bambihunter

The original SBE is what drew me to Benelli. It was to remove the need for multiple shotguns, one for each type of activity. While having several isn't bad in and of itself, I always took a little bit of shooting (and often misses) until I readjust to the different firearm. The 3.5" SBE (1) fit the bill. Since the both the SBEII and the Super Vinci are capable of that, it removes that variable. The modular aspect of the SV is interesting but I find the curve lines on the forearm don't feel right in my hands. They do look "sportier". I've seen that bolt setup before and it is slick. If I remember right, that is real similar to what my M3T's have. Since you listed deer as something it will be used with, it would depend what your hunting locations' laws are. If you are required to, or prefer to hunt with slugs, then this may be the differentiating feature. Is there a slug option for the Super Vinci? I bought a SBEII barrel and modified forearm for my HK SBE and it shoots very well. So much so that it outshoots my eye's range. I ended up getting a 2x7x32 Leupold SLAM scope and put it on with QR mounts so either is an option. Regular slugs can work, but when comparing them to sabot slugs, there is no comparison in regards to accuracy. This may truly be a situation where a trip to a Benelli dealer will be well worth the time and expense. Call around and find someone who has them both in stock. When I first read about the SBE, I made a ~5-6 hour round trip just to go see and hold one. $1k to us in 1994 was a big chunk of change so I had to be sure. Also, sometimes the thought of one or the other product sounds good, but when you put them in your hands, a clear winner jumps out. I used to want a Pontiac GTO when they were re-released in the 2000's. They were one of the early LS cars and actually had some power for the time. I went to test drive one and was in and out of the seat in 20 seconds. Yeah, this isn't going to work... So, I stuck with my older cars instead.

Or, maybe wait another 24 hours. The outcome of the election will have a big impact on these types of guns. One side, the price will drop some, then slowly go back to around what it was. If the other side wins, who knows...

Why is that? Do those USA made parts have to go through some government verification process or something? My uneducated self would think made here, stamped that it was made here, would be all that was needed. Just curious...

I was going to post the same thing as Ball did above. If you are by yourself, set up your phone to record video and shoot. Have someone at the range load a snap cap instead of the round. If you flinch when you fire, that is your problem. But, if you do that countless times and see nothing in the flinch or yanking the trigger, the next place I would look is your scope mounts. I can't even begin to tell you how many gun, scope, or ammo accuracy issues were in fact, loose scope mounts or rings. It is a relatively easy check on most. If you used a torque wrench when you put them on, it is even easier to tell if they are backing out. If they are, a little Loc-Tite Blue to hold them in place.

Some go heavy rounds from the start. While that has some merit to it. I always took the opposite approach. I shot the lightest load I wanted to shoot. If it worked 100%, then you are good to go. If it did not, THEN start shooting heavier rounds. Why work around a problem that may not exist in your particular weapon? For the M1 and M2's, with their 3" chamber I haven't ever had to go to heavier/hotter loads. In my original 1994 vintage H&K import Super Black Eagle with its 3.5" chamber, I only had to quit shooting loads less than 1 ounce. I can still shoot the Wal-Mart el-cheapo 2.75" 1 oz loads. Though physics tells me it should matter, any 1 oz 2.75" load I've ever fired through it worked, even light recoil shells. And, comparatively, I hadn't ever found a 7/8 oz load of any FPS that it would shoot reliably. Now, 24 years later, still shooting the same spring, with firing probably 200 3.5" shells per year plus all the normal bird loads, I STILL have to shoot 1oz 2.75" loads through it.

1. Personally, I'd consider that type of device something that would be used to and from the range/hunting area. At home, I'd suggest a safe first and foremost. If that is not available or an option, then I'd get the trigger lock type. I use a "snap cap" and dry fire the gun into it so that neither the recoil spring nor the trigger spring is under tension. 2. Is there a reason you are going to shoot slugs only? Range rules? Make sure you match the slug type to choke. Sabot slugs are meant to be shot from a rifled slug barrel. A rifled slug is designed to be shot through smoothbore barrels to potentially impart some spin into the projectile for stabilization (though that is a contested idea). So, I'd guess you are running the latter since you mention chokes though rifled choke tubes do exist. For the short period of time that I shot slugs through a smooth barrel, I just used Cylinder bore choke, or at the most, and Improved Cylinder choke. 3. The advantage to a muzzle brake on ANY gun is for recoil reduction. Some are more needed and/or more effective than others. A .22lr, the difference is imperceptible. However, on a .50BMG, you'll never want to shoot it any other way. The M4 will be in between. But, it isn't all positives. Anytime porting or a muzzle brake is added, the noise level towards the shooter goes up. Depending on the environment you are shooting in, it can really increase it a lot. I don't mind shooting ported guns at the range where everyone will be wearing hearing protection. But, I never, ever, buy one to use while hunting as I generally don't use ear protection then.

