bambihunter

I bought my original SBE (1) in 1994 and In my experience when the ammo is too light, it will eject the empty shell case, but the bolt won't go back far enough to release the next shell from the mag. You might consider shooting 1 1/8 oz DRAM, even the cheapo ammo has worked for me in all my SBE's, and other Benelli 3" guns without fail. Almost all 7/8 oz DRAM loads fail to cycle with any regularity in my SBE's and 1 oz DRAM I can get maybe 1 event like described per box of shells. The 3" chamber guns work fine with 1 oz and most of the time with the 7/8 oz. I am sure there is a point when the powder charge comes in to play, but for me, it has always been the mass of projectiles that made the difference. On one SBE I bought cheap from a buddy who is infamous for never cleaning his guns, the tube in the stock was all gunked up with oil and what looked like wheat chaff. Pulling the spring out, cleaning the tube thoroughly, and using dry lube (the only thing I use on mag and recoil tubes) and she ran great. The jams looked quite a bit like yours. In this case, the cause was friction.

HughCA, you could verify visually which port type it is. Also, if it is a REALLY good deal, perhaps you could buy it, then buy a replacement barrel. I'm not sure if there'd be any demand on the 4 port due to its rarity to Benelli collectors (which I am one, but not interested in the barrel). Just a thought, but remember barrels often run for $500 so it'd have to be a really good deal.

There's no benefit to oiling the stocks at all. In fact, if the finish is in good shape on the metal, I wouldn't hardly oil the outside. I only occasionally field strip and check and clean the bolt during the season. Then, I clean my SBE at the end of the seasons and only then do I give it a very LIGHT oil wipe. I put just enough on that it makes the matte metal shiny. Then, I lightly run a cloth wipe over it to where it looks nearly like it did before, but with a richer black color and not oily feeling whatsoever. These don't need the care that antique's or even blued guns do. As for repairing what you have, I really don't know. I have various coated Remington 700 stocks that have gotten sticky. I was able to peel that off with heat and patience. Then, I sent it in to the stock maker which was Bell & Carlson and they sprayed a conventional pattern on for a nominal fee. They MIGHT do work for other manufacturers. I'm not sure. Others might have some ideas, but only other thoughts are lightly sand it down to where it is no longer sticky. I can't imagine it going very deep.

For the bolt guides, pretty much use whatever oil you want. I will say definitely do not use oil in the magazine. Use some type of dry spray lube. Though probably not quite as important, I also recommend the same for the recoil spring assembly in the stock. The reason is probably obvious, yet I see it all the time. People lube the magazine tube with copious amounts of oil. Then, while out hunting the drop a shell on the ground. They pick it up and pop it in without ever cleaning it. All that dust, lint, plant debris, etc. is now in your magazine and will gunk it up. I have made a lot of money from friends buying their non-functioning "jam-o-matics", cleaning these tubes out, and reselling them working perfectly.

It is still odd their choice of fit. I am a person that can pick up about any shotgun and within maybe a dozen shots hit consistently without adjustments. I'm talking shotguns from the 1910's to present. But, then they want us to throw away a half-century of learned behavior that is consistent , and learn a different way. This is one of several reasons why I am sticking with my SBE (1). I imagine realistically, they didn't want to manufacture a different bead or sighting plane for us on this side of the pond so they were just like "here, learn the European way to shoot it".

The Franchi SPAS-15 was very reliable mag fed shotgun as well. Plus, it offered both pump or semi-auto function so you can change it depending on your needs. They are quite rare in the US and sell for minimum of ~$6,500 and since 2020 or so, the 2 I have seen sell on Gunbroker went for over $8k.

If you use GunBroker, you can go to advanced search, and set up your keywords and search. After you've searched, you can tell it to save your search (if you have an account) and then you can also have it email you when it is found. With a little trial and error on the keywords, you can have it email you when it comes up, without a bunch of what you don't want. That is how I find all my really hard to find stuff though admittedly sometimes it takes a long time.

Try shooting 1 1/8 oz target loads. They are the same price, you can still get the el-cheapo stuff like at Wal-Mart. I'd bet it'll solve it for you.

