StrangerDanger

It's possible that they would repair it. What I would do is disassemble the stock and compare it to your functioning one. I'd then replace the defective part. Numrich Arms has almost every internal part of the collapsible stock. It is most likely the plunger or the spring that is out of spec. This route would be faster than Benelli. Every time I have used their customer service, it took about a month.

Yep. Then have holes through the body that would attach to a small picatinny rail section, or a foot print for the Scout lights. Could even have the six holes for the X300 so that you could eliminate the mounting hardware. The fasteners would be countersunk flush into the back side of the mounting bracket. That way the fasteners couldn't back out they'd just back out into the barrel hanger. Trouble is, most of the big makers want to make these parts out of cheap aluminum extrusions. Not sure a design like this could be done that way. It would have to be milled.

I looked at going that route myself. The steel is pretty thin. I'm not sure if it is thick enough to thread. There isn't much room on the inside since the magazine tube fits pretty much flush through the hole. I was thinking an aluminum bracket that two halves bolted together over the hanger and over the top of the barrel and also below it.

Not the best picture of the Sidearmor rail, but it shows the fasteners below the rail edge. I know I didn't use the washers when I installed mine. They had their own Allen head fasteners. This was several years ago, so things may have changed. I'd contact SideArmor and ask them. If the fasteners fit without them protruding into the receiver and binding the barrel extension, I'd go without. Usually I hit the fasteners and the threads as best as I can with a wire brush. A tap would be best, but I don't even have that. Spraying them down with a solvent works well. I have a 5 gallon bucket filled with three gallons of odorless Mineral Spirits. I use it as a dunk tank. It'll last for years. The debris will settle to the bottom. It doesn't seem to evaporate even with just a cheap plastic lid that presses on. I would minimize how many times you mess with that top rail's fasteners. I wouldn't pull it randomly for cleaning. The SideArmor disassembly knob is for their full rail system. The top rail fits into a barrel clamp ahead of the forearm and has a knob you unscrew to detatch the receiver and the barrel. They didn't put any ratcheting detents in it like the magazine cap unfortunately. I'd crank it down hard, and I would still find it loose. They should have put a hole in it so you could crank it tighter with the bolt handle.

The factory rail has a lock washer. I wouldn't add anything else since it will limit how much thread is in the receiver. The aluminum receiver is quite thin, so you need every bit of thread you can get. Blue locktite works well on these fasteners. Another option is to mark your fasteners with a grease pencil. Then you'll have a visual reference to see if the fastener is backing out during recoil. On the SideArmor rail I had, the fasteners to the receiver never backed out, but the disassembly knob would loosen during recoil. Every 50 rounds or so, I'd have to crank it down again. I find adding a bunch of weight to the shotgun is counterproductive. I'm about 170 lbs at 6'2, and I do 1.5 mile in just under 10 minutes. I also do 125 push-up sets. It isn't about your physical strength. More weight slows down how fast you can swing the barrel from target to target. You really feel the added weight when you try to slow down the barrel swing to settle on a target. I keep my spare shells on my belt line, in a jacket pocket or in a bandolier. Devices like a California Competition belt carrier are faster than any weapon mounted carrier since you can load 4 or 6 rounds in one grab (depending on your hand size.) I just took a half pound of weight off my M4 by dumping the Surefire M80. I could instantly tell that it was faster.

Glad I could help. I've been thinking about doing one to show the full disassembly of the trigger group. It looks scarier than it really is. Plus I have better lighting conditions now for taking photos. Sometimes you just can't get the trigger group clean without a full disassembly.

Anytime you mess with fasteners, you should do the following; 1. Try to find a torque spec. 2. Use a torque wrench. I really like the Seekonk dial indicator model. It isn't super expensive, and it works with all magnabit drivers. 3. Use the proper driver that fits. Close enough usually damages the screw head. 4. Clean the fastener and the threaded holes. 5. Prep the fasteners and the receiving thread holes with Locktite Primer. This cleans the threads and makes sure there isn't any oil on the two surfaces. 6. Apply the appropriate color Locktite for the job at hand. 7. When torquing fasteners, try to start all the fasteners first before making your final torque. Kind of like how you torque the lug nuts on a wheel. 8. Allow the thread locker to dry for 24 hours before shooting. For shell carriers, rule of thumb is every shell you add adds 2 ounces. So an 8 shell carrier will add a pound of weight not including the carrier itself. Saying that, I woe use the 3gunner Velcro shell carrier system rather than either the Mesa or the Sidearmor carriers. It doesn't look as cool, but it works and adds no weight except if you have shells on the weapon. Of the Mesa and Sidearmor, the Sidearmor is a better design.

Well, if you NP3 coat it, you won't notice the worn aluminum as much since it'll be silver. I'd just leave it alone. If doing NP3, I'd be doing it to slick up the action.

That sling mount should work too. Certainly has fewer parts. Ive been pitching a barrel band clamp idea for years to all the m4 makers. None of them seem to want to do it. They keep pushing barrel clamp crap.

It's called brunishing. The hammer and the bottom of the bolt are steel. Both parts will polish themselves together over time. It's a completely normal and desired effect. Both surfaces will have a polished face perfect for a small amount of grease. After 12000 rounds, no material was removed from either the hammer or the carrier on mine.

