jantonio54

Duggan, I think I ran across one of your posts on Arfcom with a pic of an M4 with collapsible stock. I'm curious if you own both stocks or like the full PG stock better or what. OP, I don't mean to hijack, sorry if it's taken that way.

I have an M1 and an M4. I have not shot the M4 yet, but will do so this week, so I don't have much to add. However, the difference in weight is VERY noticeable, with the M1 feeling light as a feather after handling the M4. Due to this lightness, the M1 seems to swing, point and acquire faster, but also has a pretty hefty kick to it. I'm hoping the M4 is considerably more tame.

So, how much? 450?

A lighter will not come close to getting the job done. You need a torch. You can get a cheap single-bottle torch from a hardware store. Then heat the living stew out of it while trying to turn the nut with a box-end wrench. Once it begins to turn, no further problems. Just don't tattoo your forehead with a hot spring. Replace the spring with a Wolff HEAVY spring, shoot the full-load shells the M1 was designed for, and don't have another worry. If you've buggered the nut up too much for a box end, use vice grips. But you have to really put the heat to it.

Sounds like you're looking for an original hard copy, but I just wanted to make sure you know you can download and print it from the Benelli site.

You're a terrific source of information and help. I really appreciate it.

It appears to have the three position tube. Sound right? I took a couple pictures if there's any doubt.

Thanks, Duggan, very helpful. I have a question in to Cleefurd regarding lead times, and intend to buy a tube from him as soon as he responds. The barrel is not marked "low recoil" and I see only two ports. Would four ports be clearly distinguishable? Also, this M4 has some sort of tritium sights. Is that stock? Thanks for your help.

I finally just received my new, used M4 which I bought from Cabelas Kansas City. I posted a few days ago that they couldn't tell me what model it was, even though they claimed to have the box, and I finally got disgusted and bought it. I am relieved to find it did come in the original, correct serial-numbered box, and it is a 11707 with two gas ports. It appears unfired, although the choke tube appears to have had a few rounds through it. I wonder if they test fire M4's at the factory. I have two questions, if someone would be so kind: 1. The box says "M4 LR PG STD LE COLL". Does that mean it has the milled tube which is ready for a collapsible stock, should I decide to cough up the bucks? And what do LR And STD stand for? And is LE Law Enforcement or Limited Edition? 2. In the box were the manual, IPB, a cheap tactical light, and the choke tool. The only choke is installed and is a modified. Do they come new with other chokes, and is the modified a good choice for OO? Seems like IC or even more open would be better. Thanks for any answers, and I am VERY happy with the feel of the M4.

That's good of you to offer help. Question: I'm expecting an M4 by Tuesday. Does the M4 operate identically to an M1?

The Streamlight is mounted on a Streamlight mount, part # 69901, inexpensive and available from Optics Planet. It's specifically for the TLR series. Check the 69903 for the TL series. These are both hard to find, but Optics Planet has them.

One more comment, Madevildog. The M3 is a traditional filament bulb and the TLR-2 is an LED. After about 35 rounds, the bulb in my M3 went tango uniform. LED's are advertised as being impervious to shock. Both these lights use the CR123A lithium battery, which has a ten year shelf life. And thanks again for the lesson on the pictures. I'm not really qualified to answer many questions on loads, dependent on how much you already know, but you're welcome to email me if there's any way I can help.

Here's the Streamlight TLR-2: The Streamlight can be rotated around the mag tube so that it hugs the barrel similar to theSurefire mount and does not interfere with the switch when mounted in that manner. I can't overemphasize how bright this little light is in a large room. The laser beam is focused and way bright in the middle of the beam, whether in daylight or total darkness. in a large room, such as a living room, the beam floods the entire opposite wall with light. Inside, this thing compares favorably with a Surefire M4, a $400 light. Outside at distance, it would not compare so favorably. I hope this helps. BTW, how do you make your pics bigger? nevermind, I figured it out.

It seems I'm limited to two pictures per reply, so I'll break this up into a couple replies. The first pics are the Surefire M3 mounted on an M1: Next post will be the Streamlight.

I've got it, I think. I just signed up and transferred a few pics there, so I should be able to post some pics of this light , mount and M1 tomorrow. Thanks VERY much for the clear instructions. We old guys require some help with this $#!+ !!!

Thanks, I think I can handle that. I assume you load your pics from your camera to your docs/pics folder and then to photobucket. What a convoluted process. I'm about 40% computer savvy.

I don't have it attached, yet, but Streamlight sells some nifty mounts, specifically the 69901,which I have and which is made specifically for the TLR series. Honestly, I own a Surefire M4 (good name, huh?) and an M3, both with Z58 tailcaps. These are about $600 combined. This TLR-2 (C4) will just knock your socks off. I can't imagine a better shotgun light. And BTW, what's the best way to post a pic on this board? You give me some quick instructions and I'll post a pic mounted on my M1. My M4 is in the mail from Cabelas.

