StrangerDanger

The best option would be to add a Surefire X400 to your Briley mount, that way the light/laser would work in tandem from a single switch. Running the laser constant on is just as bad as running a light on constant on. You should have true momentary control over the activation. I ran an EOTech 552 on my M4 years ago. The EOTech gave up the ghost after about 5,000 rounds. It was still functioning, but the aperture was so fuzzy, I couldn't deal with it anymore. I tried to have it repaired by EOTech, but it seems they couldn't fix it. I was outside of warranty, so I sold it with full disclosure. I then moved to an Aimpoint T1 in 2009. I'm not sure if the shotgun recoil caused the EOTech issues or if it was just something that deteriorated over time. That unit also weighs a ton. It weighs 16.8 ounces! The XPS 2 weighs 8 ounces. The Aimpoint T1's weigh 3.7 ounces with the mount.

Benelliwerkes: This is pretty similar to what I'm putting together. Except I'm bypassing picatinny rails all together and I want to push the activation button to the very front edge of the handguard assembly. How did you attach that GearSector mount?

jsn124, The issue you've described is exactly why carriercomp revised their Titanium bolt handle to have a steel shank. Here is a photograph I took of a solid titanium Design Concept's bolt handle vs. a generation II carriercomp bolt handle. Note the wear of the tang where the detent engages inside the bolt carrier. The Design Concept's bolt handle still functions just fine. However, it is a wear item that will continue to deteriorate over time. There was always a concern using the solid titanium bolt handle as a disassembly tool for the ARGO system. The factory bolt handle: 12.5 grams Design Concepts: 8.23 grams carriercomp: 9.6 grams GG&G: 24.5 grams Weights were taken from a Dillon Precision electronic scale. With the GG&G unit installed, I could hear and feel the action cycling more sluggishly with weaker loads. I would not recommend exceeding the factory bolt handle weight.

Seems like you have to use the Briley extension to use their rail. So that would be a no go since I use a full length titanium tube.

http://www.graceshootingparts.com/magazine-extensions/benelli-magazine-extensions/benelli-m4-picatinny-rail-attachment This page shows something about set screws on the Briley mount.

I don't like mag tube clamps. They require tools to strip the weapon down. He Briley unit does put the rail in a good position though.

Snip. 10carlimit

Okay, as many of you know, I've tried pretty much every option out there to get a decent weapon light mounting solution. For the past few years, I've settled for running a Surefire M600c Scout Light on a Surefire M80 rail. I used a GearSector offset mount to put the light in a decent location. While this works, there are several significant points I dislike; 1. Weight. The M80, rail covers and the GearSector mount add approximately eight ounces of weight over the factory forearm. 2. Comfort. Even with low profile LaRue Index Clips, the thing is the size of a one liter soda. The factory forearm is perfect. 3. Barrel Shadow. The current setup sits too far to the rear. Now, I can fix problem 3 mostly by dumping the GearSector mount and moving to a Thorn Tail. This would push the light forward off of the handguard and would be much more comfortable. However, problems 1 and 2 are my primary concerns. I've tried the Blam4, and couldn't make it stable enough for rough use. I refuse to use barrel/mag clamps that require tools to disassemble the weapon. I've tried the SideArmor rail, it's a fail. So I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to have to make something myself. I just ordered a set of FFT reproduction handguards to chop up. Next, I ordered this mount: this is a Mount-n-Slot SMC mount made to attach to a Magpul MOE handguard. My plan is to modify the FFT left side forearm to fit this mount. I plan to mount the attachment point of the mount just ahead of where the piston sits. I'm going to have to get creative and remove some material from the forearm so the mount will hold the light parallel to the barrel. If you look at your forearm, this area is angled inward towards the barrel. Countersinking the base of the mount will also reduce sharp edges to catch my thumb on during recoil. I may use some sort of black epoxy to seat the mount to the forearm. I may need to 'fine tune' the mount in a vice with a hammer to change the angle of the dangle. I may need to source some longer fasteners due to the thickness of the forearm. I believe the forearm is plenty strong enough to support the weapon light. They are significantly thicker and better supported than the ar15 plastic handguards. If this works as I hope, I should be able to address all three of my outlined issues. Thoughts?