At the heart of the M3 is still the inertial system so it certainly can affect it. That said, I've found it to be MUCH more critical of having a firm shoulder mount than anything else. If I "free hand" where I let it swing freely my M3 or SBE's, they will fire and eject the empty. But, because they don't have any real resistance, they don't go back far enough to hit the cartridge release and thus never picks up the next cartridge. So, back to your question, you can overcome this issue of lack of resistance (in my case) or extra weight added (in your case) by shooting a higher DRAM-EQ shell. For the 3.5" capable SBE's, I end up shooting the 1 1/8 oz load and it has solved all short cycling issues on both guns. They are still available as el-cheapo loads from Wal-Mart.

A few ideas... 1. Using a hair dryer or heat gun on lower setting, evenly heat the area where the threads are. On the M2, that should be 3/4" or so from the muzzle. Don't get it so hot you can't touch the barrel, even where you are heating. But, it should be uncomfortably warm in this area then use your choke wrench to try to loosen. A gentle tap with a rubber mallet could help too. 2. Soak the threaded section of the barrel muzzle-down in some type of penetrating oil overnight (at least). I'd clean it thoroughly first with normal gun cleaner to remove all the gunk that you can first. If you can easily remove sights or anything else, it will make it easier to clean up excess oil afterwards. 3. I only suggest this in the off chance you have access to metal CNC or lathe. Do some measuring on the taper where it transitions from the barrel to the choke (we did a lead mold to make it easier). Then, carefully transfer those measurements onto a rod that is long enough to extend from the chamber end of the barrel with it removed from the gun. It is hard to describe, but picture most of it being 1/2" except for the last 3/4" it goes up to the size of the choke where it follows that taper. What we've done then is to basically tap one side with the rod, then tap the choke wrench on the other side, back and forth. A dead-blow hammer works well for this. This is a gentle back and forth, back and forth. I've gotten more than a dozen chokes unstuck that the previous two methods hadn't managed to do (friend of my dad had a flood while he was out of town and by the time they got back to town, there was a lot of rust on 40+ firearms - it was a sad scene). Since he paid for the tool to be made, he still has it. I never thought to take any pictures. Good news is all of his firearms are back to working order, just not near as beautifully as they were before. 😔 There's no reason that these couldn't be combined too, just be careful of any flammability issues obviously. Like remarkable said, Briley can cut it down, but unless you desire the shorter length or the choke is actually bulged in place in the barrel, I'd work to get it removed. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

This was the factory length for the original (HK imported) M3's. It looks like those pictured above are the newer model. Just posting for reference and comparison.

The color change won't fix this issue though... So as Pavia3 stated, both is the best route. You'll probably regret selling this one, but I get it I've been there too. I bought an original 11711 NP3 H2O version but then the value shot up so much I decided to get a regular black one to shoot and keep the 11711 one NIB.

Another thought... If it is only on the barrel and the gun is a good deal, then get it and keep it lightly oiled and protected. You can always get it completely refinished later. Worst case scenario, they still sell those barrels (though not cheap). Depending on how and how often you use the gun, often those don't end up mattering. For me, my collectibles must be flawless, but my hunting and sporting guns inevitably end up with marks no matter how careful I try to be. I finally just had to accept that. You may end up getting the gun and loving it, but wish you had a different length barrel so then you could swap them out for a little difference in cost; maybe a couple hundred bucks tops.

Over on Gunbroker, here's a list of all 20 gauge 828u's for sale: https://www.gunbroker.com/Shotguns/search?Keywords=benelli 828u&PageSize=96&Sort=1&View=1&Ch-Gauge=20 Gauge Here's a used one in Lake Benton MN if that is anywhere close: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1006809290

Therein lies the issue, at least to get a new one... The 11711 was NP3 coated and came with the collapsible stock and extended mag. That shouldn't have really been released to us civvies in this config. From what I understand, they were brought over to try to garner police and military contracts and the leftovers were then sold on the open market. They weren't that much more than the regular M4 but in very short time, the demand sky-rocketed but no more would be made. They had started importing Cerakoted ones in a 922r compliant configuration which then people could modify. Robar closed, and some other NP3 applicator companies have mostly stopped doing small parts so it has gotten harder (but not impossible) to get the small pieces done now. I bought my 11711 new unfired and that is how it will remain. I had originally got it to shoot, but the value shot up so fast, that I decided it was money well spent to get another M4 to use and keep the other NIB. The last couple 11711's that I've seen for sale before COVID were $4,500 and I saw one sell during COVID go for ~$8,000, but people got stupid during that time on what they paid for stuff so I don't consider that an indicator of real value.