I've got a tactical barrel that I was going to list on GB. I think it is 19" with a fixed cylinder choke. It's the barrel that is NOT on the gun in the picture below.

I don't have an M2, but I have just about every other Benelli Mx model. I know the receiver extension on the SBE requires the bolt to be fairly close to the right spot during assembly or it is hard to seat. I've not noticed that on my M1 really, but that is on thing to look at. You might consider some dry spray lube where it looks like it is tight. In all honesty, I think guns built on the tighter side of the tolerances tend to shoot better. I know for sure this is true on ~10 of my 10mm 1911 handguns. Some were so tight they wouldn't function 100% reliably until I had a couple hundred rounds through them. But, they are incredible shooters.

Nothing quite like a 9 year old necro post. LOL

Did you mean 6.5mm? Great write-up. I always appreciate reviews that say why one purchased what they did. Most everything here did. Kudos. This shows the reviewer didn't just happen to pick something up because it was available at the local gun store and haven't tried anything else. You mentioned that you wi I could see that for tactical guns. I absolutely would not want them on my hunting guns Though not really an accessory, I'd add some spray dry lube for maintenance. I use dry spray and nothing else in mag tube and recoil rod, and other places that I felt would benefit from it.

Good pro-con write up. I will say that regarding weight, a few ounces off the gun equals a pound on the shoulder. At least that was the old saying. Simply put, the lighter the gun, the more recoil you will have against your shoulder. I'm not sure you'll shave enough off to notice on an already light recoiling shotgun, but you certainly do with bigger bores.

The ones with the threads at the very end were called Mobil chokes and they pre-dated the Crio series. I have yet to be able to scientifically find a difference in accuracy between the SBE1 and SBE2 barrels (Mobil and Crio respectively) on the same gun. I have literally counted pellet holes in cardboard and all fell within the margin of error of each other. Perhaps they generally have more difference than that. I don't shoot the SBE II barrel much anymore as going back and forth from low to high rib throws my instinctive aim off and I have to relearn it again.

I've also seen photos of barrels where they left gouges in the barrel. Nice idea, but I don't think they are practical either. If you want some fun, just shoot "Dragons Breath" loads at night. That makes all the tacti-cool guys and kids go woooowwww. It too is all for show unless your attacker happens to be standing in a puddle of fuel or fireworks. LOL

SD, that is one of the best write-ups I've seen on the various models; even better than I have seen from Benelli themselves.

Besides being stamped on the receiver, some models show LE on the box as well. Several of those above show that. For instance the 11711 has the letters GRNS LE which stands for Ghost Ring Night Sights (I think it is night sights anyway) - Law Enforcement.

If yours is also feeding two shells from the magazine at once, it should be the magazine ammo stop not the ejector.

The bolded parts above should be telling the answer. Sell the SBEII and stick with what works. I've probably shot tens of thousands of shells through my SBE1, with 100+ being 3.5" mags every year. After figuring out the ammo specifics that it wouldn't cycle 7/8 oz loads properly (it would fire, eject, then close on empty chamber), mine has performed flawlessly since I bought it new Dec-1994.

That's true. The reusing of the H2O moniker was in poor taste in my option. At least they could have done H2O-II. Cerakote is a decent protective finish, but it is not to the level NP3 protection for sure.

Well, they won't technically 'function' the firearm, but all do the task at hand. Personally, I use A-Zoom for my rifle and pistol. These are just to take the tension off the spring after a range session, hunting, and cleaning. So, they might get fired a dozen times or so a year. However, for some reason, I prefer the spring type for shotguns and I prefer Tipton's among that type.

The longer the chamber, the easier it is to ghost load. I can do my SBE very quickly and hit it right every time. However, the M1 and Montefeltro's are slower and a little finicky. No, not a single malfunction; Ever! Remember that this wasn't designed to carry an extra shell. Instead, it was a way for the gun to clear itself without jamming if the shell release let two go by. It is designed to hold back from the magazine tube until the carrier is clear. That said, I have only done ghost loads on my HK imported Benelli's but it works on all of those (Montefeltro, M1T, M3T, SBE)

Remarkable, note that he originally said M1 S90, not SBE. Though both are great guns, that generally will effect the price. The SBE's generally sell for ~15% higher all things being equal. But, in this panic buying time, the opposite might be true if it is set up tactic-cool. ?

When you can build one for the less price, yes. But, since they are rather rare, they will hold a certain appeal to collectors. Depends if you are after a gun to abuse, shoot, or to collect. I have countless guns in my collection that I have for no other reason than they are rare.

