LouDiamond

Latest fad, like the old folding shotgun stocks and Pistol grips, for the average Joe it's because of the CDI factor. CDI= Chicks Dig It

I have a Mesa barrel clamp. The build quality is very good. I am assuming you are wanting to install a light? The pic rail that comes with the clamp can be used to mount a light but I have heard that it tends to extend too far out to the side for some when you add the light bracket and light to the PIC rail. I have used the clamp on a 870 with a light by installing the bracket only on the bottom of the mag tube and inserting a Surefire Chroma in the 2nd slot so that the push button can be activated with the side of the index finger while gripping the forend. I'd imagine you could do this with most barrel clamps given that the flashlight tube diameter permits it.

Everything is new with the exception of the magazine extension which I had from another build. The 870P receiver only has about 100 rounds through it but the stock set and barrel are all new. There are some reflections in the photo of the entire gun off of the park job on the barrel that came from the factory. These may look like dings but they are not, just reflection.

Here they are...

Got my 870 barrel back from Joey yesterday. Initial inspection of the barrel is very good. The work is very clean and looks stock. KA did a good job of matching up the finish on the 1212BR with the factory barrel finish. I'll probably put a hundred rounds through it tomorrow or in the next few days and be able to comment on it's performance. When I get a moment, I will post images of it.

I happen to be in town on business for a few weeks and am right down the road from KA. I met Joey from KA the other day and dropped off an 870 barrel to have them put the 1212 breacher on it. I should have it back in a few days and can give you some feedback. Based on their past work and customer feedback, they are top notch.

Contact Joey at King Armory (kingarmory.com) I believe they may be able to shorten your barrel for you.

Only thing I have encountered with target loads is every now and then a expended hull will get stove piped in the chamber and I have to manually clear the hull.

Dropped my 870 barrel off with Joey from King Armory today and chewed the fat for awhile. Don't know if it was your barrel or not but he said he had a Benelli barrel that they were working on. I should have my 870 barrel back in about +/- 2 days with the 1212 BR and Hi Viz site installed on it. I'll be shooting it quite a bit as soon as I have it back and provide some feedback.

AHH, gottcha. All is not lost though. Give Hans at Vang Comp a call. he also makes a version for the 870 18" barrel that acts as a mag extension and a breaching standoff. See a picture of it HERE ,second from the top. If you have an 18-18.5 inch barrel on your weapon, Hans may be able to hook you up with a version that will fit your weapon. It's worth a call at least. Ya never know.

I will be swinging by and dropping a 18" Rem 870 barrel off with King Armory here in the next few days to have that standoff device permanently installed. If you want a stand off device for the M4, I have one from Vang Comp on my M4 that is a simple screw on replacement for the magazine end cap. It is very well built and works for its intended purpose very well. Photos can be seen by clicking HERE. It can be purchased from Vang Comp HERE

The link isn't working for me. Is there any follow up on this that provides some validity or lack there of?

I hear a lot of people say that but I just don't find that to be true in my case. I suppose it may be true for a large percentage of the gun owners out there but having carried a pistol gripped weapon(M-16 series-M4) most of my adult life (and used it in its intended environment), I find I can drive a pistol gripped shotgun as fast as those who use normal stocks. I suppose like most things, this goes back to an individuals training and what they are familiar with. With that said, I absolutely think that anyone can become as proficient with a PG shotgun as most people are with non PG shotguns if they train with one.

If too much hardener is added to the mixture, you can get a glossy finish. Otherwise the standard colors aren't glossy. Still, Duracoat does offer a "tactical" line of matte finishes if the standard colors aren't to your liking. If the Duracoat finish had a thick and bumpy texture it was applied wrong...unless that was what the painter was going for.

Pictures of my factory camo M4 to Duracoat OD green/black can be seen HERE.

Had the same issue with the one I bought and used it to get the price knocked down a bit. As soon as I got it home I gave it a Duracoat paint job so it looked less like a toy and more like a shotgun.

Try this LINK

Thats pretty much how I felt about the factory camo job. However,it might help you see it better if you wipe whatever is on your screen off.

