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bambihunter

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Everything posted by bambihunter

  1. No, the others won't fit. Even a regular "Black Eagle" (non-super) won't work due to its 3" only chamber. Even if the length of chamber were the same, they are of different design anyway. The M1/M2's go INSIDE the receiver whereas the SBE barrel makes up the top portion of the receiver with nothing covering it. I only mentioned it previously because they are both cheaper, and regarding the SBE I barrel, easier to find.
  2. Just a suggestion (take it or leave it). I'd suggest sticking with the same type as your existing unless your old barrel is no good anymore. I've tried going back and forth between the low rib of SBE1 and the higher rib of SBE2 barrels and it throws me off every time for a bit. You already know about the recoil lug difference, but as you can see from the picture of mine below, the ribs vary too. You may also want to match the type of chokes you have as well. The early SBE1 chokes had the treads at the muzzle. The later Crio versions had the threads ~3/4" from muzzle. My 26" SBE II barrel (2nd from top), is actually a transitional model. It uses the earlier Mobil chokes, but has the high rib and longer recoil lug of the later ones that usually have the Crio chokes. . Benelli's are not cheap guns, nor are their barrels. However, if you are patient and you watch, you can occasionally find them for a good price. Still, that is going to be $400+ for the SBE's. I have found better deals for M1 barrels with the shorter chamber. Here's a search you can save (if you have a GB account) so it can either send you new listings, or make it a quick one-click search to find them. This one is looking for Benelli SBE shotgun barrels: https://www.gunbroker.com/Shotgun-Barrels/search?Keywords=benelli sbe&Sort=13&PageSize=48 This one is for Benelli Super Black Eagle shotgun barrels: https://www.gunbroker.com/Shotgun-Barrels/search?Keywords=benelli super black eagle&Sort=13&PageSize=48
  3. I haven't had to use Benelli warranty system since the mid-90's. Back then it was incredible. For me then, a $1k gun took a fair amount of overtime and saving to get. Inflation adjusted, I don't know if that is more than ~$2,200+ of the current crop, but thinking back to what it took me to get my first Benelli (SBE), I probably wouldn't be happy either. Given the state of the world at the moment, I do think they could have given you the choice. Where they say we can do what they did, or, you can wait for an unknown amount of time until we start producing more. At least then it would be your choice. Still not ideal, but neither are the times. I will say that I have abandoned companies after incidences with less consequences than yours. Remington was 1 sentence away from me leaving them and selling all of their stuff I owned (probably ~35 guns at the time), because they wouldn't warranty/fix the weak firing pin spring on my 700MLS muzzleloader; probably a $4 part. I had sent the gun to Remington over a half dozen times. It kept coming back as "no trouble found". Every time I would send it with caps, and every time it came back just as clean/dirty as it left and with the exact number of caps. I tried all locally available #11 caps and later musket caps. There is zero chance they ever fired it to test. It may take 3-5 times cycling the bolt to re-cock it, and then firing over the same cap again again and again before it would go off. One guy finally had an aftermarket 209 bolt mod kit sent (from Canada with French instructions). I really think he either paid for it out of pocket, or some slush fund. I have never had another misfire with that gun after that. The spring was 3x as long and stronger than the factory one.
