap on gunbroker.

 

The LaRue mount is what went, not the rail. I was using a LaRue MRD at around 3-5oz or something I think.

 

EOtech's are pigs.

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