Stick to a 2 point sling. 3 point slings are a waste of time and single point slings are only good if you're going to be using the shotgun as a breaching tool. One of the most reliable and widely used slings for both M4s and other weapons is the Vickers Combat Applications Sling. IMO, it's the best sling out there.

The Scout light is an excellent piece of kit. The thing people forget about mounting a light on a shotgun is the forces that the light is subjected to by the weapon. SureFire makes a screw on lens assembly that can withstand the concussive shock of weapons like shotguns and large caliber weapons that fits on most of the handhelds. The G2 is a great light but I cannot say how long it may survive on a shotgun before it has problems.

One of the associated hazards of ballistic breaching is the possibility of ricochets from the round and or secondary fragmentation from the door itself. Protective equipment is a must and it goes without saying that in the situations I operate in everyone will be wearing full assault kit (Level 3-4 body armor, eye pro,etc). 00 can bounce back and or over penetrate depending on the surface it hits, which is why we have people making and marketing "breaching" rounds. As for the barrel/muzzle, it doesn't get damaged during the breach. There are right ways to do things and wrong ways. Training and experience go along way in keeping people safe be it the breacher, guys in the stack or people inside/behind the door being breached. Like anything else, it is quite possible someone could go out on their own and attempt to breach an object that is inappropriate or do it incorrectly and cause harm to themselves. IMO, people who are tempted to do those sort of things will attempt them whether or not they have a breaching device on their weapon. Here is an example of what not to do. This also shows the lack of proper training most conventional units have when it comes to ballistic breaching. What not to do To illustrate a proper ballistic breaching once inside a structure fast forward to time mark 1:55. Notice that the muzzle isn't affected in any way. This is not my video footage but some of the locations shown are from where I regularly do it. My only issue with the breach in the second video is that the breacher jacked another round into the chamber after a successful breach. This relates more to SOPs and training issues than the breach itself.

While most breaching devices are barrel mounted, the purpose for it is to provide adequate standoff between the door jamb and the end of the barrel. The addition of "teeth" to the device aids the breacher in shot placement by allowing them to firmly place the device against the jamb without worrying about the barrel moving/sliding. Having taught ballistic breaching using the "old school" method where the breacher uses the old Mk1 eyeball to judge distance from the door jamb for years, we have found that 1st time successful breaches are dependent on the skill of the individual. Given the dynamic nature of moving through a house and ballistically breaching multiple doors, even a skilled breacher can have failed breaches using the Mk 1 eyeball method. After adding either a barrel or magazine mounted stand off device to the weapon we noticed that both students and experienced breachers had a higher 1st shot breach success at the breach point and while moving through the house than when they did not have the device. We go through roughly 100 doors during a typical train up and have used most if not all of the breaching rounds out there. While some of them prove better than others either in effectiveness and or safety, we still have the best success rate with the the standard Mil issue 00, 9 pellet Winchester shells. While there may be better options out there, the simple fact is that there is plenty of 00 in the ammo supply system and no matter where you get deployed to in the world it is easier to find 00 that a niche specialty shell. While the Vang device may look "cool" we use it for it's designed purpose. The fact that it can be added or removed in a matter of minutes and requires no permanent modification to the weapon or the barrel, provides added flexibility in tailoring the mission profile of the weapon. For some it may be a "cool" item but for what I do, it is a functional piece of kit.

No. It replaces the nut/cap that is on the end of the M4 magazine tube.

For those interested in a breaching device for the M4, Vang Comp offers one that is a simple add on. It replaces the standard magazine cap and also has a sling point incorporated in it for those who have an after market full length tube installed. The unit comes from Vang Comp with a new magazine spring and metal follower for $125.00. Like all things from Vang, the build quality is top notch. If you can remove the cap off of a coke bottle you can do this modification to your M4 in a matter of minutes. I tested the unit out against a few door jambs and the teeth are very effective at digging in and providing positive barrel placement. Simply placing the unit against the door jamb and pushing lightly is enough to make the device dig in. No force is required so there is no need to worry about compromising the breach with the sound of a barrel hitting the door jamb prior to the shot. pic #1 pic #2 pic #3 pic #4 pic #5