  4. The new links also worked for me whereas the originals did not. Thanks for the share. ?
  5. For combat/conflict on the move situation: Though I have never cared for them, if time allowed, I'd probably get an AR with a couple of calibers such as .458 SOCOM, 300 blackout or whisper, and maybe even the .223 (which I am not a fan of). If I carried a second long arm, I'd probably pick my M3T folder, or M4. For survival, my original HK import Benelli SBE. In fact, if I could have only one gun, this would be it. I've got slug barrel for it with QD scope mounts and Leupold Ultimate Slam 2x7sx32 scope as well as a short and long barrel, etc. For just survival or a slower paced conflict situation, I'd want a decent mid to long range rifle in a capable caliber. Of my current options, I'd grab my .338 Lapua. It is actually fairly light with carbon fiber barrel and stock. I have both a suppressor and muzzle brake for it, and 3 options for scopes. This gun outshoots my abilities which while they aren't military sniper good, they aren't bad For a handgun in both scenarios, it would be in 10mm auto. Most likely a G20 for battle, G40 for survival. I've got those plus I CCW a G29. I'd consider the 5.7 too, but I am currently in between them. I have plenty (absurd amount) of ammo for 10mm auto. I have quite a few guns in this caliber, and I shot them all a lot. So, I collected brass for over 25 years (more than a 55 gallon drums' worth). I finally bought a reloading setup back about 6 years ago and now all but the couple thousand rounds I've shot already this spring, those are all loaded now and ready to go. ?
  6. I've got a couple of the old HK import M3T top folders, as well as a couple M4's. Though I love my M3's and the added capability of the semi/pump design which is like the SPAS-12 only much better, I think the gas operated M4 makes for a better SBS. Just my opinion, others might disagree. And, I say that as a guy who things that inertia shotguns ARE Benelli shotguns.
  7. Most fixed "tactical" shotguns will have something between a cylinder bore (or no real restriction), to improved modified. Others that have tighter restriction might exist, but I don't know of them. Most will say CYL on the barrel indicating cylinder choke. Those are capable of slugs if the gun itself is.
  8. I'd ask for a refund or exchange. I have 30 year old guns that get used at the range and around the house that don't have that many nicks and marks on them. My hunting guns do get dinged up like that, but even then it takes many years.
  9. What's the aversion to GB? They are THE place to buy/sell firearms online. If you want to know what it will bring, put it on there (or at least search completed items for similar guns). Right now, it seems like a lot of these types of items do change value fairly quickly and for unknown reasons. Recently, I have seen the standard Super Black Eagle 1 (both HK marked), sell for $3800 and $4300. A gun that a year ago would have been $1200-1500. Here's an advanced search on closed auctions (includes both those that sold and did not sell) and -hk: https://www.gunbroker.com/Semi-Auto-Shotguns/search/completed?Keywords=benelli m1 -hk&Timeframe=1&Sort=1&PageSize=48 You probably know, but those of us who like HK Benelli's, it is nothing to due with the HK name in and of itself. Rather, part of it is because they were the original version and had the anti-jam feature which cleared the elevator if a shell slipped by the shell stop. Of course, this design when abused, became infamous as "Ghost Load". They later had to redesign it without that benefit. I also prefer the lower rib of the early ones and not big on the comfort-tech stock either. I guess I am hung up on the originals, I bought my SBE in late '94 or Jan '95 and have loved it ever since. Now I've got around a dozen HK Benelli's such as SBE, BE, M1T, M3T folder, Montefeltro, etc. Only non's are my pair of M4's. No idea why I bothered writing all this. I guess it is because some of us aren't big on HK. I don't own any of their guns though I'd love a 10mm auto MP5. For many, looking for the HK stamp is an easy way to tell it is in the desired format.
  10. Hmm, my reply doesn't show up from last week. Doge, I appreciate the info.
  11. Most places, I see options for the M1 and M2 bolts, it excludes the SBE. This makes sense to me as it is capable of the longer 3.5" shell. But, just today I have seen several things for sale bolt/bolt body related saying it will fit all 3. Which is true? I can check it out when I get home in 3 hours, but I may buy one item that ends before then if it is true that they all use same bolt and bolt body. Thanks.
  12. M2 barrel will only work on the M1 with permanent modifications to the gun in a couple of places on the forearm including the recoil lug and barrel ring. The M1 however is a drop-in for the M2, though there will be excessive gap around where the barrel ring goes.
