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StrangerDanger

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  1. StrangerDanger
    Even a thin rubber washer might fix it. The rubber might supply enough bite between the stock and the fastener that it won't back out during the shock of recoil. I'm not sure what the mounting surface looks like inside the Mesa Stock. I never disassembled it when I handled it.
  2. StrangerDanger
    The M4 isn't an overly common shotgun for police work except for a recent transition for **** A PD. certain agencies allow personal weapons on agency letterheads. Those guys may be left to their own devices as far as modifications are concerned. Military users aren't going to have an option. There have been a lot of users here who have had it loosen up on them. Unobtanium comes to mind whom I know to be extremely competent with the M4. It seems a lot of users deal with the problem and blame themselves for not cranking the flathead down. Mesa should have made a ratcheting lock washer at the very least to prevent this kind of issue. My criticism of the stock is not meant to throw Mesa Tactical under the bus. It's more of a constructive criticism in hopes that they will improve upon the design for a version 2 at some point.
  3. StrangerDanger
    The Urbino was a bit of a bait and switch operation. It was hyped at the beginning in its production cycle and was geared to cost significantly more than what it now sells at. Near the end of the production cycle, miraculously the cost was cut almost in half for the consumer to much fanfare. At that point, either a lot of cost saving measures were implimented, or they realized no one would pay 250+ dollars for what was being offered. The threaded plug is not designed to handle the type of load that is placed on it. It's meant to float inside the extension at almost finger tightness. Only the snap ring keeps it from walking out the back of the extension. The only way I could see fixing it is to red locktite the plug into the extension. Then use the weaker purple thread locker on the Urbino's screw. If you had to get the plug out of the extension for whatever reason, you'd have to nuke it with the heat gun and purchase a specialized tool that indexes into the notch of the plug to help break it free. You'd have to soak the plug, Mesa's fastener and the end of the receiver extension in acetone prior to semi-permenant assembly. Too much lipstick for the pig for me.
  4. StrangerDanger
    I've looked at Limbsaver before. They have some shape to fit options available. I don't have a belt sander to shape my own pad, so I never messed with it. I don't find the recoil to be painful on the M4, but I would like to decrease my split times. I noticed your safety seems a bit stiff too. Dave's Metal Works makes an awesome replacement. Mine used to be like that until I trimmed about 1.5 coils off of the safety spring. It is still firm to push, but it doesn't require me to change my firing grip to deactivate it now. The collapsible stock has a distinct look. I like to be able to collapse it fully when I have it cinched to my hike pack.
  5. StrangerDanger
    My main issue with it has been the inability to secure the stock. The factory stocks are indexed in place by the trigger guard and cannot come undone. Taking the stock off for cleaning only really matters if you submerge the weapon o get in a lot of rain/snow. At that point, the receiver extension should be flushed out. I plan to do a pictorial on how to disassemble the receiver extension soon. This should be done every 2500 rounds or so. The extension collects a lot of debris in it. The main spring itself should be replaced every 5000 rounds. After 13000 rounds, the spring in mine was so weak that it began having chambering issues. The Urbino does have some distinct advantages over even the collapsible stock. The collapsible stock is less than ideal if you're using the factory iron sights in the middle position that mimicks the Urbino LOP. When using an optic, this doesn't matter. The limbsavers are nice too.
  6. StrangerDanger
    The guy with the shiner was disassembling the M4. So while he was unscrewing the fastener, he was actually unscrewing the threaded plug. So when it came undone, the mainspring pushed the stock off the back of the extension. Pow! right in the kisser! If it's just a range gun, it isn't the end of the world if it loosens up.
  7. StrangerDanger
    The loosening Mesa Urbino stock is a common problem. The issue is the fastener attaches to a portion of the receiver extension that wasn't meant for that kind of load. The part you're screwing into is a plug that unscrews from the extension. Only a snap ring keeps the plug from coming out. Users who have applied thread locker to the fastener have had to cut the stock open to recover the plug since it seizes to the fastener and the entire plug unscrews from the extension. One guy got socked in the face by the spring when it finally came off.
  8. StrangerDanger
    The low mount is the best choice for the Benelli M4 for most shooting styles. The low mount won't work on the typical AR15 because you cannot get your cheek low enough to the upper receiver to get a decent sight picture.
  9. StrangerDanger
    Brownells Dental Picks continued. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=25539/Product/STAINLESS-STEEL-S-4-SCALER
  10. StrangerDanger
    Brownells Dental Picks http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9809/sku=700-410-000/Product/Dental-Explorers-Set http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=25538/Product/STAINLESS-STEEL-DENTAL-SCALERS Buy these. I used to bend paperclips to try to capture spring legs. Do yourself a favor and buy these and save yourself the headaches involved. Note there are different styles available. I tend to use the scalers the most due to the tip strength.