I don't think it would sell astronomically higher than the 11707's out there going for 2400 dollars or so. The m1014 is more of a collector's piece, and yours no longer has the collapsible stock. If you wanted to make the platform even more desirable, you should consider replacing the receiver extension with a functional three position extension. If I was to sell it, I would return it as much to stock as possible, try to sell the base weapon for the going rate of around 2500. Then sell the accessories off at a premium. You could get a 100 bucks easily for the charging handle alone. Probably 250 for the carriercomp tube for instant gratification.

Current production rails are the same as the original -- Crap. Carriercomp has stopped production of everything except Magazine tubes due to the scare. Later on, they may resume production. FFT indicates that they have a replacement rail for sale. It looks pretty similar to the carriercomp model. It would probably hold up just as well. http://freedomfightertactical.com/products-page/replacement-rail/

I wonder if the parts are interchangeable between the factory and the promag unit?

Logistically, he would run into trouble. The issued M1014 has a full length magazine tube installed. So the 14" would not fit without swapping the tube out for a shorter length model. It would come down to what his field commander authorized or looked the other way to. Chances are, his field commander would not permit this kind of modification.

I've used the Hexolite 32's. they're surprisingly low recoil for a slug. It's more like a 2 3/4 buckshot load. I shot a steel propane cylinder with it. One of those 15 lb tanks for a BBQ. The impact was pretty destructive. It pealed the cylinder wide open. There was an old 60's truck out in the desert. I sent one of them right through the car door. I figure it would go right through both sides of a current production vehicle. The steel peddles did come off and I found several in different areas of the target. They seem like a good choice if you're protecting yourself from bears or guys in plate armor.

Not to my knowledge. I went back to using the M80 instead.

Benelliwerks: The problem with the photo is the URL has a banned phrase here within it. Probably something like P-S-3 without the dashes. I had the same problem and had to re-upload photos to get a different URL string here. LaRue Index Clips are the best for wire management. The XT07 pressure pad has a 7" wire and the pad itself is approximately 3" in length. I used to have one attached to my MRP. I ended up removing it because I felt the momentary activation was somewhat finicky. If you do not have a picatinny rail to mount the pad to, you should get yourself a SR model switch. You can tape it wherever you like on your stock forearm. You could also drill four holes and run a zip tie through the handguard for additional security. I find this setup to be less than ideal, but it will work.

Looks like the daily driver. Sucks to see. Be thankful that it wasn't the Vette.

I couldn't vote for Mittens either. Without a doubt, if Mittens had won, he would be pushing for an AWB too.

Terry: Glad I could help. DKLoenne: I'd give this a 6 out of 10 for the hardness scale assuming you have the proper tools. It will get exponentially harder if you try to wing it with makeshift tooling.

If you're using the pistol grip or standard M4 stock, you can add a Limbsaver to it with the use of an adapter that Noveske makes.

Just look where the regular 11707's have bidded up to.

Please do! I was never able to remove that ring myself. I tried with two sets of picks until I gave up. I've put several in, that is easy. Getting them out is a pain. I just assume buy a new one. So people know what we're talking about, this is the Flexible Ring. It is what keeps the Recoil Spring Plunger from pushing through into the receiver. With and without the Flexible Spring installed

If we were closer, I'd help you do the install. I've wanted to do this write up for a few years now. Just finally got motivated enough to actually do it.

You mean the light is bumping against the receiver?

The Benelli M4's top rail is a known out of spec item. They tend to tear up optic mounts. Carriercomp and FFT make a replacement rail that is true spec. The Surefire x300 series can be adjusted by loosening the bottom hex screws and reinstalling the light onto the rail. Then remove the light and re-tighten the hex screws. On both my x300 ultra lights, I found that the light was extremely difficult to install on certain rails like the Noveske NSR. It was to the point that the rail was actually removing some of the plastic from the bottom of the light. Also, I assume you're using the P rail insert, not the U rail.

Thanks! I'll be editing some of the text over the next day or so to make it a little clearer. By the time I got to copying the text into these boxes, I was pretty tired of doing it. Pretty much the only reason to ever disassemble one of these extensions is if you have an older model M4 that you want to add a three position receiver extension to. Pulling the components out of the receiver extension should be done if the weapon is ever submerged or after 2500 rounds or so. Having a clean work area helps a lot. I have two 7' x 3' tables set so there is one in front and behind me. A vice mounted to one and a reloading press mounted to the other. Both have a large rubber mat on them to reduce scuffing and marring.