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I snug the two hidden screws up until I cannot slide the the rail into place. Then I back them off a little at a time until the rail just slides on. 

I use blue Loctite 243 on these. I rub a small amount on the base of the rail which glues the rail to the receiver once dry. It’s easy to remove if needed, usually a light whap with a rubber mallet will knock it free. 

Once the rail is on by these two hidden screws, install the two that are visible with Loctite. 

Seat your optic with the battery installed. Install the two screws that came from Scalarworks with Loctite. 


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Thanks M2 and SD for that. Doing it now and got to that part and i got no slide. Glad i checked things before i went ahead and torqued down the B screws, nothing said about these being finger tight or less. Instructions says your torq is 15.

Do you trust going 15 inch on the C screws and are the RMO to mount screws already tight. 

MY RMO and mount was in shrink rap and put together when i opened the box.

Scared to death to mess this this up.

Edited by whatscooking
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Sorry for all the silly questions. I am a retired fleet mechanic and all these small screws had me sweating it a bit. Everything came apart sweet and after fiddling with the center screws the slide is working with the screws finger tight now. It does sit in there nice.

I am trying to locate a recoil tube before i start locktighting everything down. 

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The weight spec is probably fine with that thread locker the screws are supplied with. I believe the oem top rail screws torque spec is 12-14 inch pounds. This isn’t very tight and those screws only have those lock washers. 

You could put a witness mark on the visible screws with a silver Sharpie. You just put a thin strip from the screw head onto the rail. That way if the screw moves, you’ll see the strip has moved and it’ll be out of clock. 

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