bambihunter

They do come up for sale, but you're in for a long wait. I put a saved search on GunBroker.com that had it notify me whenever a listing came up that matched my search. It took 7 years, but I finally got a 24" and 26" to go along with my 28" factory barrel. Ironically, I bought those two at the same time and they also had a 28" for sale. I only saw one other 28" for sale during that 7 year search. I did buy SBE2 barrels too as I already had the modified forearm for my slug barrel but like you, I didn't like the raised rib. Actually, it wasn't that I didn't like it per se, I didn't want to go back and forth between high and low ribs. Plus, I like originality when there is no reason not to be. You might be money and time ahead to buy a SBE1 with a good barrel in the length you want. Take the barrel off and put on yours. Then buy a SBE2 barrel and put on it and resell the SBE you bought (note that it has a new barrel).

I agree with NCswamp13, heat. It works for rusted nuts and bolts. Of course I am not talking about a torch. I'd start with a hair dryer. Then move up to a heat gun. I think I'd stop there though. I doubt the metal is thick enough to try to chill the choke then heat the outside of the barrel (cold shrinks the choke, heat swells the barrel). It's probably so thin it'd be nearly instantaneous. I assume you've looked at Numrich, Brownell's and Midway for the firing pin?

There's a gazillion of them on here. It looks just like the 11711 only all black. It's just a standard black M4 but swapped out recoil tube and put on collapsible stock, full length magazine, light mount, sling mount, etc. It's nothing special. They look just like this one that's available to buy already in that setup: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1084134056

From the manual: It looks like the chokes are looser than normal ones. The manual says this about normal chokes: Yes, as long as you use rifled slugs and do not use any choke tighter than improved cylinder.

Looks like you are doing quite a faithful reproduction. It's kinda funny. I have a mint SPAS-12 folder and the forearm and barrel guard is the part I dislike the most other than the idiotic redundant safety. Also, every pump of the action rubs on it so it slowly grinds away the finish at the contact points. Really, the SPAS-12 is an iconic shotgun, maybe simply because of its unique look, especially the folding stock with hook version. But, the Benelli M3 top folder is a MUCH better shotgun in every way in my opinion. The very rare (in the U.S) SPAS-15 fixes all the oddities of the SPAS-12 and gave it a detachable magazine.

The 11711 were extremely limited with some estimates being ~150 pieces. That's not even including the special editions like the Curator sets, 1 of 1000 HK era SBE limiteds, etc.

I've seen one actually sell for $7,500, but it was during COVID when prices were elevated. They usually go for at least $5k for legit 11711 NIB unfired examples.

One thing I'd recommend when getting your M4, or really any new gun for that matter, is to use it as it is for a bit. This accomplishes a couple of things. First, it will give the gun a good break in and test "as made". That way, if you add accessories and it quits functioning reliably, you know it was an add-on that caused it. Second, after using it, you may change your mind on altering it or decide you want different things than you initially did. If you can borrow a gun in your desired configuration before you buy the items that is the ideal way. I've had a SureFire light on a M3 folder for many years (maybe 15+) and it is still working great. I would imagine the newer brighter models would hold up as well, but I don't have as much experience with those. I've got one of the rare NP3 11711 model M4's that was factory in the configuration you mentioned. It is a safe queen. I built a black version to be the shooting M4 with C-stock, 7 round mag, etc. If you are wanting to make a "cool" talking piece or range toy, then the collapsible stock is great for that. For shooting sports or hunting, many don't like it. The collapsible stock is nice for storage however. For me, it just doesn't fit right. I think I am going to change out the 3 position for a 6 position piece from RXArms (a fellow forum member): https://rxarms.com/product-category/benelli-m4-parts-and-accessories/ to see if that helps fitment any. They also sell one piece magazine tube or +2, though I absolutely agree the one-piece tube is the way to go.

