bambihunter

Take it back in and see what he has to say about it.

Pictures would help. Just before COVID, I bought one with the extended mag, and both pistol grip and field stock. And, it had ammo holder and sling for $850 in mint condition. I can't remember if the gun was in the box, but I know the extra buttstock had the box still. In the current pricing, I am not sure but again pictures would help. Who knows, I might even be interested in another one.

CeraCoat is good, but not NP3 good. It is however fine in most instances. My pocket CCW pistol has been CeraCoat'd twice now. It gets a lot of sweat and salts on it during the hot summer months. I would bet big money that if I would have had it NP3, that it would outlast me.

Good. I was REALLY thinking about it. I have an original 11711 unfired, and a black version with the same items. But, I still almost exclusively shoot my inertia guns. Hopefully it went to a good home. ?

For our 20 gauge Montefeltro, it required more effort than any of my 12 gauge Benelli's. I loaded the shells for a while for my wife. After ~75-125 rounds down and up the tube, it let up. This was a nearly new looking HK import model from early 90's. Could have been sticky from it not being used, but removing the spring and follower and scrubbing it, and putting dry lube (never use wet in mag tube) nothing changed. Only actual use freed it up. We used live fire, but loading a snap cap repeatedly while sitting and watching TV might work too.

Here is the listed solution (from 7 years ago).

If he doesn't get it, PM me the info. He gets first dibs though.

More often than not, it is the recoil spring that goes into the buttstock that causes the bolt not to lock. If you tap forward the bolt handle and it rotates and clicks in, I'd bet that is what it is unless it is in fact dirty. Benelli has gotten an undeserved reputation for the bolt not locking when shooting heavy loads at high angles (and eventually any angle) with the factory spring. Sometimes it is the spring itself, other times crud gets down in there and mucks up the smooth travel. StrangerDanger has a great how-to somewhere on here if you want to tackle opening it up. Here it is: Here is the spring if you end up needing it. This goes into the buttstock portion. https://freedomfightertactical.com/collections/benelli-m1/products/the-fft First though, to your original question, I've gone well over a thousand rounds in between ANY cleaning. I normally clean more often than that, but it rarely is dirty. I always use only dry lube on friction surfaces on the bolt sliding portion, as well as on the frame rails where it meets. Your issue isn't a failure to feed, but another thing I have seen is people use wet lube in the mag tube. In the fall hunting, this will get dried dust and grasses inside and they it won't feed properly. Some of my fellow hunters were complaining about how Benelli sucked. Sometimes I'd buy it from them, clean it up properly, and then use it on our next outing together. Quite a few times, they ended up buying it back from me (after admitting it wasn't the guns fault).

RX, as a consumer, I really appreciate your openness and explanations for design choices. It's easy for one to sit here and say I'd do it this way, but when referring to bolt weight for instance, I wouldn't have thought of that until a product I would make (if I had the skills), didn't work. I wish more companies were like this. ?

I had lost track of this thread and didn't realize you had responded SD until it was bumped recently. I'll try to check that out soon. Thanks.

As far as current selling price, look at GunBroker.com. Do an Advanced Search. There is an option to show you ended sales and it has the selling price. This is more accurate than looking at just the current list price since some people inflate the price hoping to snag a sucker.

Clay target shooting encompasses a few different styles. If you are not a hunter, then a good O/U is what most seem to go for mostly, especially on trap. Personally, I used to have a shotgun for upland game, another for pheasant, yet another for sporting clays, another for trap, another for waterfowl, etc. The problem was every time I switched sports, I was ineffective for a bit until my muscle memory adjusted. Circa 1994, I heard about the Super Black Eagle that could shoot everything from 2.75" - 3.5" without adjustments. After a 6 hour trip to see and hold one, I saved my pennies and later bought one. In no time at all, I found I was better at all of the sports I enjoyed using a single gun. One by one all those other shotguns got sold except my Remington 1100LW .410. I am a better shot because of it. The old adage about "carry what you practice" regarding using your actual CCW gun for practice rings true here too.

For some reason, I think the new look makes it look cheap(ish). I like the older look better. I like the slab sides better too. While the C-stock might be more practical than folding, I'll still take the folders:

While you are technically correct, I was using SBE 1 to denote the original as a separate model. All 3 models are colloquially as SBE. So, I used 1 to denote I was basically asking if it was NOT an SBE 2 or 3. I am still rocking the original cast recoil rod link and springs in mine. I still (26 years now) put at least a couple thousand rounds a year through mine. Maybe I am just lucky. Maybe it is because I am meticulous in cleaning even though these don't need much except after a dunk in the water which has happened several times to me duck hunting. I don't know.