The 11794 isn't what he's after. Those are Cerakote whereas the 11711 are NP3. They were also quite rare due to their configuration that really shouldn't have been able to be sold to us mere mortals (civilians).

You might also look at the SBE II barrels. But, if you are not already familiar, there is a difference between the SBE1 and SBE II barrels. The SBE II barrel uses the newer Crio Chokes which have a different thread depth location. The SBE 1 choke threads are at the very tip of the barrel whereas later Benelli's including SBE II have the threads ~3/4: down into the barrel. They are not interchangeable. The II also have a longer recoil lug under the barrel by the ring. If you put a SBEII barrel on a SBE, you'll have to Dremel out the forearm a bit to make it fit or modified forearm can be purchased. Or, if you have a factory SBE 1 slug gun, those already have the modified forearm. The big thing is that they have a higher, more angled vent rib. If you just move to it, then it isn't an issue as you'll adjust to it, or change the shims to make it fit. But, if you intend to go back and forth, it will throw you off every time you switch between them. If you do go the SBEII route, I can link a previous post with pictures of how to modify the forearm. I don't know if you are still in need of one, but you might try Gunbroker.com. They still show up on there from time to time. I bought one of the HK SBE's and all the barrels as well as the modified forearm shown in the pic below on there. If you look close at the pictures, you can see the difference in the lugs and rib height. I also edited a 2nd picture to point out those differences. You can find one on Armslist occasionally as well as GunBroker if you are patient. In fact, if you have an account, I did the steps for a search for "Benelli Super Black Eagle" in the shotgun barrels section: https://www.gunbroker.com/Shotgun-Barrels/search?Keywords=benelli Super black eagle&Sort=13&PageSize=24 And, just "Benelli SBE" in the shotgun barrels section:: https://www.gunbroker.com/Shotgun-Barrels/search?Keywords=benelli&PageSize=24&Sort=13&View=1&PageIndex=1 Then, when there, log in (if not already), and then click "Save this Search". It will ask if you want to be notified of a listing. Check yes and now you'll get an email every time one comes up for sale. You may need to further edit the filter to suit your needs.

The same issue that causes the click, often causes a similar issue of firing out of battery. There are several other causes for firing out of battery including the ammo itself, dirty bolt lug, log slots on the barrel, etc but I'd still start with the same steps starting with other ammo options. If I remember right, the click is caused from being further from the locked state and it results in the light, but variable primer strikes and therefore doesn't fire. This is the most common indicator/issue. The firing out of battery issue can be caused by the bolt being closer to the locked position than the click, but still not fully locked. This allows the firing pin to hit the primer hard enough to fire, but with the bolt not locked in place, it thrusts it rearward while there is still pressure in the barrel. If you're comfortable tearing the SBE down a bit, I'd start with what I mentioned in the post above. First and foremost check the area around where the lugs on the bolt rotate into the barrel. If they are dirty, I use those plastic picks available from most gun stores and also from Harbor Freight. But, if those are nice and clean, remove the barrel and bolt. Then, remove the buttstock and recoil spring and give the recoil tube and spring a very thorough cleaning. If any cleaning patches come out rusty, then use your preferred rust remover and keep cleaning until the cleaning patches come out completely clean. There are a gazillion posts and videos on the web for the steps to remove the stock and recoil spring. If it was particularly dirty or you did find rust, then after cleaning it, use a DRY spray-in rust inhibitor/lubricant. I use Jet-Lube 13241 just because we used to use it at a manufacturing facility I used to work at. There are other decent ones out there too. But, always stick with dry lubricants only for both the magazine tube as well as the recoil tube. Wet lube will attract dust, unburnt powder, and during fall bird hunting, dried grasses and other debris. Not a pretty sight. I've made a lot of extra money over the years by buying guns from hunting buddies or friends of friends that were jam-o-matics. I'd give them a good cleaning of the mag and recoil tube, and they'd work great. Most of them had used a wet lube and got clogged up. Some ended up buying the gun back after they saw it working flawlessly again and I told them what was wrong. If you already have the stainless tube model and/or it is very clean and no rust, then I'd consider replacing the recoil spring. They are inexpensive and many people also take the opportunity to put in a Wolff +25% spring while they are at it. That all but eliminates the related Benelli Click, but it can also cause lightweight (under an ounce) shells not to cycle the action properly. I have a +25% spring, but unless I will be firing 3.5" for an extended time, I generally just use the standard weight. I always use 1 1/8 oz loads in my HK SBE1 and it'll cycle perfectly, even with the Walmart el-cheapo ammo. If these do not fix the issue, and after trying a few different ammo choices, then have a gunsmith take a look at it. Out of battery on a shotgun is not near as dangerous as it is on a rifle, but can still cause harm to you or your firearm.