StrangerDanger

You ended up building that Glockworkz pistol? How's it shoot?

Wow, how heavy is that SBR?

Hi all, It's been pretty quiet here beyond the schizophrenic spam postings. So I figured I'd post up a project I've been working on lately. I'm building a dedicated 9mm AR15 on a DDLES Glock magazine lower. Basically, it's a lower cut specifically to use Glock magazines. Mainly the 33 round factory mags which I have 13 of. Currently, the build is being set up as a pistol while I get off my butt and get my NFA Trust rolling. Then it'll be converted to a SBR. I spend a few hours in the garage today modifying the crap out of a Noveske NSR 7" rail. I was struggling with how to mount a weapon light on such a short rail. The muzzle of the BCM chrome lined 9mm barrel is only going to stick out about two inches past the NSR once it comes back from ADCO. Naturally I didn't want the weapon light sticking out past the barrel and being counterproductive to my compact package. So I decided to go with a Surefire X300 Ultra at 500 lumens. I then purchased a Mossie Tactical mount that attaches to my Troy Industries Front Sight. I then got out the hacksaw and began carving up the NSR rail so I could shift the light and mount assembly further back relative to the rail. I then filed all the sharp edges and beveled everything so it looks factory. I then refinished the bare aluminum with Alumablack. This moved the light about 2.5 inches back. This put the activation rocker switches in the ideal location for such a short rail. I'm not a fan of tape switches, so they were out of the question. I'm still awaiting the delivery of my lower. I have a PWS pistol buffer for the extension for now. A single stage Geissele 3 Gun Trigger. Battle Arms Development 45 degree selector. Ambidextrous Raptor Charging handle. Magpul MOE K Grip. 12 ounce heavy 9mm buffer. Colt small parts. I still need to order an Aimpoint T1 2moa dot on an absolute co-witness LaRue mount. Here's what I have so far. The lower is just a place holder and test bed until the DDLES lower arrives.

Yep, Benelli will take care of you. At around round 9000, my M4 was in bad shape. Given it had a 4 port barrel, it had battered the bolt carrier group until the rails of the bolt carrier had mushroomed until it would bind in the receiver when it cycled to the rear. I called up Benelli and asked for assistance. They said to box it up and send it in. Three weeks later, the M4 returned with a brand new 2 port 11707 barrel, new bolt carrier group, new handguards, new ARGO pistons and plugs.

Looks like just a +2 extension. I am just watching the video from my phone though.

Here's the back side of the bolt release. You can see the circular shape at the left side. That is the back side of the button post.

Crap. Talked to Noveske. It only works for the fixed pistol grip stock.

Hi all, I was lurking around the Noveske website and I stumbled across this item: http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=ben-rpa&cat=178&page=1&search=&since=&status=&title= It seems to be an adapter for the Benelli stocks to fit a Limbsaver recoil pad to the factory stock. The items do not specify if it will work on the collapsible stock, but I assume that it does. The factory pads appear to be the same between the various M4 stocks. I'm certainly not recoil sensitive, but I'd gladly spend a few bucks to reduce recovery times between shots. Update: I did some leg work and disassembled both the collapsible stock and the pistol grip stock. While the rubber butt pads themselves are the same, the attachment screws are different. The fixed pistol grip stock uses self tapping screws that thread into the plastic stock while the collapsible stock screws into threaded aluminum. My only concern with the collapsible stock is the lack of a void within the stock for the secondary limb saver screws to protrude through. I'll contact Noveske to see if the bracket works with the collapsible stock model...

It certainly can be an issue. However, I've had the GG&G pad on my M4 since 2005, and this was the first failure. I had removed the part several times for various reasons. I lost track after 250 miles of back country trekking with the M4. The pad had taken several solid hits on barriers and some rocks over the years. I wish there was a way to add a fence around the button.

If I was buying now, I'd just get the Promag unit. It looks to be nearly an identical reproduction unit. Plus, you get the benefits of the parts being US made parts.

Hookster, Your pad is pretty new, it is probably the same as the new one I received. The edges of the pad are a lot more rounded and they knocked the edge of the serrations down some. Certainly a weak spot. If I take mine off again, I'm going to hold the pad in place with an adjustable wrench. That way the pad won't be trying to twist.

Like the title says, I broke the bolt release last month. During disassembly of the oversized pad, the pad began spinning the shaft in which it is threaded into. The post which is the button itself on the factory unit is machine fit into the stamped steel. The button itself was never meant to handle a torsional load. I attempted to stake the button in place. This partially worked, but I could force the button to spin if I tried. So I contacted GG&G about it. They said to send it in and they would repair or replace it. So I mailed it in around mid October. I received a brand new unit today. I noticed that they have revised the design somewhat. The edges are more rounded and the engagement face of the pad and the post are significantly better. If you are disassembling your GG&G pad for whatever reason, heat the unit up to soften the thread locker to reduce the chances of stripping this machine fit piece.

Nice write-up. Can you remove the bottom rail from the handguard?

Next time you have some vacation, come out to Arizona and enjoy some true freedom. Yes, we even allow comrades from California and Illinois carry firearms open or concealed carry without any Nazi papers or permits. It's so dangerous to be a criminal here that most crimes are relegated to burglary type crimes. Robbery is pretty rare for the obvious reasons. Vote with your dollars and abandon the sinking ship. Afterall, Arizona isn't all deserts. Arizona carry of a Benelli M4. Loaded of course.

Zeke, Yes, you'll be compliant. You have three US Made parts currently. When adding the Benelli factory collapsible stock, you must add four US made parts since the stock and the pistol grip count for two parts. Given that both of these parts are US made, you won't be penalized. Now, if you have a stock Benelli M4, and add this US Made stock set, and the handguard, you would not be 922 compliant. You'd still need one more US made part to get into compliance.

