StrangerDanger

I finally came up with a use for the BLAM4 with the help of Daniel. Basically, I'm going to turn it into a dedicated forward QD sling mount. I'm going to remove the MOE rail, drill out the inner hole to 1/2", mount a low profile QD mount to it. Notch the mount for the locator tabs by just drilling a small indent at 12 and 6 o'clock. Then, I'll cut the excess off of the mount. I'll cut off the crappy sling mount on the opposite side and file the edges all down. I'll then hit the areas with some cold blue. Button all the fasteners up with some blue locktite. Ill angle the mount so it covers the rear barrel hanger.

If you can try to put the cheek riser from the Pro mag onto the factory unit, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Now that's funny. You know that guys buying a dozen to resell again to the Internet challenged.

Glad to hear that it worked out for you 58sniper. Interesting about the various types of thread locker applied by the factory.

Great minds think alike!

Benelliwerkes, That first tool looks like it would work best. Along with slipping that piano wire hook under the raised edge. Milling a notch into the slot works very well. Sometimes it sucks to modify a part to work on it. In this case, the modification doesn't effect function or even looks really. You'd be hard pressed to even see it. Notching the extension took about 15 seconds and will make future service a breeze. Benelli would probably install such a cut if it wouldn't create another milling operation for them to price out. If re-installing in the modified extension, you just put the gap between the Flexible Ring over the notch. Pretty smart to use the hose clamp to compress the ring. With this extension, it is pretty easy to just push the ring into position. I could have used the hose clamp idea on a Magazine Spring Retainer I encountered a while back. Nearly broke the snap ring pliers trying to compress it enough.

You have some great tools beneliwerks. I tried several hooks to dig out the Flexible Ring, but failed. I figured I was just going to break my hooks.

My first set lasted 10,000 rounds until Benelli replaced my barrel. 3000 more rounds, and no issues. As long as you don't tear them up when installing the ARGO plugs, they should last a long time. I do keep some spares on hand just in case excrement happens.

Press the Flexible Ring into the end of the Receiver Extension. As you press it in, you will be compressing the ring so that it can pass into its race. Pressing the Flexible ring in with a punch is the easiest method I've found. Once in, pry upward on the Flexible ring until it seats in place. Be sure that all the edges of the Flexible Ring are recessed into its race. With the capacity to disassemble the Receiver Extension completely, you can buy a stripped 3 Position Receiver Extension and transfer all your existing internal components over from your existing unit. This will save you some time and money.

Once the Flexible Ring is dislodged, hook the loop with a punch or a probe and pry it out. Be careful, this part is under spring tension and tends to fly. For such a small part, it is a troublesome one to get out.

Once the notch is cut, it is easy to remove the Flexible Ring. I tapped on my probe with an 8 ounce hammer very lightly. This cause the probe to push under the end of the Flexible Ring and dislodge it from the race. Continue to drive it downward until the entire Flexible Ring has dislodged from the race.

Alright, I finally found a surefire way on how to get the Flexible Ring out of your existing extensions. After removing the Receiver Extension from the receiver, put the Receiver Extension in a vice with the Flexible Ring side up. I've tried for nearly an hour to dig the Flexible Ring out with various tools. It's impossible and you'll just break tools that cost more than the five-dollar part. Sadly, these little rings are hard to find and are usually out of stock. The best solution is to modify your Receiver Extension by cutting a small notch into the lip of the Receiver Extension. This will allow you to hammer a small punch or blunt tip probe behind the leading edge of the Flexible Ring. With this mechanical leverage, you can easily dislodge the Flexible Ring and recover it. To make the notch, I just used a small cut off wheel and a Dremel tool. Note where the Flexible Ring is, and cut in the gap between the open ends of the Flexible Ring. Once the notch is complete, simply use a probe or punch to slide the Flexible Ring over the notch. The Flexible Ring freely spins within its race. The notch will not affect function of the Receiver Extension whatsoever. Besides, you're not using that extension anymore and they pretty much have absolutely no resale value. Naturally, I took some pictures of the process. Here the notch was cut with a Dremel cut off wheel. You don't need to go too deep, just enough to allow your probe to get under the back side of the Flexible Ring. The notch is shown in red, and the open ends of the Flexible Ring are shown in green. Hope you guys aren't color blind! Do not try to cut your notch on top of the Flexible Ring. You'll damage it in the process. Cut the notch between the open ends of the Flexible Ring. With a probe or a punch, push on the edge of the Flexible Ring. The Flexible Ring will spin freely within the race. Align the leading edge of the Flexible Ring over your newly cut notch.

Hi all, I took the Benelli PDF file that has the multiple languages and cut it down so that only the english descriptions are present. I also made the PDF into .jpg format so they're easy to post. Feel free to link to the photos whenever you want. They're on a photobucket account, and I've yet to max out the bandwidth yet.

I weighed the shotgun fully loaded. Bathroom scale throw out between 9.25 and 9.5 lbs. This setup is far more comfortable than the Surefire M80. The Surefire along with its GearSector mount had a lot of edges that would jam you thumb when firing. While the epoxy is ugly, it is smooth and presents no edges. The light mounts pretty far forward, so you don't even notice that it is there unless you need it.

Had some free time this afternoon, decided to tweak the handguards some more to make it not as ugly. I filled in the fasteners with epoxy to eliminate all the edges. I then painted the area with Plastic Dip. Still doesn't look great, but it looks better. I still don't miss the weight I saved!

In on this one!

There are ways to make your own H2O M4 if you're interested. Actually, you can do it better than the H20. You can send parts of the M4 to WMD Guns to have it coated in NiB. What's better about this is you can have a top coat applied in Cerakote. So you can have the exterior whatever color you want. That way, you get the benefits of having it coated, but you don't have to be stuck with the satin silver finish. The only real problem is you have to disassemble the weapon pretty thoroughly. Barrel: I would not try to coat the barrel. There are parts that are riveted into place on the barrel that have springs behind them. Mainly on the ejector and the barrel cap detent. I would just have this Cerakoted whatever color you want. Receiver: The receiver extension will need to be removed. As well as the rear sight housing. You'd have to pull out the trigger pin and the magazine tube would also need to be removed. The shell stop would need to be removed. I've personally done all of this except the rear iron sights. The shell stop assembly could be coated in NiB. Magazine Tube: If your full length magazine tube is titanium, it cannot be coated in NiB, but it can be Cerakoted. Magazine Follower: This can be coated in NiB. Pistons: These can be coated in NiB. Receiver Extension: This can be coated in NiB. Recoil Plunger: This can be coated in NiB. Bolt Carrier Group: This can be coated in NiB. You could even ask for the visible portion of the carrier to be painted with Cerakote. Trigger Group: This would need to be fully disassembled. The Trigger Group itself could be coated in NiB. I would recommend coating several of the smaller parts within it, but not the trigger/hammer/disconnector components. I'd coat the shell elevator, hammer spring plunger, and shell release lever.

The thinner the rail covers the better. LaRue Index clips work well. The rail is an assembled one piece unit. With the barrel removed, you insert one Argo piston, then pull the rubber of the rail on the opposite side out to allow the other piston to push in. Metal tabs fit into both the front and rear handguard retainers.

Sounds like the original owner was fingering it. You could try installing the pin from your functioning stock to see if it resolves the problem. I'd recommend getting ahold of a three position receiver extension for that M1014. As usual, they're out of stock at Numrich. It would add to that weapon's value and function. The replacement isn't that hard to do.