Take a hard look at the Streamlight TLR-2, the new version with 135 lumens and built-in laser. I just received one an hour ago and I couldn't be more impressed. Light, small, and bright. The laser is incredibly bright with the flashlight on. I also own two Surefires and will sell one to buy another of these. Optics Planet has a good price. The new version is C4.

Thanks, Duggan, for the helpful reply. Did 11707's ever come with the 4 port barrel?

I already have an M1 and a 1201FP, but I'm really excited to get an M4. I got it from Cabelas used for 1299. I talked (long distance) to three different salesmen trying to figure out what model it was and didn't get any help whatsoever, so I finally just got disgusted and bought it. They sort of said they sold it new in 2007, and sort of said it looked unfired and like new, and sort of said it came with the original box (although it was not possible to look at the box for the model #), and sort of said it had a light attached. They were sure it had "M4" rollmarked under the bolt and that it had a PG stock. The only thing I'm really worried about is the possibility it could be a four-port barrel, because I shoot and stock only the full-load stuff. What do you think the odds are? Thanks.

La26, I am far from an authority on this subject, but I have read that the stock spring on an M1 leaves a lot to be desired. As a matter of fact, mine was rusty and the tube was somewhat corroded, even though the gun has been stored in a humidity-controlled safe and only fired maybe 20 times. I know nothing about the physics of inertia, or the effects of adding weight to an inertia-driven shotgun. However, there has been an awful lot written about cycling problems with Benellis and the causal effect of adding weight to these guns. It has been written that any cycling problem with a Benelli is almost always related to the recoil spring and tube. It seems that the cure, should you want to add weight to an inertia-driven gun, MIGHT be: 1. Clean the stew out of it, including scrub the recoil spring tube with a 20 gauge brush and solvent; 2. Use the Wolf +25% spring, and ; 3. Use full-charge 2 3/4" ammunition. This formula seems to have worked for me. That said, I understand your question about the heavier spring and do not have an answer. The Wolf spring also was about 4" SHORTER than the stock spring. My advice (which is worth exactly what I'm charging) is to add your accessories to the M2, fire it 30 or 40 times, and see what happens. If you have any problems, try the heavier spring. It costs about 12 bucks and was really very easy to change. Just remember to torch the daylights out of the nut and don't get hit in the forehead with a hot spring.

Hookster, I'm no expert and all I know is from the research I did on this board and other boards, but I'd say the correct answer to your question is "maybe." If you were going to shoot anything less than full-charge BS with those accessories, I'd guess "probably." If you intend to exclusively use high-brass BS, I would change the spring. Here is a tremendous essay on the issue by "remarkable". Well, for some reason, you have to have a post count of 5 or more to post a link on this board. So if you search "recoil spring" on this board, I think you'll find his post from April of 2006. If you can't find it, I can email you a link. Best of luck.

I have an M1, 18" with pistol grip and full length extension, to which I wanted to add a 10 ounce light and mount (Surefire M3). I had the expected cycling problems, having broken the "Pick-one-of-the-three" rule (extension, light, or sidesaddle). I took the gun down to its smallest part, cleaned and lubed it well, and replaced the stock recoil spring with a Wolf 25% heavier spring. I've now fired nearly 100 rounds of Remington high-brass 00 without a single hiccup. This includes many shots with the gun not mounted to the shoulder, every magazine load to 7+1+1, and several shots just holding the gun with one hand, which is painful. I hope this info helps somebody out there. Remember that you have to really heat the nut on the recoil spring tube to get it off. I used a small torch. Otherwise, piece of cake. If anyone needs instructions, I can post links.

I'm a noob to the forum and hope someone will help with some questions. Shotgun is an M1 pistol-grip, 18" tactical, about 15 years old. I'm trying to get this gun to cycle reliably with a little added weight, specifically the four-shot extension and a light and mount which weigh about 10 ounces. I only want it to cycle light magnum 2 3/4 " OO. At the range, it successfully cycled a couple tubes of Win XX, loaded 7+1+1. I guess I got a little confident and tried some lighter buckshot and skeet loads, and problems developed. There were all sorts of failures, FTE, failure to return to battery, stovepipes, etc., even when I went back to the XX's. I now have the receiver completely torn down, and it is slightly dirty, but not gummed up. I'm going to replace the recoil spring and have the following questions: 1. Should I use a heavier spring, such as the Wolf, or just a standard-weight? 2. Should I replace the bolt inertia spring and the firing pin spring? 3. I have some spare magazine tube springs I bought from Beretta for a 1201FP ( basically the same as an M1). The Beretta springs are 3 " longer than the old M1 spring and slightly smaller in diameter. Think I'm OK with one of these? Any other advice will be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks much.