You can add the collapsible stock to your M4 in California if you pin it so it doesn't function. Another method is to get ahold of a M1014 or 11703 Receiver extension. This will prevent the stock from collapsing. Basically, you're just installing it for the look.

Nice! Are they now considered a USA production part?

Hi all, This is the same tube that is shipped with the 11707 and newer Benelli M4 models. The only reason you'd need to buy this item is if you have a M1014 or an 11703 model Benelli M4 that has the neutered receiver extension. These receiver extensions are extremely difficult to get, and quantities are very limited. I actually have these receiver extensions in hand, so you won't have to play any waiting games. The parts inside the receiver extensions are brand new. I purchased them from Brownells myself. There is a lot of misinformation concerning how to remove these recoil tubes from your weapon. Benelli will tell you that you will destroy the shotgun if you attempt to remove the extension. This is only true if you do not heat the threads to break the thread-locker. Once you've developed the testicular fortitude to complete this project, you must do the following: 1. Clear the weapon of ammunition and make it safe. 2. Disassemble the weapon. Remove the barrel, bolt carrier group, trigger group and the stock. 3. A. Remove the internals from the receiver extension. B. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring at the bottom of the receiver extension. C. Place a punch through one of the drainage holes to keep the spring from ejecting when you remove the plug. D. Unscrew the spring retainer. I found the best tool for this job is the magnabit seen here: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=492/Product/MAGNA-TIP-reg-WINDAGE-CLAMP-SCREW-BITS The Weaver Clamp Screw, 080-430-625WB. E. Contain the spring into the palm of your hand as the punch is removed. F. Tip the receiver back to allow the plunger to slide out of the recoil tube. After that, you should spray the recoil tube out with solvent to remove oil and debris that might catch fire during the next process. 4. To remove the receiver extension, you must heat the receiver extension's lock-nut with a heat-gun for approximately 30 minutes or more. A propane torch would also work, and be faster. However, a heat-gun will be slower and safer. Benelli coats the threads with a green thread-locker compound. Make sure you put the receiver in a vice. I found the best place to clamp to was below the rear sight and upside down. You do not want to crush the receiver with the vice. Apply just enough tension to hold the receiver in place. Make sure you apply some padding between your receiver and the vice. The nut is a 1 1/16" or metric equivalent box wrench. The nut is a common right-hand thread. Rightie Tightie, leftie loosey. It is best to used a closed box wrench to reduce the chance of slipping. Just slip it over the end of the receiver extension and seat it over the nut. You do not want to apply a lot of torque to the receiver. You want the heat to break the thread-locker's hold. I never used more than one arm to apply torque with. Once it is heated sufficiently, the nut will begin to turn slowly. Continue heating until the nut is completely removed and slides off the end of the receiver extension. 5. Now time for the hard part. Note the depth that the receiver extension is screwed into the receiver. Look at the inside of the receiver to note the depth. Continue to apply heat to the receiver extension's threaded area. Use an open ended 3/4" box wrench on the flat spots of the receiver extension to apply torque. The Receiver Extension is also common right-hand thread. This may take another 30 minutes with a heat-gun to break the thread-locker compound's hold. 6. Once the receiver extension unscrews, clean up the threads of the receiver with acetone or another solvent. A wire-brush will help. If you want overkill, use Locktite primer on the threads of the receiver, the lock-nut and the new receiver extension. 7. To reassemble, I highly recommend that you apply red thread-locker to the receiver extension at this time. screw the new recoil tube in so that the threads are flush with the inside of the receiver. If you thread the receiver extension too far into the receiver, you will not be able to install the collapsible stock's pistol grip portion. The pistol grip threads onto the external threads of the receiver extension near the lock-nut. You'll notice that you can thread the receiver extension into the receiver all the way by hand. The only thing that really retains the receiver extension is the thread locker and the lock-nut. The receiver extension must be timed in order to correctly use the collapsible stock. If you have the collapsible stock, install the tail portion of the stock at this time and collapse it fully. Use the comb of the stock as an index point to align the receiver extension. The comb of the stock should point dead center to the rear iron sights. Once aligned, remove the stock. Thread the lock-nut over the receiver extension and tighten it. Re-check your alignment with the stock to make certain it is straight. I highly recommend applying red Locktite to lock-nut. 8. This extension for sale is complete, so you do not need to reinstall your internal parts into it. 9. Install your stock. Verify that it is aligning properly. Give the thread-locker 24 hours to cure before firing the weapon. 10. Reassemble the weapon. Perform a function test of the weapon to ensure that it is functioning properly. Hopefully this tutorial is clear. This auction comes with the following brand new parts; 1. Benelli M4 3 Position Receiver extension (120) 2. Benelli M4 Main Spring (119) 3. Benelli M4 Stock Retaining Screw (45) 4. Benelli M4 Stock Retaining Ring (44) 5. Benelli M4 Flexible Ring (49 [Not Shown]) 6. Benelli M4 Recoil Spring Plunger (46) Naturally, I will assist anyone as much as I can with the disassembly/reassembly process. PayPal users, please add 4% for the service fee. For users here, 200 dollars shipped each.

If Benelli is involved, I'm betting they're nearly identical besides maybe some markings. They may simply be assembling the Benelli parts here in the US.

My hope is that the stocks are just remanufactured Benelli stocks. I noticed the name screw up too. The fact that they claim it is a four position stock make my eyes bulge. The pistol grip looks nearly identical to the factor one. Even the rubber flashing athe rear. The aluminum forging near the butpad is identical. I'm sure you can remove the rails if you need to.

They're probably incorrectly counting the install notch. The stock looks like an exact copy of the Benelli unit. If I needed a stock or compliance parts, this may be a good option. I've had hit and miss with promag's quality in the past.