Cutting the forend for those nuts sucked. I had to bed each one since the forearm is curved so much.

These show how tucked in the light is.

Seven hours later, it looks like a glazed doughnut. I don't have a bunch of pictures of the slaughterhouse. There was too much swearing going on, and I'm not all that proud of the work to be honest. By the end, it was mainly to just get it done. The epoxy doesn't look as bad in person, the light creates artifacts. Having to cut into the forearm to make a flush mounting position in such a thin stock was a challenge. I'm surprised it worked in the end honestly.

Here's my work area before I butchered it. As you can see, there is a lot of work to be done to get this mount into the forend.

From the back side, you must screw in these two bits that act as stand off points. They apply tension to the mount to pull it tight against the spiral ring. They also keep the mount from spinning. You end up with a pretty low profile setup.

Here the spiral lock ring is in place. It's kind of like a split key chain ring. It was a pain in the ass to get on. The edges of the split ring are razor sharp too. Pushed right into my thumb with that one.

Test fit your mount. You have to be absolutely certain that you don't drill this hole a little too big. The retaining ring on the outside isn't much bigger in diameter than the mount itself.

Here, the center is marked. Start with a small drill bit to create a pilot hole. I used a 1/16 to start. For this sling mount, I kept stepping up the bit size until I was at the required 1/2" hole.

Here's all the assembled crap. Freedom Fighter Tactical OEM Reproduction handguards. Impact Weapons Components SMC Scout Light Mount, MOE Carbine 4 slot top model. QD Micro Flush Sling Mount. Find the location inside the handguard that has enough clearance to not interfere with the magazine tube or the pistons. Once you've found your location, use a sharp punch to mark a center.

Alright... Parts came in on Wednesday. What a pain in the ass this was. It took me seven hours of filing, grinding, bending, gluing, drilling, praying, cussing, bleeding and so forth; but it is done, and it works! I nearly gave up at least half a dozen times. There is so much interference fitting going on in the inside of the forend, it isn't even funny. I had to reprofile the entire bottom of the mount with a ******* file to get as much clearance as I could get around the magazine tube and the ARGO. I had to use a three pound sledge and my vice to tweak the angle of the mount to align it with the barrel and to get the clearance I needed. Basically, I hammered the mount over about 30 degrees to the left, then tweaked the angled of the mounting arm. As expected, the mounting fasteners were an epic pain in the ass. If you cranked the fasteners down too much, it would deform the forend and cause them to bow away from the barrel. So I had to go with a lesser amount of torque, red locktite on the fasteners, then I epoxied the entire assembly together to prevent anything from backing out. If someone said they'd give me 200 dollars to do a set for them, I'd turn it down. It's that big of a pain in the ass. The sling mount worked out well. That was the first thing I tackled, and I only swore at the little lock ring that holes the device in place. I really like how flush mounted it is. I think anyone could install it without much risk of junking their forend. There are few places within the forend that have the clearance to install the sling mount unfortunately. Overall, I'm mostly pleased with the way it turned out. The fasteners on the outside are ugly, but I don't care. It dumped half a pound of weight off my M4. The light activation button is in the perfect spot. Barrel shadowing is about the same as what I had with the M80 rail. I'm not sure about the strength of the mount I made. I think a solid blow might knock the handguard off. The length of the light leverages against the forend. When squeezing the front of the light towards the barrel hard, it pushes inward, and you can see the forend bend in the middle and flex. That was before I sealed everything in epoxy, so hopefully that will add to some rigidity. The light is certainly low profile. The way I bent the mount pretty much tucked it flush with the barrel. If I was doing it again, I'd probably just live with the mount being on the outside of the forend. I'd then bend the mount to adjust for the inward angle. The mount bends pretty easy with a vice and three pivot points of force. I'm glad it's done, I never want to do that again!

Well, the stock is aligned correctly. If the stock is in the fully closed position, and it rotates without you pushing the button, then there is something wrong with that stock and it should be sent back to Promag. The same applies for the middle and fully extended position.

Never seen the Hot Shot Beamlokr before. There are some mixed reviews online. I find it hard to believe that the magnetic mount would be stable enough to hold up to 12 gauge recoil. Or from various bumps and knocks. The kinds of lights able to be attached seems to be rather limited too.

I like the picatinny forend, but I think it is part of a magazine tube extension rather than the forend. So you'd be stuck with their steel extension.

The BLAM4 fits pretty well on onto the weapon. The issue is the MOE rail only has that single fastener in the middle and the two locator tabs on the back. The tabs aren't fit together very well, so there is some play. I've considered drilling two holes through the rail and into the BLAM4 and pinning it in place, but I don't have access to a drill press at the moment to do it. Using some epoxy might fill in the holes and glue the rail to the BLAM4 also. Have you considered adding a set of Meprolight night sights?

Do you think your BLAM4 mount is strong enough to retain a laser's zero? I know for sure mine wasn't. Why are your iron sights useless with the weapon light at night? I never had a problem with using them on illuminated targets. As for the top rail, it depends on the mount design. If it is a cross bolt design like in an EOTech, the factory rail will be fine. If it is a lug design like the LaRue mounts, you will need to replace the rail.