Unobtanium

Not gonna click that link, bro! Not with that description.

Bro...if they melt, will USPS cover it, or will it be considered common sense and you still be on the hook to the buyer for the value of the ruined candy? Because for $275...I'd hold you to them arriving in good condition.

It's not worth it intellectually, but it's worth it emotionally.

Seriously. Hold out. You will get it. (not kidding). People wanna see pix of it in the original packaging though, if possible, and all that...not too appealing, text without pix. The color ads get all the sales!

Thanks for that!

Maybe it was polite conversations that people like myself had with them about product improvement and outlining cost/benefit along with not being adversarial?

I wanted the bigger dot. H2 has it. H2 has more visible settings as noted, but dot size was the driving factor.

Thanks! Yes, that is part of why I bought this property. I liked the house, and it's in the middle of nowhere.

Remember the Y2K computer thing? yeah, that was about 2 years shy of 2 decades ago. You're welcome.

Your comment blows my mind, coming from 2008, lol!

Thanks! I got into the Benelli M4 scene back in 2008. Then, we had no-name tubes, OEM tubes, and SOCOMGUY tubes. That was it. Those were ALL THE THINGS. You had a pick between 3-4 mag-tubes, and the OEM night-sights, and the C-stock (for $7-900). The platform has come SO FAR in terms of aftermarket support. Now we have Ti mag tubes, co-witnessed irons/RDS, streamlined light mounts that allow rapid take-down of the weapon, etc. That is what finally got me back into the M4 game, is the maturity of the support for the platform allowing me to "make it what I want". I have finally succeeded in getting exactly what I want out of the M4.

Video Review: (Shot in 4K, for those of you who like hi-res.)

I'd rather buy JUST the disconnector, personally.

All video/photo is from my property. However, my property ends where you see the change in grass color about mid-view/where the iron stake can be seen if you look carefully in the far-right of the frame by the smaller tree..

I want to do a shout-out to StrangerDanger here on the forum. I shipped him my receiver to remove the OEM mag tube. He did it in 1 day and returned it post haste! There was an invoice included with all of the work he did (remove 1913 rail, install WOLFF shell-stop spring, remove OEM tube, remove loctite residue). The receiver was CLEAN. When I got it back, there was no trace of loctite, there were no idiot-marks, there were no scratches where the loctite was removed, nothing. Just a clean loctite and OEM-tubeless receiver. The cost for the work was very agreeable, and the work itself was very professional. OCD, even. I would not hesitate to recommend StrangerDanger for any work that he agrees to be competent to perform. Also, the owner of Tango Arms. The Tango Arms forend stocks are awesome! They prevent the hand from sliding around during recoil, and are very well/tastefully stippled. The work itself is very good. I have friends with Zev, Agency, and other high-end stippled firearms, and this workmanship is right in-line with them. The price seems steep at first, but each set takes roughly 3 hours to stipple, and you have to factor in what it costs to pay someone who can do an excellent job of that, to sit there for 3 hours of their time and monotonously do it. Once that is taken into account, and the fact that OEM HG's are used, the price makes sense. There isn't much profit margin in this once the TA pays their stippler. It's a labor of love type thing the way I see it, except to the stippler, who, in my opinion, makes a profit in-line with the boring and tedious work he sits there doing. Scalarworks...the mount is awesome! 'nuff said: The best way to attach it, of course doing the middle screws first, is to get it where it slides on without rattling. Then you tighten one screw ever so slightly until it CANNOT be forced on. Then back it off the tiniest amount and verify that it can be FORCED into place. Then you move to the 2nd screw, and do the same. In this way, you insure that BOTH screws are tight in their slots. The rest? Follow the torque specs and go at it. IWC...well, IWC has some work to do, still. My mount tightens down and removes the gap 100%. I would prefer it left a little gap on either side. Say 0.1" or so. This would allow for more variance. As it was, I tightened it to about 10 in-lb, and there was a slight gap left. After a day of shooting, it moved a touch. So, it got a good tightening to about 25 in-lb, and I think it "went solid" around 20 in-lb. Will it hold? yes, I am 100% sure it will. But it sure is on the cusp of my setup not working, were it 0.05" or so smaller or something. It's not a precision part, that barrel hanger. IWC needs to open up the clearances, IMO. Other than that...super product! Limbsaver...I love that buttpad. Over the last 2 days I've fired over 100 rounds of buck and slug. My shoulder is fine. Wolff springs...they work. 'Nuff said. CarrierComp Ti mag-tube...yeah, it's what you'd expect. No surprises. Flawless workmanship bordering on OCD. The video I made shows a roughly 3" 25 yard group. I was sitting to fire it. With the weapon benched, it shoots better than that, but that is representative of what you'd expect "in the field". Over-all, I am very happy, and this project came together perfectly. A video is upcoming, when it finishes uploading. I recorded it in 4K, so it may be a while (at least, I think it's recorded in 4K. New potato).

Range report and better pics coming soon.

Probably meant to mirror something like this: I'd be very interested to know what metal/who made it/etc.

My experience and solution back when I used m4s that took chokes mirrors SDs. I also used trulock choke tube grease.

Well, over a course of fire, I have had them loosen if you don't use a GOOD wrench. Take into account something like a 250-500 round shotgun training course, and a lot of instructors say they don't like chokes for a good reason. The other aspect of it is that I spend hundreds of dollars on various tubes if I have a gun that takes chokes, searching for "that perfect combo". Now all I can dick with is ammo

The M1014 is a current mil-issue barrel. Fixed choke, MOD constriction, hammer forged chrome lined. It features the collar at the rear and the larger "wings" on the barrel extension just like your 2014 model does. I am not a fan of screw-in chokes on a fighting shotgun, hence I went with something that had a choke that won't freeze in the barrel, or fly downrange.

You really need to pattern it. I have had all sorts of combos between ammo and choke. Even different brands of 00 or 000 will prefer different constrictions. Not to mention choked. You can literally buy 2 chokes of the same constriction and get what shoot a like 2 different shotguns. The one exception here is flite control. It does better the more open the choke in a benelli. CYL is hands down the best if you're going to use FC buck. Combo that typically has worked well for me is Remington 2.75" 000 and mod. It consistently delivers from the m4. I have yet to find an M4 that doesn't like that combo.

As of right now, I have all of the items I want, and they function 100% the way I want for them to. I was simply clarifying for future reference, as well as for others who may have ideas.

Class 3 lasers are capable of plenty within the scope of even the sabot slugs range. Also as mentioned, is this class IV laser robust? The only reason I can see for wanting more than civilian laser power is: 1: military clone gun 2. If you use NODS, you can use splash from hugher ppwer IR laser to actually illuminate a room, etc. This is a liability too...many mil guys are happy with c3. 3. IR laser used to blind people.

Just to clarify: for the right amount of money, you will build or cause to be built a singular unique item, speced by the customer?

Probably a t10 or t15. I'd grab a set of torx and be done with it.