Like StreetSweeper56 eluded to, they ship with a shell limiter installed. These are used to limit the gun to 3 rounds. One in chamber and two in the magazine (of 2.75" or 3" shells) but as you found, 3.5" shells make it such that in many/most shotguns that limits them to only 1 in the magazine. If you are hunting a non-migratory and/or not-regulated species you can remote the plug limiter out through the magazine cap on the front of the forearm. The only thing I can think of that would be though would be buckshot for deer or for turkeys. All waterfowl, ducks, geese, etc all require plug limiters. On my Super Black Eagle, I bought a 2nd magazine limiter, and cut a little off at a time until I found the spot where it would allow me to fit two 3.5" shells. However, if you do this while hunting migratory species (in the USA), do NOT carry the shorter shells if they allow the magazine to hold more than 2 or you're back in the same situation. If you can carry 2 in the mag of 3.5" and you ONLY have 3.5" with you, then you are legal. Be safe and be legal, I have heard those are big fines.

https://www.shopbenelli.com/shotugn-barrels.html?Model=Super Black Eagle II&Per_Page=16&Sort_By=disp_order

You'd be better off selling it and getting a fixed stock version for several reasons. First, those are rare and people want them for what they are, exactly like they are. They are worth more in that configuration. You could likely sell the top folder and get 1.5x - 2x the cost of a what you are wanting to make. Second, you'll need to change a lot of parts to make it work, Benelli parts aren't cheap. Third, the barrel on those top folders are unique to them. They will work on regular stock as far as I know, but a folding stock won't work on a regular older M3 both because it locks into the rear sight which is in a slightly different position on the folders. On these older HK folders, they have a self contained recoil system that is kind of wrapped around the bolt. They don't have the recoil rod that the conventional stock needs to mount to. There is no direct-fit collapsible/telescopic stock for these, but I know people have made some fit from another model, seems like it might have been a Nova. It wasn't perfect, but looked good enough. To the best of my recollection (it's been 25 years since I had the fixed stock version), they have a recoil rod tube that goes down into the stock like the Super Black Eagle, M1, etc. That is what the stock bolts to. Here's a good diagram. Note that the M3 has been re-released and I don't think the new stock and recoil rod works on the older M3's. Here's a good look at how the conventional stock version works: https://www.midwestgunworks.com/benelli-m3/parts.html. The new stock may technically mount to it, but I don't think the fit the contours correctly. The recoil rods on the older ones of the HK era have a different thread pitch if I remember right. There's a few guys that take these apart and mix and match some, hopefully they will come along. I'll tag one that I think has done this on his M3's: @StrangerDanger Numrich schematic shows both stocks. I kept the one above as it shows only the fixed stock so it makes it a little less busy and confusing. Hopefully this will help. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/benelli/shotguns-benelli/semi-auto-shotguns/m3t-super-90-fold-st One more link to what looks like a Russian page of the M3 manual, shows there is a different part depending on whether you want a pistol-gripped style stock or straight field stock: https://img.allzip.org/g/60/orig/2210288.jpg

That must be a new policy. I had a bulge in the choke area of my 1995 era SBE back when it was fairly new. I sent it in to Benelli who was able to see wadding material in the stretch marks. They contacted Federal who said send it to them. They inspected it and saw the same thing. I then sent the rest of the box of ammo to them. It took about 6 weeks but they covered the barrel and even sent me another full box of ammo. Always listen for odd sounding shots when firing. They are easy to tell if you are alone, but admittedly really difficult (if not impossible) if you are in a busy public dove field.

As an M3 fan myself, I had considered swapping the handle(s) out on one or both of my M3T folding stock models. Then one day I was looking at them and it I realized that it would be quicker to just twist the lock and pump it and either continue to shoot in pump mode or switch it back to semi-auto mode and send it. Years later I started doing some low key shotgun shooting sports and I got fairly quick at loading a single round into empty chamber and hitting bolt release or cycling out a dud with my left hand over the top while maintaining hold with my right hand in the shooting position. This is not on my M3...

Is there a question? Did you meant to post pictures so we could see your project? I'm going to answer what I think you may be asking which is where to find pieces to fix it up and/or what to look for. Many of the SBE2 parts will fit on the SBE1. I know with 100% certainty that the forearm from the SBE2 works with the SBE1, and I am ~95% sure the buttstock does as well. If you swap out the forearm, it would also allow you to swap out the barrel to a later SBE2 high rib type with the later Crio chokes. Some prefer the low rib, some prefer the high rib. But, by the time you refinish the original, and especially replace missing chokes, possibly clean threads, fix dents, etc. it will likely pass the cost of a new SBE2 replacement barrel. On the SBE, the top half of the receiver is the barrel. So, by replacing the forearm, buttstock, and the barrel, you've swapped out most of the stuff viewable from the outside. If the lower receiver and trigger guard assembly is in good shape, or can be refinished, you should have it looking new. While you have the buttstock off, it is a good time to check the recoil spring assembly. These can get rusty if not treated right and/or jammed with crud which can cause feeding issues. The bolts on these are generally solid so a quick cursory cleaning should likely be all is needed there. Shine a light down the mag tube when you have it disassembled and see if it looks clean and shiny. If not, pull the mag spring and give it a good cleaning. Only use DRY lube in the mag tube. Otherwise, it will pick up dust and dirt off the shells you put in it when you start using it and it will gunk up fairly quickly. I've bought a lot of semi-auto's that the owners were sick of because they jammed all the time and almost invariably, the problem was wet lube in the mag tube.