The price on these has dropped back down from their peak during the pandemic. One way to get a valid price for the going rate on Gunbroker is to do an advanced search. Then, select the "Completed" tab. Search for desired item, in this case SPAS-12. It will give you a list of closed auctions. It will list auctions that closed without selling, cloned NR rated scam sellers, and others as well, so a little skimming is in order to really get a good feel for it. Here's a link with that work already done: https://www.gunbroker.com/Shotguns/search/completed?Keywords=spas-12&Timeframe=1&Sort=1&PageSize=96 Personally, I'd say a good place to start would be $4,500 and adjust accordingly if that is less than you'd actually take. That's what I'd probably give for it. Stay away from using reserves as it turns a lot of people off including myself. Since yours has a lot of extras that can swing the value, I don't think I'd put a Buy It Now option either. From this side of the gun it isn't obvious whether it is the back side of the lever safety or if it is the cross-bolt safety but that hugely affects the price on these. Also, if you haven't already, I'd suggest replacing the shock buffer. There's a good chance it has disintegrated which can beat up the inside of the receiver when shot semi-auto.

It truly fixes almost all the things I disliked about the SPAS-12. I have shot my M3's a lot and am completely comfortable. But, only handled and shot a SPAS-15 one day for a box of shells. I thought I'd like the detachable mag, but with similar capacity to the tubes, I was torn. Only if they had extended mags would they seem viable. Now, the mags for those are several hundred bucks and the guns run ~$8,500 so I suspect they're getting shot less and less. Some of the new high cap shotguns certainly have a lot going for them though they lack the panache of these 3 dual-mode shotguns in my opinion.

I'd have to look at it again (it's been many years since I really looked specifically at it, but I believe it is more or less a regular dove tailed sight, maybe with a set screw. But, as I eluded to above, I remember hearing that on early ones, even on the original HK models, the sight dovetail location was slightly off so it wouldn't lock in place anyway. If memory serves (which it barely does anymore LOL), it was ~1/4" difference. These wrap around the back of the receiver some. Are the width of the receiver and shape of the trigger guard similar on new manufacture ones? I'd still opt for the original HK import versions for several reasons. One, they were imported and sold in that configuration and thus in many locals releasing them from some of the later restrictions. Two, HK original variants tend to hold a slight premium and were the only ones that were imported in this configuration. These can be "ghost loaded" but are a little tricky due to their shorter chamber than the SBE. I've also got a Franchi SPAS-12 and I can't fathom why it is so popular. It must be the look of that hook. There is really absolutely nothing that it does better than these do. Now, the SPAS-15 on the other hand, that would be a much closer call and I'd need some more trigger time to make that call.

An SBEII bolt should work just fine and will be cheaper and easier to find. I imagine that is why the bolt is missing from that gun. Someone took the "ghost load" capable one from that one and put it in their later model.

The forend I am 95% sure will not. I believe the barrel ring at the end of the mag tube (behind the magazine nut) is smaller on the Montefeltro. If memory serves, you can't add an extended magazine to the Monte for this reason whereas on the M1 it is no problem. As far as the buttstock, I can't say for sure. The part to compare would be the contours and angle behind the trigger guard. I am fairly sure the original Super Black Eagle's buttstock will fit, I don't remember the contours and don't have my saved pictures I usually post. I have posted them on here before if you want to search for them. I've posted pictures of M1, M3, M4, SBE, etc. if there is a way to search posts. I am at work so I probably should do some of it. 😉 LOL

Both, 11711 NP3 one, and a black one built out the same. The 11711 is NIB and will remain and the other is my shooter when I want a Benelli gas gun, though generally I grab the inertia guns.

No offense meant. You hadn't been on here enough to know if you knew about that stuff. It sounds like you do though, so all is good. I'll try to do some looking next week to see if I can help any finding what you are after. Good luck on your quest. I'll post back if I find anything.

