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jantonio54

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Everything posted by jantonio54

  1. Try Walmart, for gosh sake. I just bought a wireless keyboard and mouse at Radioshack for 30 bucks. Buy one off Ebay. I'd spend the 10 or 15 bucks before I'd take all the crap you're taking for typing a hundred posts without a capital letter.
  2. Yes, I had a SOPMOD on an AR, which I sold. I now own a Magpul UBR, an EMOD, and have a Magpul ACS on order, if they ever hit the market. All these stocks actually clamp on the receiver tube, and thereby provide a wiggle-free feel to them. The SOPMOD is an incredible, but overpriced, stock. The M4 stock must operate by means of a sliding bar of some sort which engages the slots in the receiver tube. As such, mine is not 100% wiggle-free, but is very close to it. My guess is that over time, any wiggle could become more pronounced due to the design and the force of the recoil. That said, the wiggle in mine is really, really minute, insignificant to me. The other benefits of the stock FAR overcome the tiny bit of wiggle. I think you will be very happy with it. It is slick. And take a look at the Galati XT 35" case. Perfect fit.
  3. My STRONG guess is that your M4 will chew through those 750 rounds with nothing approaching a failure of any sort. I shot about 80 rounds of AA skeet loads without a failure, and the LE132 should cycle far more positively than that.
  4. At the price you paid for the LE132, use it for practice, or Gunbroker it for a profit.
  5. Just to clarify, LE127 is not low or reduced recoil. It is a full-power load at 1345 fps, if I remember correctly. LE132 is reduced recoil.
  6. Fairly rock solid. Cheek weld is as good as the fixed PG stock, to me. I notice no difference in recoil.It "feels" pretty terrific. The intermediate position is of some value. I'm 6'3" and it is not uncomfortable at all in that position, so I would think shorter shooters might really like that option. The gun feels very maneuverable and fast-pointing in that position. I paid the current exorbitant price for one and don't regret it at all. My guess is they become harder to find as the new-old stock dries up (by stock, I mean the supply, NOS). You'll always have a few sellers who need a new transmission in the F-150, but I haven't heard of anyone selling one because they didn't like it. So as supply decreases, demand increases due to thousands of new owners, some percentage of which want the collapsible stock. You know the end of that equation. I ordered a 35" Galati XT shotgun case and the M4 with collapsed stock fits in there like it was made for it. It makes a very neat, very compact package. My advice is try to find one for 800 and bite the bullet.
  7. Many think Hornady TAP is the most effective at 1600 FPS. The Federal LE12700 is terrific. And I like the US Military Grade buckshot, available now at Midway, Cabelas, Natchez, and others online.
  8. jantonio54

