alfred10 Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 I want to install my carrier comp tube. Should I use a hair drier to heat the glue off on the old one? Should I use lock tight on the new one? Will it void the warrenty? Any installation tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROCKETW19 Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 I want to install my carrier comp tube. Should I use a hair drier to heat the glue off on the old one? Should I use lock tight on the new one? Will it void the warrenty? Any installation tips? If you search the site their is some step by step instructions on how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticalKoala Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 search this site, must be at least ten threads on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticalKoala Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 any unauthorized alteration or modification of the firearm will void this warranty. Benelli shall not be responsible for any claims involving this firearm that result from the use of faulty, non-standard, remanufactured or reloaded ammunition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KB Fab Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 I used a Milwaukee heat gun on the low setting and directed the heat on the portion of the stock tube where it meets the receiver. You will know it's hot enough when it starts to smoke a little. Try not to overheat it but when you see smoke, you should start trying to turn it. You may have to re-apply the heat a couple more times..........again, only till it starts to smoke a little. The stock tube should come off and you can clean out any leftover loctite from the receiver threads. I didn't use anything when I installed my CC tube. I just threaded it in hand tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sck260 Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 ...I just threaded it in hand tight. same here. you can get heat gun for $10-$15 at harbor freight if you have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookster Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Here is a copy of Kip's instructions: Tools required; > Heat gun.(Refrain from using flame devices, torches, etc., they are overkill and have the potential of discoloring the finish on the receiver) > Snap ring pliers. >Stiff nylon or brass bristled tooth-brush, Q-tips and acetone. > Rubber grip pad. (Similar to a jar lid gripper, or even a piece of tire inner tube) >Padded vise. (not required but helpful if done alone without an assistant) Before proceeding please ensure the firearm is completely unloaded, clear mag tube and chamber, firearm on safe. Lock the bolt to the rear, then remove the factory barrel nut (by hand), set the barrel, bolt group, and handguards to the side. Using snap ring pliers set to compress when gripped, carefully remove the spring retainer from the end of the factory mag tube, (keep it aimed away from your face, with your other hand over the end so that the spring can be safely contained when it is "set free"). Then tilt the gun downwards, allowing the spring and follower to fall out. Place gun in a lightly clamped padded vise (ensuring the bolt release button is not clamped), between your knees, or in the hands of a competent assistant. Using the heat gun set to a maximum 400 F, apply direct heat to the full circumference of the mag tube where it meets the receiver, allowing heat to reach the receiver as well, continue rotating the heat around the junction until the two are beyond unbearable to touch (using an infra-red thermometer if available, you will typically see results when the receiver temp nears 250F), favor application of heat to the receiver, as it retains heat more efficiently. At that temp (around 250F) you should be able to begin twisting the factory tube off [ccw](here's where the rubber grip pad does double duty as a heat shield, and provides much better grip than bare hands). Do not use a pipe wrench for a few reasons, 1st it will damage your factory tube, but foremost it will provide excessive torque that may allow you to force removal before the loc-tite is ready to let go. Once it starts to turn, the battle is won, just keep it turning until it is free. Next clean the internal threads with acetone, Q-tips, and the nylon or brass tooth brush. It will look scary at 1st since the residue from the factory loc-tite is chalky white, but once you have it all cleaned off, you should be looking at the pristine black anodized receiver threads where the old tube use to be. You are now ready to install your replacement tube. Don't forget to transfer the handguard's stamped steel rear brace onto the new tube BEFORE threading it into the receiver, it is a "captured part" that has to be in place during assembly. Most people opt to fore-go the use of loc-tite, simply torqing in their new tube as tight as can be done by hand. If you use loc-tite, make sure you check the data sheet, and select a grade that can be heated for removal with LOW HEAT like the factory used. Typically just a drop of medium strength Loc-Tite brand "blue" will be sufficient if you use any at all. Replace all the remaining components, and enjoy!! Later, Hookster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super33 Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Don't use a hairdryer. Have you seen women using hairdryers in the bathroom? They're in there FOREVER and that's exactly what will happen to you if you try and use a hairdryer to remove your stock tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticalKoala Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Mine was extremely easy, I took it to a gunsmith...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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