Duggan

Sure, an m4 with a collapsible stock. Oh, 20 gauge.

But see, the surecycle ones have that big ugly ring as the base, whereas the nodak ones follow the same basic design as the factory ones. Food for thought.

She has sidearmor.

The m4 is gas and it has a pistol grip. Instead of a stationary bolt that blasts into your shoulder when you fire, the m4 bolt goes back into the recoil tube, where the spring slows and stops it, then sends it back for another shot. This means it feels much nicer than any pump I've ever used. Also, having a pistol grip means you take a lot of the recoil out in your hand, and not in your shoulder. And why don't you want an auto? Afraid of jamming? If so, then you don't know benelli.

I'll sell you my bushnell holosight for 140 in near mint condition. It's an "authentic knockoff" of the eotech ... it's made with eotech parts, licenced out to bushnell. The only real differences are that it does not have the outer metal shell around the window and the buttons are slightly different. I can give you high res pics if you are at all interested. I used it for a week, then it sat in my closet. Your call

I saw it. It was kinda ruined by the fact that they made a big deal of him hitting "only" 7 hand thrown clays, when most people know he is capable of much more than that. But overall it was enjoyable. Oh, and I bet I can 5 or even 6 shots through the hole in a washer before it hits the ground.

I bought their green laser and it broke within 2 days. The lens is somehow loose inside and it rattles around, and the beam is no longer a beam, more like a green flastlight. Don't buy knockoff ****. Buy the real thing.

Aluminum.

I have one. They work fine. The color is noticably darker than the factory finish. The threads work the same as factory though. The last picture has no flash, just a surefire pointed at the table, so you can see how light brings out the darkness. It now sits in my closet.

I have 200 rounds of so left of it. It works ... doesn't seem to pattern that great, but it has never jammed and doesn't seem to be dirtier than other buckshot. Plus it's clear, so you can see the balls that are about to destroy the target downrange ... I like the visual.

I've put upwards of 1000 rounds of various birdshot through my m4 now without a single failure.

cabelas, natchez ...

http://www.ammoman.com http://www.aimsurplus.com/ http://www.georgia-arms.com/canned_heat.htm Cheaper than dirt sucks, and Sportsmansguide is going majorly downhill. More to come/

Go .223

The +2 factory tubes. I sold 2 of them on ebay for 510 and 360.

The factory extension uses the same spring, and there is no factory +4 extension for the m4. A guy on here a little bit back showed how a nova +2 extension can be threaded onto the end of a m4 +2 extension for an effective +4, but there is no single tube factory solution.

I don't plan on cutting any rebar any time soon ... and they don't sell the vnotch on brownells, and that royal arms has a bootleg order form.

Ok, I will. Aluminum or steel?

http://www.supload.com/vid/GGGoperation/1354163564/avi/ A small video I made of the GG&G products in "operation".

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=10088&title=GUNNERS+CHOICE+RECOIL+REDUCER+CHOKE+TUBE I'm debation getting one myself ... 130 bucks for a muzzle brake. Mr. M1014, are these worth getting? And aluminum or steel version? [ 07-13-2006, 02:09 PM: Message edited by: Duggan ]

Hmm Here should be working links http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1XSI5rGBKCmI9t5QwG42G9q82tR9zA http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=12AlXuT1BApknoK22rDNEj4t81Ldzz Installation of the bolt handle was the same as the stock one, easy. Installation of the release pad took a bit of work, but mainly because I still don't have a drift punch set. So I had to bootleg up the install using a hammer and a small screwdriver as a drift punch. You basically need to completely disregard the directions, and go with common sense. Take a look at how the release pad functions, look at the new parts you are given, and it's pretty obvious what you need to do. It took me about 30 minutes to do ... I could do it again in 10. For those considering purchase, my method was this. 1) - remove bolt, trigger guard, etc, so you have the open receiver to work with. 2) - Punch out the stock pin that hinges the stock release button, bottom to top, JUST ENOUGH so that you can get the stock release out. DO NOT punch it out all the way. 3) - Put the new pad in, ensuring spring placement lines up with the oil marks of the old one. Push into place and hold there. 4) - Punch the old stock pin back down a tiny bit, while holding the new release in place. This should be enough to hold the new release in place without you holding it, making your world 100x easier. You now have 2 hands, and can work on getting the new pin in place without worrying about the springloaded setup flying off. 5) - Punch in the new pin from the bottom, making sure it lines up. Punch it in until it is flush, again making sure it lines up in the punch hole on the OTHER side of the release. You don't want to have one hole line up and the other be loose to wobble around, you want to go through both holes, as the stock pin does. It's easy to miss this. You'll feel and hear a noticable difference in the release when you accomplish this. 6) - When you made the new pin flush, it pushed out the little bit of the stock pin you left in to hold the new release in place. It's job is now done, you can grab it with pliers and pull it out the top fully. This may not make much senes to people that don't have the parts in their hands, but it's all I have time for right now. Oh, also, it's easy to miss that the actual pad is connected to the release with a hex screw. I thought it just twisted on at first, so I almost broke the entire setup trying to force it off twisting. An allen key worked a lot better. I haven't loctited and clamped the hex screw down yet, as I want to shoot some before I make this a permanent change, but right now it appears to be top notch. SGTMAJ, the charging handle fits as snugly and well as the stock one, it just rotates. I thought this would be a bad thing, when I read about it, but it actually works quite well. There is quite a bit of friction on the rotation, so it doesn't flop around in your hand, it just rotates just enough that it moves with your hand and the gnarled handle doesn't rip skin off. Action shots and stuff coming up. Hopefully these pictures work. [ 07-13-2006, 03:23 PM: Message edited by: Duggan ]

Finally broke down and installed these 2 things. They appear to work very well just in handling them and dry firing. Definitely feels like a massive improvement over the stock items. I'll let you know how they hold up when faced with a couple hundred rounds of OO.

The clamping system finalized yet?

I use a full choke all the time. I'll probably use an x-full when I get one. I basically try to make my m4 as much like a rifle as I can, ie, the closest pattern, the longest range. I have an eotech on my rifle and shotgun, and I have many, many more rounds through my rifle than my shotgun. As such, I try to replicate my rifle technique, and thus far it's served me perfectly. But I never shoot slugs. And most people don't shoot how I shoot. I try to use my shotgun for "surgical" shots, if you will, rather than the broadside trauma barrage most people use them for. Just my style. But most people on here will likely tell you to use IC, M or IM. [ 07-13-2006, 03:26 AM: Message edited by: Duggan ]