Like these? Oddly, they did not skyrocket in price like I expected them to with the craze with guns such as the SPAS-12 going for $4,500+ where 2 years ago they were $1,800. The SPAS-12, SPAS-15, and the M3 are the only ones I can think of off the top that has the pump/semi-auto functionality. There are probably others (if so, please remind me). I'll weigh in on this since I have (or have had) those mentioned... The M3 is a very versatile shotgun. I understand it could be ideal for police and security to be able to use less-lethal rounds. I believe the M4 shoots the softest of any of these inertia guns (not including my 20 gauge Montefeltro). However, I think the most versatile of the modern Benelli lineup is the SBE for hunting thanks to its 3.5" chamber. With the right combination of barrels, and other accessories it can go from competent home defense gun to goose/turkey hunting in a minute. M4 can do most of that, but with the shorter chamber, it limits its capability some particularly for large birds (Geese, cranes, etc) With the exception of my M4's, all of my current Benelli's are HK Import models. I've got an M1T, shot an M2 in competition until someone offered me way more than I had in it. I have these 2 M3T Folders as well as an unfired 11711 H2O M4, and a regular M4 with the c-stock, extended mag tube, etc. I've also got a 20 gauge Montefeltro and two SBE's, with all barrel options including both a complete SBE1 and SBEII set along with a slug barrel along with the required modified forearm with Leupold VX-2 SLAM scope (not pictured). When I was younger, we had an SL-80 (predecessor to the 121-M1 if I remember right). It was my very first exposure to the inertia system. Previously I had only been around recoiling barrel, gas-operated, pump, and break-action single shots. M1T: I have straight and pistol grip stock, and two barrels.

They'd probably still warranty it, but you'd likely be out the cost of the NP3 treatment.

Regarding whether it is a SBE 1 and SBE 2, I can't tell with the plastic over the barrel, is it a high rib model? Honestly, I think that is a SBE II and not 1. The triangular safety makes me think SBE II. I don't know if they had any camo models on 1. But, a SBE II would likely have a ComforTech stock and this one doesn't. Does it say Benelli USA on the side or Heckler and Koch? Are the chokes thread at the very tip of the barrel or back just a bit? This may have been what I refer to as an unofficial 1.5. Where they have aspects of both. The HK imported ones are desired due to their ability to ghost load. However, there is more parts availability for the SBE II models. Either way, you've got a great gun.Take care of it and it should last a lifetime. I've got at least 25 years on my original one and it is still going strong. If you ever decide to sell, I'm always open for another. ?

I don't use anything for magazines or practice racking shells from magazine or anything similar. Mine is JUST for dropping in the chamber and dry firing it to relieve the firing spring pressure. On my seldom used shotguns I used the "Snap Cap" brand. I used them for many of most of my guns already. However, for my SBE and 20 gauge Montefeltro of my wife's, we shoot them enough I wanted more longevity than I thought those might give. I got Tipton's for that. They have a spring in them instead of just the material most other have. These are what the Tipton's look like:

I doubt you'd sell an heirloom, but I'd be interested in a new original SBE 1. I've been using the same springs in my HK import SBE since 1995. Tens of thousands of rounds, including more than its fair share of 3.5" mags. Zero issues. Unless this is something used for defensive situations, I'd use it as is until I needed to change them. If concerned, order spares to have on hand. If you aren't used to these, one thing to note is these generally take at least 1oz dram shotshells to function properly, occasionally 1 1/8 oz. Are you sure yours is a SBE 1? For that time frame, it will be a Benelli USA model and most likely have the higher rib barrel. They did make the high rib for a brief time for the SBE I while still using the original chokes. Do you know if it has Mobil chokes or the Cryo version? Mobil chokes (threads at the very end of the barrel) should be SBE1. I believe all SBE II's use Cryo chokes. Also, the slug version of SBE I, and SBE II's have a longer barrel lug. Pictures might help explain what I am referring to:

Really? Hmm. They used to have one. It was simply called the Black Eagle. Super was later added when the 'super' long receiver allowing it to shoot 3.5" cartridges. I am certainly biased since I bought my SBE in '95, but they were quite light for the time, particularly with a semi-auto. They are still quite light, which can be a detriment when shooting 3.5" shells. Unless one would absolutely never shoot 3.5", I'd get it anyway. Like the old saying "better to have and not need than to need and not have". Still not sure why they would reuse the SBE name for a shorter chamber. M2's could already do 3" shells. I guess maybe it is for the name recognition.