Shawn, though I am fairly well versed on normal firearms laws, I am not 100% up on NFA stuff. That said, I don't think you can legally make what you are after in the US anymore. A pump can still be sold new and can use a pistol grip stock. Grandfathered semi-auto's can use folding stock (of which the original HK Benelli M3 folder's could probably be removed) which when folded give a pistol grip. However, if I am not mistaken, since 922r and probably before, semi-auto's can't be sold in that configuration to us mere mortals (civilians). It seems like it might have came about it the 90's when importation of certain types were ceased. There are designs that kind of skirt that like they did with AR's by using braces. One I can think of is the Rock Island VRF-14, but even it is really more of a bullpup and not a pistol grip. I may be wrong however. Just spend as much time checking the legalities as you are for looking to see IF it can be done. If a shotgun barrel is shorter than 18" or OAL is shorter than 26", then it is NFA. https://www.atf.gov/firearms/qa/which-firearms-are-regulated-under-nfa Below is my pair of HK import Benelli M3T's. They are on the rare side, but do pop up periodically on sites like Gunbroker. Just to answer your next question that will probably come up, these folding stocks are not the same on these as they are on the new model. Also, for the folding stock to lock in, it requires the correct barrel as these lock into the rear sight which is slightly different position than regular barrels.

The SBE is a legendary shotgun PERIOD! It is the 3.5" shotgun that all semi-auto waterfowl and turkey guns are judged against. I use mine for everything that one needs a shotgun for. For 3.5", is mostly hunt geese with (in the past anyway). I do turkey hunt some, but it isn't the same when they come up and stand on our porch looking in at us. LOL The couple of aftermarket chokes I have and use are all 20-25 years old and likely not made anymore. I don't remember what they are. Honestly, I'd suggest before buying any, get a couple boxes of different ammo in the size of shot you want to use and pattern it. Grab a few large pieces of cardboard and set it up first at maybe 25 or 30 yards. If I remember right, on my SBE, I used to shoot 3.5" 4 shot. Make sure to check your local regulations as some locales have restrictions on both shot size and even type of shot (such as lead free). Overall, I've always been impressed how tight the Benelli patterns are with the standard factory Mobil chokes. Supposedly the Crio are even better. In fact, though according to my calipers, they are in the industry range for each one, they seem to shoot tighter. In other words, I run skeet if I want IC type pattern. I run IC if normally I wanted Modified. I'd run Modified if I wanted full. Of course if you start shooting steel, then check the "Steel OK" rating on the chokes first. Now, as I get older, I mostly just do dove and quail with a very rare duck hunt thrown in. I haven't used above an IC choke for any of that. At first, my brother-in-law used to think I was being reckless with the distance he'd see me shoot dove. Then, he realized that I was dropping them with more regularity at 10+ yards more than him with the same choke (shooting out of the same case of ammo). We swapped guns and within just a few shots, we could both see the difference. I'd barely drop a feather with his at the range I was dropping them solidly with mine. It took him a little bit working up the distance to get comfortable, but pretty soon he realized he could as well, at least with my Benelli. He still shoots his gun since it was inherited from his father who died when he was young; but at least he now knows I wasn't being careless towards game. Pics of some of our front porch guests. We do not feed them or anything. We think as these are generally the younger toms, that they like to see themselves in the glass leading up to, and during mating season. They'll stand in front of it and preen themselves, checking out their struts. The first picture, we had the door off the hinges and we were painting it. That turkey stood there for maybe a half hour watching as we moved around the house. It was quite funny. If we made any noises, it would gobble at us. 😄 We have some with ~10" beards, but they don't come clear up on the porch. You can see the spurs on the one in that top pic. They are decent size for such a small beard.

On a SBE1 the forearm needs to be modified to fit any slug barrel or SBEII shot barrel, or else a SBEII forearm needs to be used. I have seen some poorly done jobs where the person took out too much material on the forearm from around the recoil lug behind the barrel ring. If this has been fitting fine, and this is a new issue, sometimes it wasn't quite aligned completely when reassembled. I have done that once and I just had to loosen the foreend cap a half turn, wiggle it a little until it seated the rest of the way and it was good to go.