Price and pics? I'd be interested depending on price.

There's always some on Gunbroker. That's where I bought all but my original one I bought in '94. I also bought all my extra barrels, forearm, scope, mounts, etc. Sometimes you might have to watch for a few weeks/month(s) to get a nice one at a good price, but they are out there. Expect a nice example with minimal handling marks to go for at least $1,800 USD. If you have an account, set up a "Saved Search". It will email you with new listings. Here's one if you want to use it: https://www.gunbroker.com/Semi-Auto-Shotguns/search?Keywords=h%26k benelli super black eagle&PageSize=96&Sort=13&View=1

Yes it will work but they use a different forearm. In fact, to the best of my knowledge all the original SBE's slugs used what became the standard forearm for all SBE's in SBEII line up. This makes sense so they don't have to produce two types. The main part you have to look for is the recoil lug immediately in front of the barrel loop that holds the barrel to the forearm. In the picture below, it shows the differences in SBE1 and SBE 2 barrels (you can ignore the red since it is only relative for shot barrels, but red shows rib height and yellow shows recoil lug length). The bottom is SBE 1 shotgun/field barrel and the middle would be SBE 1 slug and all SBE 2 barrel types which use the longer lug. You can do one of two things. You can either buy a modified forearm, which last I looked were ~$90 or so. Or, you can use a Dremel or similar tool and open up that channel to make room for the longer lug. For my personal guns I just bought the forearm but I have helped a couple friends Dremel theirs out and it wasn't loose or anything after we were done but we went very slow and kept it nice and tight. We didn't want a wobbly forearm. Edit, Numrich has them. This is for the black version: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/981680b This is the schematic for the SBE II (NOT the 1, but this is what you'd want for correct forearm): https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/benelli/shotguns-benelli/semi-auto-shotguns/super-blackeagle-ii

@3Goose This one looks in good condition and just came up for sale with a decent price if you are still looking for one: https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/1070380697 Again, not mine. No affiliation, just helping you find what you are after. I have a saved search for HK Benelli on Gunbroker.com so I get emails every day so I review them to see if there is anything I wanted and saw it and remembered this thread.

If it is like the SBE 1, then the original forearm can be "Dremel'd" out to fit to fit the longer recoil lug needed for the slug barrel, as well as all SBEII barrels. Not sure the same applies to the SBE3, but since you've received no replies in 2 months, I thought I'd mention it. If you choose this method, just go slow and the same forearm can still be used for both barrel types.

Take your time, these are NOT cheap! I've seen them sell for over a grand so it is worth not marring it up.

I would bet it can't accept an extended magazine. I know my old HK example cannot. Simple test is to take off the nut off in front of the forearm that holds the barrel on. If that loop is bigger than the diameter of the rim of the shell, then maybe. However, most of the Montefeltro's have a small barrel ring at the front of the fore end that is much smaller than a cartridge. I haven't actually handled the Silver but I suspect it is the same.

@Caribou, 6 posts are required before one can send personal messages due to previous spamming issues on the forums. I'd be careful about just adding a couple more posts (make them relevant to this or other topics), but then you should be able to after that. It shows you have 4 posts currently.

Are you experiencing any issues with yours the way it is? If not, spend that money putting lead down range through skeet or even defensive shotgun courses.

If I am am not mistaken it is actually the length of the trimmed hull before they load and crimp it. That would make sense as it would be a repeatable measurement whereas with possible case stretch, after firing measurements may not be exact.

I believe the Ethos has the same small barrel ring as the Montefeltro. If that is the case, then they cannot be extended. Take your magazine cap off and hold a shell up to it. If it is smaller than the outside of the shell, then there are no magazine extension options as the shell obviously would need to pass through it to extend.