This almost sounds like a proposed solution looking for a problem. As far as weight, it is personal preference. Back in the mid-90's, I bought a SBE for the capability of 2.75"-3.5" mags in a semi-auto. I ended up using it for all hunting seasons and sporting clays due to its lighter weight. Yeah, when we go to Canada hunting and I'm shooting up to 300 rounds of 3.5" mags during our time there, I occasionally wished for a lighter recoiling gun, but not so much that I'd want to carry more weight the rest of the seasons. Porting is always an option for recoil reduction. Weights can be added. Many like and use the mercury filled ones. A different recoil pad can help with the recoil as well though it will likely change the length of pull. Sounds like you may have been using something like this in your M1. The newer guns have the energy absorbing stock. It really does help. But, I'm not giving up my original HK M1, M3T, Montefeltro, and SBE's that all work perfectly. I like the low rib better anyway. I would think your M1 should be able to go below 1oz loads. My SBE's with its longer reloading stroke can do 1oz stock. My 3" Inertia Benelli's can shoot 7/8 oz loads with 99.9% reliability. But, I still use 1oz like you so I don't have that .01% failure to feed. Everyone that I know that shoots clays in most any fashion uses an Over/Under. Benelli already has the excellent 828u over/under. I would think the sub gauge inserts would work in these as it is. The Ethos Super Sport 28 gauge has almost all the features you noted, as well as those I mentioned. Being 28 gauge, there is already little recoil to worry about.

Perhaps no one answered because the forum and the internet is peppered with this type of information. Not trying to be mean, just pointing out a possible "why". Benelli's have thin barrels. That is a small part of why in general that they are lighter than much of the competition. I mention this because some models I know can't be cut down and re-threaded. However, since there is some choke material in there, a company like Briley maybe could do it. Remember that the choke is at the end of the barrel (muzzle), as such it is the last thing that touches the projectile(s) so get a skilled 'smith to do it. As Evolution mentioned, having screw-in chokes gives more versatility. Shotguns for centuries have had just a fixed choke with one size/type restriction. I think it was the 1960's where it was introduced in a production shotgun. If memory serves, it was a Winchester pump that kind of kicked it off. So, it is safe to say that people all over the world fed their families before screw-in chokes took over. Back then, if for some reason you needed a wider capability than your existing choke offered, you'd buy a whole barrel. That obviously makes it tough to take another option in the field with you while hunting. If I could only have a single choke for all my hunting needs, it would be "Improved Modified". Personally, I don't mind a "tactical" (I hate that over-used word) shotgun having a fixed choke as the ranges are purposely intended to be shorter range (than hunting shotguns, which are already very short range compared to rifles). That said, I would not ever buy a shotgun for hunting without them. There were also several attempts to make adjustable chokes such as the Poly-Choke. They worked OK, but never as well as individual choke. As mentioned above, different loads will behave differently through the exact same choke. Not as much as once believed, but barrel length plays a part in all that too. The old-time logic was a longer barrel gave you a tighter pattern and higher velocity. That may have been true based on my experience with blackpowder but with modern propellants, the powder burn is mostly over well before the end of the barrel of most shotguns. Also, note that though it may seem counterintuitive, going too tight of a choke can actually open up your pattern as your pellets can deform. Also, when using steel shot, there is a maximum restriction that it can be shot through. I think generally it is Modified though it does vary. Always check before shooting steel loads. For me, longer or shorter barrels are more for the swing characteristics. I've had my Super Black Eagle since 1995. At the time, I had a shotgun for hunting one thing (such as rising birds), and another for skeet, another for crossing birds, and another for deer hunting with slugs. Once I discovered the SBE, it was an eye opener. I slowly sold off all the different 12 gauge shotguns I didn't need anymore since I could do it all with that one gun. However, as time went on, it became obvious that the 28" barrel on an already long 3.5" receiver really was clumsy in the woods and also while turkey hunting. So, my quest started for shorter barrels. By then, I couldn't find any for the original SBE1, so I bought SBE2 barrels and also a slug barrel. Then, later I found the low rib original SBE type. I haven't shot several of the SBE2 barrels, but the SBE barrels I have shot, I can take the same choke from one barrel, put it in another barrel and the point of aim moves slightly, and groups change a marginal amount. It isn't noticeable in the field, but is evident on a patterning board. There is a TON of information out on the web too about how the choke restrictions change the pattern, generalized tables with actual measurements of how much restriction each choke has, what the intended range for each is, etc. This is one of many, but looked decent: https://chokefortrap.com/choke-tube-chart/ One last question. Are you going to do any hunting with this firearm, or is it only for defense? If the latter, how big of an area will you be defending (i.e. the size of the house/room)? I ask because you said you were interested in reaching out. In a typical house you won't need the range, but I understand the desire to load heavier loads like double or triple buck. I don't use a shotgun any more for home defense, but when I did, I had it loaded like this: Chamber: 000 buck. Magazine tube: slug, 000, slug, 000, slug, 000... My logic was the buck shot for a little spread and a little more efficiency for a target in the open. But, still had every other shot a slug in case they have heavy clothing or if they were behind a sheetrock wall.