  11. StrangerDanger
    Brownells Roll Pin Punch Set & Bench Block http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27552/Product/ROLL-PIN-PUNCH-SET Brownells Alignment Pins http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=364/Product/ALIGNMENT-PUSH-PUNCHES I only have the steel set of these. I really didn't have much purpose for the brass ones. However, sometimes it would be nice to have two of the same size alignment pins.
  12. StrangerDanger
    Brownells Roll Pin Holders Punches http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=781/Product/ROLL-PIN-HOLDERS Brownells Roll Pin Starter Punches http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20640/Product/ROLL-PIN-STARTER-PUNCHES
  13. StrangerDanger
    Another user sent me a tip about putting a self adhesive velcro sticker on the back side of the pad if you want to prevent it from marring your receiver. My receiver is already pretty well beat up, so it didn't matter to me if it scratch the finish. In a month or two, I'm going to do a pictorial on how to tear down the receiver extension when I get my extra extension back from WMD Guns.
  14. StrangerDanger
    At this point, the assembly is complete. Function test the weapon and the bolt release to ensure that it is performing correctly.
  15. StrangerDanger
    Here the Shell Stop Release pad is dry fit to the button face. A small amount of thread locker is recommended for the bolt pad face.
  16. StrangerDanger
    Here is why taping up the receiver is a good ideal. If you're installing the GG&G unit, note how the pad indexes with the keyed Shell Stop button. I noticed that the button will fit differently if you rotate it 180 degrees. In one position, the button rides higher up the receiver. Neither is wrong, it is just personal preference.
  17. StrangerDanger
    In this shot, it shows that the roll pin has not been seated far enough down the channel. A portion of the pin is protruding into the channel for the Bolt Carrier. In this image, the roll pin has been seated successfully far enough into the channel. Be sure that you do not seat it too far though. The roll pin should not protrude from the bottom of the receiver at all either.
  18. StrangerDanger
    The dimple on the end of the Roll Pin Starter Punch indexes with the hole in the Roll Pin. These keep the punch from slipping off the roll pin. This is the best way to hold the tool and still apply pressure to the bottom of the Shell Stop. The blue line shows the current position of the Shell Stop Pin. It's still obstructing the channel for the Bolt Carrier at this point.
  19. StrangerDanger
    This image has the bolt carrier channel superimposed over the receiver to show you the exact depth needed to seat the Shell Stop Pin. While driving the pin in, I squeeze the Shell Stop against the Receiver. This aids in aligning the holes for the pin to transit. When you're tapping the pin in, you have to listen and feel for the pin actually drifting. If it sounds like you're delivering a dead blow to the pin and it isn't moving, stop and back the pin out from the opposite way if needed. You don't need a lot of force to move this pin. I use a 4 ounce hammer with maybe a 4 inch swing. At this point, the roll pin holder has bottomed out against the ejection port. Now I'll switch to a roll pin starter punch.
  20. StrangerDanger
    This image shows the slave pin in place. I applied blue painters tape to the top of the ejection port to protect the finish. Here, I am using a roll pin holder that slips over the end of the Shell Stop Pin. I drove the pin back down and displaced the slave pin.
  21. StrangerDanger
    Place the Shell Stop and Spring back into the receiver. Try to keep the spring properly aligned at the rear of the Shell Stop. Compress the Shell Stop and insert a slave pin through the Shell Stop Pin channel until it makes contact with the Shell Stop Pin. It'll take some effort to align the Shell Stop. I typically look down the hole of the Shell Stop Pin channel and visually align the holes. Then insert the slave pin to keep the assembly together.
  22. StrangerDanger
    This image shows the Shell Stop and how it indexes with the Shell Release Lever. Now it is time to reinstall the Shell Stop. Insert the Shell Stop Spring into the Shell Stop.
  23. StrangerDanger
    This photo shows the base of the Shell Stop Pin drifted up high enough for the Shell Release to be removed from the receiver. The pin is visible protruding through the ejection port.
  24. StrangerDanger
    The Shell Stop Spring simply sits in the recessed groove at the rear of the Shell Stop. This is the back side of the Shell Stop. The edge at the left is what retains the shells within the magazine tube. The right side indexes with the Shell Drop Lever in the trigger group.
  25. StrangerDanger
    This angle shows the Shell Stop Pin protruding through the rail and part of the way out of the ejection port. As the punch is removed from the receiver, the Shell Stop and Shell Stop Spring will fall out of the receiver.
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