  13. Since you haven't had any replies in ~3 weeks, I'll chime in with something close... I've got a rifled slug barrel for both my M1 and my original (SBE1) HK import. I got it for my SBE largely because I absolutely love that gun. I bought it ~1994 and have said that if for some reason we could only have a single gun, it would be that one. So, I bought it, and a Leupold Ultimate Slam 2x7x32 and put it on their QR mounts so I can use the open sights if desired. The states I hunt have no requirements for shotgun only for big game. I tried a variety of slug loads through my SBE. Some were better than others, but most were perfectly capable of "Minute of deer" at 150 yards. At that point the projectile is really dropping like a brick already so I never tested beyond that. In years past, I used to revel in hunting in the thick using bows, handguns (10mm), and a .44 mag carbine. This slug combo is more effective than any of those. I've also got some big bores such as .444 Marlin, .45-70 Govt. .450 Marlin, etc. Those are probably better after the 125 yard mark, but I have yet to ever have a deer move from its spot when stuck by a slug. Though I haven't tested the smaller sabot ballistic tip slugs that much, they appear to be able to stretch the range out to around 200 yards. Slugs can be expensive and since it was more for fun and not legal necessity, my tests stopped without many being fired. Pic below shows the slug barrel and modified forearm (required for the SBE1's to shoot later slug barrels), but does not show my Leupold scope or mounts.
  14. There is a lot of previous threads on this so I won't reinvent the wheel and go into full detail. I will say that until I read an article today, I didn't think ANY M2's could ghost load but allegedly some are supposedly HK marked, and early ones can do it. There's two ways to know if yours can do it. One, try the procedure. But, if you haven't done it, one can't be sure. Ghost Loading on a SBE with its 3.5" chamber is quite easy. But, the shorter chamber of the M1/2/3 make it a little more exacting. Way to visually check is to remove the bolt body. Look on the bottom. All of them have a grove just a bit back from the bolt face. If there is another grove near the back on that same side, it cannot natively ghost load. If this is what yours is, your options are to do one of the following in increasing expense: 0. Just leave it as it is. It was designed to function the way it was so that it could clear the next round if the shell stop happen to miss a round. It was not meant to be used to intentionally load more rounds in the gun itself. It does that fine however. All my Benelli's are HK import models and all can ghost load except my M4's. I load a round on the carrier very rarely even though that is initially why I bought most of the rest of mine as HK marked (after I bought my first SBE ~1994 and found that by accident). It is much more cost effective to get an extended magazine. If you are trying to use this as a cheat device while hunting game animals with a shell limit, don't do it! Game wardens are well versed in this. If the desire is for competition, then you'll only ever use it at the beginning. It is too finicky to do under stress and timers. Learn to dual/quad load with or without an extended mag. 1. File the groove flatter or completely. I do not recommend this method at all, but I have been shown it does work. I would wonder about longevity without that rear part riding on the rails any longer. 2. JB weld, then file smooth the where it is the same depth as the rest of the rail on the bolt 3. Have it professionally welded up. Then they can re-harden the metal properly, and then have it coated again. This is quite expensive ($300+) and only trust well known places. Don't have your local weld shop do it... 4. Buy an earlier style bolt. They very rarely come up for sale, but this is an option as well. I've seen them go for well over $500. Silly when you realize that a lot of times you can get the gun with it already for around twice that. Final thought. Money spent on a modified/extended carrier, maybe even speedloaders, then buying ammo and practice, practice, practice will yield much better results than ghost loading will.
  15. 5 years later... I'd also check the recesses where the locking lugs lock into. Could also be debris down in the hammer pivot area in the trigger group. Or, unlikely, but maybe a light hammer spring. If it is relatively new tsbright, I'd contact Benelli and let them look at it.
  16. Just a thought. If you don't have sentimental attachments to the M1, you might consider selling it as it is. Many people, myself included, look specifically for unmodified/unmolested HK import models. The M2 is already ready to go with many of these, and have more aftermarket support. You might come out ahead, or at least break even to sell this one and buy the M2. Then, you can let your M2 mods go crazy and likely not harm the value at all, likely increasing it instead. That is just my opinion, I am sure some others disagree.