I hear a lot about the need for a secure mount to ones shoulder and with shooting position on various Benelli shotguns. When I first bought my SBE in 1995, I would have failure to feed (FTF) issues when using less than 1oz DRAM. It would fire, eject the empty, then close on an empty bolt. They said it simply lacked the energy to push the bolt back to release the next round from the magazine. I found that was true because if I ghost loaded, it wouldn't do that for the one round. So, I grabbed several of my inertia guns to give them a test. For this, I grabbed a M1T and M3T folder both with 18.75" barrels I believe. I also grabbed a 20 gauge Montefeltro and a HK era Super Black Eagle. I figured the SBE, having the longest stroke and still having original weight springs (since I shoot 3.5" every fall while hunting), would be the first to fail without proper positioning. All of them I fired 2 magazines through them for a baseline. The shells are what I use for dove and quail each fall. The 12 gauge are Federal 1 oz DRAM #8 shot. All fired as expected. So, I repeated the first test on all of them with the gun against my shoulder, but not pulling back into it. Again, there were no failures. So at this point I decided to skip straight to extreme to save on ammo. I held the gun down across my body in the front, shooting to the left. I provided what was required to hold it, but zero resistance to the shot. It acted like a pendulum. The M1, M3, and Montefeltro all still fired normal. However, once again likely due to its longer bolt stroke, the SBE struggled a little. About once per magazine (of 5) I'd get what I described in first paragraph where it would fire, eject the empty, and close on empty bolt. Once again, as I found in 1995, ghost loading would prevent that from happening for that one additional round. I tried to make it as scientific as I could for this informal inertia action tests. I did not fire any of my M4's. My 11711 is staying in the box unfired, and the other one was clear in the back of the safe. I might try it at a later time and add to this if anything stands out. Gas guns shouldn't be effected by the support (or lack there of) at all due to the way they operate. However, we know that it does effect some guns. I couldn't find my recoiling barrel shotgun. I thought that might yield interesting results too. It's just as well. It was getting dark and the 'skeeters were horrible at my place that night.

My HK import Montefeltro 20 gauge has a silver trigger on it so it's not necessarily a new thing. If I remember right, it was made in the late 90's. I like gold accoutrements on some firearms. However, for this one with its shiny silver bolt, I prefer the silver trigger. I completely get the frustrations though. It ticks me off to be shown one thing and given another. Even if unintended, it is still feels like bait and switch. Back to gold triggers, I used to have an Ithaca/SKB XL900 12 gauge that had a game scene on both sides of the receiver, and a couple of gold appointed items. It was nice. I also still have have a Beretta 21a with high polished blue (this is not my gun, it was a picture I could find to show it)

I understand that it is a tool to some. Honestly, all my hunting arms are tools. They will get bumps and bruises but I still try my best not to. More than once I have fell down in the woods and I rolled over and landed on my back so the firearm stays good. This was particularly true on my (only) elk hunting trip. I had a Rem. 700 Titanium and a Leupold VX-6 (~$3,500). But, I was mainly worried about it being damaged and me not be able to finish my hunt after spending all that money. I also knew that may be the only time I ever get to go elk hunting. You may call BS on this but it's the honest truth. I went pheasant hunting with a group in northern Kansas. I knew most of the people but had never met the father of one of the guys. He had recently bought a new shotgun (mid-level trimmed 870 Remington). We get to the field and he takes out the shotgun. He then proceeds to walk over to a barbed wire fence. He scraped it on the fence on both sides of the stock, and the back of the receiver. I looked at his son, probably with disbelief in my eyes. He said he has many collectible guns that he takes care of. But, for ones that are a hunting tool, he does that to every new one. Then he can hunt without having to worry about it. He holds the gun with both hands through briars and brush and it is scraping all the time. I lift mine up to my chest or hold it in one hand up under my arm.