    Hello

    HI!!! Hope you have a wonderful day, as well!!!
  9. Are the target's grids 1" squares, making the target area 14"X14"?
  10. Nah, I'm a bird hunter who would probably blow his own leg off if there was a zombie in the house. But I do have three Benellis, if you count a Beretta 1201FP, and was really just curious about what choke others prefer in their defense shotguns. I also don't understand the rationale behind the "tighter is better" theory when it comes to buckshot. Heck, just use a slug.
  11. You know, I'm fully aware you have to aim a shotgun, but if you're so positive you're going to hit exactly what you're aiming at, why choose an 8-round shotgun over a 31-round AR-15 or, better yet, a 26-round AR-10? To me the beauty of the shotgun lies in the breadth of pattern. That's why I don't bird hunt with my AR's.
  12. Thanks for the coherent answer. If you only envision using a shotgun at very short ranges, e.g., in the home or in the yard, is choke constriction even that important? I mean, at very close ranges, they're all going to do the same thing, right? So at intermediate home defense ranges, it would seem to me one would want the widest dispersion possible, to compensate for aiming error brought on by simultaneous crapping of the pants. Why would you sacrifice a wide pattern by trying to turn a shotgun into something it is not; a long-range weapon? I mean, if you tag a threat with just one .30 ball, instead of missing entirely, you might do better with a follow-up shot, rather than being shot yourself. And I'm not just arguing to hear myself type. I'm really curious.
  13. And why is there so much emphasis on super-tight buckshot patterns? If you want a really tight pattern, use a rifle, right? My M4, which I bought used, came only with a modified choke. I'm thinking about buying a cylinder tube and just wondered what others preferred and why. And where can you order Benelli standard choke tubes? Thanks.
  14. I like d's approach as well, but take a look at the Streamlight part # 69903 Mag Tube Rail. It's a two nub, one groove rail, made of some sort of very tough-feeling nylon or plastic. Extremely lightweight, attaches to the mag tube with no less than three bolts and nuts. Also extremely low profile. I've got about 100 rounds through an M1 with one of these and a fairly heavy Surefire, with no sighs of wear or stress.
  15. And just to clarify regarding your question above, the nut on the top of the tube is threaded into the tube itself. The threads on the nut are about one-half inch long. The tube does not separate from the receiver; the nut separates from the tube. The process is easier if you carefully clamp the receiver in a vice. It does not need to be clamped tightly at all and must be well-protected from the vice jaws. I had to heat mine until it was almost glowing red. A box-end wrench is best, but if you've already buggered the nut up to the point the wrench won't hold, you'll have to use a pair of large vice grips.
  16. Outershell, please go buy a cheap torch at a hardware store. Whatever Benelli uses is NOT blue Loctite. Heat the nut and the tube about one inch down from the nut with the blue part of the flame for a minute or two. As you have discovered, in many cases a heat gun will not work. I owned two auto repair shops for fifteen years and have never known a mechanic who even owned a heatgun. If cosmetics are not an issue, as in this case, use a torch. And lefty loosey, righty tighty.
  17. Yes, they are unobtanium, Unobtanium.
  18. Yeah, I just got the notice, too. Looks like we hope for Carriercomp to come up with one. Cleefurd says in a thread below that they have received the material to begin production.
  19. Thanks very much for letting me know. I've had one on back order for a week.
  20. Progressive Machine and Tool seems to be gone. They have a web site, but the phone is disconnected and emails get kicked back undeliverable. I can't find Design Concepts anywhere. Anybody know how long on Carriercomp's charger?
  21. Is there anywhere other than Brownell's who sell the Design Concepts charging handle for the M4? Brownell's is out of stock and I'm not having any luck with Google. Thanks.
  22. I took the M4 to the range today. It's been a couple weeks since I shot the M1, so maybe I'm not remembering correctly, but if there is any difference in recoil when using full loads, it is not significant in my opinion. I hunt with a Browning A5, which kicks twice, and a Rem 1100, which is mild-mannered, and own the two Benellis and a Beretta 1201FP, basically the same gun as an M1. IMHO, the M4 kicks with the best of them, or at least nearly so. But the huge difference between the M1 and M4 is cycling reliability. My M1 has a mag extension and a 10 oz Surefire light. It would not cycle light loads reliably with or without the light. It also would not cycle heavy loads reliably with the light. After cleaning and replacement of the recoil spring with a Wolff heavy spring, It will now cycle heavy loads reliably with the light (I think). Today I oiled up the M4 and started with AA 2 3/4 dram skeet loads. The first round was a FTE. After that, it ripped off 70 rounds of the light skeet loads without a single hiccup. I then switched to the heavy stuff: Hornady TAP, Winchester military grade, Rem Express, Win XX, all 3 3/4 drams I believe. I shot about 50 rounds of this stuff, again without a hiccup. I could literally FEEL that there was zero chance any of the heavy stuff was going to short cycle. The cycle process just felt very,very positive. So, the difference between the two is the certainty (at least in my mind) that the M4 is going to work. I think you can get the same certainty with an M1 until you start hanging stuff on them. I'm keeping them both, but if one has to go, bye-bye M1. I'm thinking of selling the 1201FP. I hope that helps you with your decision.
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