Lupo

5.1 ounces or 144 grams for the barrel-mount unit (M401), not including the receiver rail system (if that's what you meant by "whole"). The website says 4 oz; my wife's kitchen scale says differently. [ 10-07-2006, 03:27 PM: Message edited by: Lupo ]

M96 riding above a new $910 magazine tube (snort). [ 09-25-2006, 11:19 AM: Message edited by: Lupo ]

In defense of Duggan, even somebody who owns either fixed variant (pistol or straight) may not realize that they screw on differently, even if they've done the swap with the collapsing stock; procedure is the same. However, you nits who keep a well-worn copy of your M4 documentation on the shelf next to the toilet have no excuse! Quick! Name part 063J!

For cleaning the threads....

You'll like it; gives the M4 quite a different feel.

Finally received my Larue mount (LT110) for the EOtech. Haven't tried it at the range yet but it definitely gets a big thumbs-up on improving the comfort level while using the EOtech. My wife and son both strongly agreed, so it isn't just my old stiff neck talking.

Here's my setup: Sidearmor with Surefire M961XM07; 125 lumens for 60 minutes or 225 lumens for 20 minutes.

I'm guessing that the clamshell construction of the M4 fore-end, necessitated by the pistons, is a challenge to adapting a traditional shotgun-style integrated weaponlight unit to the M4.

Okay guys, dumb question. Is there any legal distinction between selling a U.S-made +2 shot extension tube, and selling a U.S.-made full-length tube? Don't they both accomplish the same thing? Doesn't the latter example drop the imported "special parts" count by one? Is some law other than 992® relevent here? I'm not trying to "stir the pot." Imagine you could buy a U.S.-made full-length tube that was distinguishable in some way from the import. Splicing up the legality of a threaded tube by how many pieces it's made of and where they are made is nothing short of insane. BATF, I hope you are listening; care to contribute some answers? [ 07-24-2006, 09:55 PM: Message edited by: Lupo ]

Here ya go: This is the steel nodakspud on the short factory magtube, with the factory limiter below. Both the limiter and the spud tube are a darker color than the phosphate finish on the magazine tube. The spud tube appears to have a ground finish, so it is shinier than the anodized aluminum limiter.

Taxation and TYRANNY! Food additives and the Trilateral Commission!! Uhhh, whoops... sorry... 9mm. The P7 was chambered for a number of rounds, but the combination of 9mm, low cap (no stagger) magazine, squeeze-cocker, and the heel mag release mechanism (the latter distinguishing the PSP from the M8 with the Browning-style release) makes this the primo slim carry gun. Of course the best defense pistol of all time is the Colt Gov't m1911 in .45acp. But you all knew that already...

Hey Sarge, are you asking if somebody will go into production with a proven, battle-tested design for the M4 and sell a "parts kit" to the public, or simply whether there's somebody on this forum who is going/willing to fabricate what it takes to fix up their M4 with a plausible bayonet configuration and then take some pictures for the group? These are two entirely different propositions, as our friends at Mesa realize....

Must.... distract... from political squabbles... (gasp)... with... uhhh (oh yeah!)... pics of TOYS! I give you the finest concealed-carry handgun in the known universe, the HK P7. And of course we're not talking about the M8 (which kicks major-league butt in its own right) but the true original, the one and only... PSP. And yes, it's Trijicon-ed. And no, it's not one of those purple retreads. [ 07-19-2006, 07:35 PM: Message edited by: Lupo ]

Hey PDW, thanks for the endorsement. I spent several hours this afternoon degreasing the interior of the receiver of my M4 and the disassembled bolt, then coating them with the alcohol-based black stuff ("smooth-kote"). I get the sense that you need to gradually build this moly-residue up over time; the instructions urge you to rub the dry powder into the surface as well. Not used to treating my shotgun like a piece of beef I'm gonna BBQ! I used some of the "hi-slip" grease in the de-greased trigger assembly and the interior of the bolt. My fingers were almost as black as they get when you change your brake pads... (I hate rubber gloves) Didn't put it into the bore and I didn't wipe down the outside of the M4 with the "Tuf-cloth". My main concern is making sure that I have a way of knowing that the bore is clean; after 40 years of squinting down a bore treated with conventional methods, I'm not too sure I can judge the state of a barrel treated with these new-fangled compounds. If it works, this old dog will learn a new trick. If it works for the military, I'm happy to follow.

Okay, somebody on this forum recommended the Sentry Solutions products for treating the internal and working surfaces of the M4. I just received the "Armorer's Kit" that basically equips you to coat the gun with various forms of molybdenum disulfide, a slippery grey/black material that sticks to metal and repels grime. Before I start wiping this stuff in my nice shiny bore, etc. I was just looking for some reassurance that this is worth doing (and is reversible/removable). It is claimed that this is widely used in the military and essentially eliminates the need to use solvents during cleaning. However, it does change the color of the surfaces it is applied to. If you've used this stuff I'd very much like to hear what you think about it... Thanks!

You can get them here at Royal Arms International (click on "breaching barrels" on the left under "Tactical") but they sell these only to law enforcement. They'll sell civilians their "recoil reducer" which is similar, but has smaller holes and no cool spikey things on the front (also available at Brownell's). It mounts on an extended choke tube, or Royal offers to mount 'em on your supplied barrel. Can't comment on the legality, but my guess would be that Royal doesn't want the liability of equipping users untrained/unqualified for this type of activity.

Here you go guys, because bigger IS better: Only weighs a little more than the factory handle... but wind resistance is a factor.

Speaking only w/respect to the M1014/M4, if the Marine Corps manual for this weapon is any indication, the military doesn't consider it a risky operation: That being said, the only feed problem I have ever experienced with the M4 was with a floated round (only once). As has been indicated in posts by others, it would appear that you need to take care to push the shell to the rear of the carrier as far as possible.

Here's another oversized charging handle; this one is advertised as being the same weight as the factory unit. It's billed as an M1 handle, but unless the photo is deceptive it appears to be compatible with the M4 (no hidden features on the shank, as with the titanium handle at Brownell's). Looks like it will rotate.

This was covered recently here. While it's true that the manual shows how to remove the telescoping pistol grip, it would really help if they generalized the instructions to all stocks. I've seen at least 3-5 posts where folks have "gone for the nut", so to speak.

I've ordered the Larue and will report on it when it arrives. You've already seen Duggan's endorsement here .

There are only two parts, see left below: Just remove the trigger group and unscrew the presently installed stock, which engages the threads at the base of the recoil tube. Make sure your gun has the proper notches and grooves in the recoil tube (see above). If it doesn't, you won't be able to use the telescoping stock without machining operations that will probably cost more than the stock. To install, just thread the pistol grip into place, reinstall the trigger group, and insert the telescoping buttstock onto the recoil tube. If you have a manual for the M4, it should cover this step and the extension/collapse of the stock once installed (in terms of which way to rotate, etc.). The manual is strangely silent on the swapping of different stocks, which has caused all sorts of frustration as people fixate on removing the nut hidden under the recoil pad. Don't go there!

I paid about $150 for mine and was glad to get it at that price. Got the rifle-style stock (no pistol grip) for about $95. My gun came with the fixed pistol stock. It ain't modular unless you have all the modules!

Here's my son's audition for the sequel. Same dainty grip with the weak hand!

Rob, my pleasure, and I second the thanks to Brownell's for coming forward on this. Hey Lynx, thanks for the compliment but I have absolutely no idea what you mean about recon imaging. I do have a background in computer graphics and image processing, but not with the military. Make sure your support guys give you the information you need to stay safe!