  17. At first, I couldn't even read that site. Too many videos, animations, and other things meant to catch your eye. To me, they mess with my motion sickness issues and start causing eye strain and vertigo in short order. Thankfully, I was able to get them uBlocked (origin) so I could actually read it. I've got M1, M3, M4, Montefeltro, and SBE (multiples of some of these). As they mention gas guns are slightly softer shooting in standard and 3" loads. Since the M4 can't do 3.5", I can't compare it to my SBE. One thing hardly any sites mention is while gas guns do have softer recoil, they do this my a couple of things. One, gas guns are heavier than inertia guns which that in itself will reduce felt recoil. Inertia also has more of a sudden recoil instead of the longer push feeling of the recoil. Think .45 acp and 10mm auto fired from same type of gun. The 10mm is a lot snappier than the .45. I had read a real interesting article on it on one of the recoil pad manufactures sites but can't find it now. I was curious about that John Wick screen still shot. The lighting at the end of the barrel looks like they were trying to show it shooting as a double barrel with the magazine firing too. At first I thought it was from movement of the gun during recoil since the empty is just starting to eject. But, I'd think that be dark colored instead of light.
  18. I'd buy those but it won't take my login info on AR15 website for some reason. Reset password doesn't send it to me either. Not sure what the deal is.
  19. Well, I learned something new today then. Interesting info on earlier chokes. One idea that might interest you regarding the chokes. Could someone make essentially an adapter so you wouldn't have to cut or re-thread the barrel. This would save any inherent collector value, but would give you what you are after. It would look like a barrel segment and would have to be custom cut to fit your current/existing threads at one end. Then, extend the barrel by the length needed in order to have the thickness to then use a different type of screw-in choke. In other words, one end would screw in like a proper factory choke to your existing threads. Then, there'd be a small tube that would look like an extended choke but it would have internal threads at the other end to convert it to your desired choke pattern. I have a SPAS-12 which has external threads and I am having something made that will convert those external threads from those obsolete chokes, to the internal Benelli Mobil chokes. I realize those are going out of favor too, but I have around a dozen Benelli's that all use them. Only my pair of M4's use the newer chokes.
  20. Mr. Yough, that should be the case, though there are spring kits available for 3.5" SBE's to shoot 5/8oz dram loads. Personally, with both my SBE's, and all my other Benelli's, I am fine with el-cheapo ammo as long as it is 1oz dram.
  21. I've never heard of anything other than Mobil Chokes in the M1. And, pretty much since HK imported hunting shotguns for them, I have only seen either Mobil or Crio. Could this maybe have been cut down and use another type choke like Rem-Choke, etc? For Benelli autos, if the threads are inside, right at the end, they are Mobil. If the threads are inside, and ~3/4" from muzzle, they are Crio. If they are on the outside, it is old. LOL Seriously though, those I believe use the Franchi type choke system but not sure of that part. There may be a few crossover models though. For instance, I've seen some Benelli USA models that could Ghost Load. I've seen some HK models that have high rib barrels, and other odds and ends, but those are just during that crossover period in late 90's early 2000's.
  22. You may know, but in case not... You can enlarge the recoil lug area on your forearm to make it function for both. I am like you and wanted to not do that and was eventually able to get the setup for my SBE1, but it was black and even that took a while. So, I've done it right on one SBE, and Dremeled the other one to fit. I've got pictures of what the area should be enlarged to in order to use both. Believe it or not, the modified forearm actually feels just as tight on the older barrels as it does the newer ones.
  23. I thought they stopped making the M3's for more than a decade. Is that not true Doge? I have two, top folders like your bottom one. Both HK marked.
  24. Wow, it is very obvious I don't get on here often huh? I just saw thanks to the latest bump. The one I am selling/trading is the one above the gun and NOT in the gun in the first picture. The last picture shows the only blemishes I can find. It is truly nearly mint and is in the original serial matching early box. I'd probably be better off putting it on GB. Due to the condition, I think it might sell well there. I do have a M2 field length barrel that I may sell too. I am not willing to cut this M1 forearm in order for it to fit.
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