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StrangerDanger

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Everything posted by StrangerDanger

  1. StrangerDanger
    I find it best to use a punch to drive the Shell Stop Pin out from the bottom upward. I don't usually remove the pin completely from the receiver. I drift it upwards enough to remove the Shell Stop. Once the pin has been drifted into the channel that the bolt carrier reciprocates in, the punch will act as a slave pin holding the Shell Stop into the receiver.
  2. StrangerDanger
    This is the top of the Shell Stop Pin channel. The blue lines indicate the channel that the bolt carrier reciprocates in. The red line shows the placement of the Shell Stop Pin.
  3. StrangerDanger
    In this photograph, the Shell Stop Pin is annotated over the photograph. This is the only pin that retains the Shell Stop and Shell Stop Spring in place. In this photograph, the red line indicates the Shell Stop Pin channel. The Shell Stop Pin passes through the guide rails that the bolt carrier rides along.
  4. StrangerDanger
    Hi all, I had a request to do a detailed pictorial on the disassembly of the Shell Stop. Removal of the Shell Stop is the same for the factory and GG&G model. In fact, the GG&G model is simply a modified factory Shell Stop. Start out by unloading the weapon and setting the ammuntion away from the work area. Field strip the M4, remove the barrel assembly, bolt carrier and trigger group. The stock may be left on. This is a view of the inside of the receiver. It shows the placement of the Shell Stop Spring. The spring is a loose fit, so you should note its position before disassembly.
  5. StrangerDanger
    Good info. I might have to get a set of those longer punches. I went to the Starrett website, and found they had some longer models as well. Up to 300mm in OAL length. While that wouldn't do the bolt release on the AR15, it would cover most snags.
  6. StrangerDanger
    I have about 800 - 1,000 rounds through the FTT Trigger and Disconnector. Around 1,500 - 1,800 on the Geiselle Hammer. The trigger is certainly an improvement over stock. The parts are pretty inexpensive too. The trigger break is much more crisp and certainly lighter -- for what that matters on a shotgun. The Starrett punches are nice, I wish they made a set that was about 50% longer though. It seems almost every job I run into runs the punch right up to the taper.
  7. StrangerDanger
    There is certainly a major improvement for the trigger pull weight after replacing the trigger with the FFT unit. The disconnector and hammer don't really change much. They're mainly 922 compliance parts.
  8. StrangerDanger
    This is always an excellent reference guide.
  9. StrangerDanger
    The Freedom Fighter Tactical trigger is on the top, and the factory Benelli Trigger is on the bottom. The Freedom Fighter Tactical Disconnector is on the left, the factory Benelli Disconnector is on the right.
  10. StrangerDanger
    Install the Trigger Guard Pin Spring onto the Trigger Pin Axle Bushing. Note the grooves along the side of the bushing, the groove interface with the left and right side of the Trigger Guard Pin Spring if you consider the holes for the snap ring pliers as the top of the piece. I tap on the snap ring with a hammer and punch to make sure it is seated in the grooves properly. I would recommend applying a small amount of grease to the hooks of the Trigger, Disconnector and Hammer. Now reinstall the Trigger Assembly into the receiver. Install your bolt handle. Ensuring that the weapon is unloaded, cycle the bolt to ensure the Hammer is cocked, engage the safety and attempt to pull the trigger relatively hard. Wiggle the trigger laterally to see if the hammer falls. Now disengage the safety and press the Trigger. The hammer should fall. Repeat this step several times to ensure that the components are working properly. Now test the disconnector. Pull the trigger and hold the trigger to the rear. After the hammer drops, cycle the bolt release manually while still holding the trigger to the rear. The Hammer should remain to the rear, if it falls forward, there is a problem. If the hammer is held to the rear, release the trigger. You should hear an audible click as the disconnector disengages and the hammer engages the Trigger Hook instead. The Hammer should not fall forward, if it does, there is a serious problem. Attempt this test several times to ensure proper function and safety. These photographs will compare the factory and aftermarket Trigger, Disconnector and Hammers. The Geissele/carriercomp Hammer is on the left. The Freedom Fighter Tactical Hammer is in the middle. The factory Benelli Hammer is on the right.
  11. StrangerDanger
    Tap the Trigger Pin Bushing in with a punch and hammer all the way until the groove is visible. Using your snap ring pliers, stage the Trigger Guard Pin Spring.
  12. StrangerDanger
    Install your hammer with the hooks facing towards the rear of the Trigger Assembly. Now you need to align the hole in the Hammer with the Trigger Pin Bushing. The easiest way is to observe the hole from the opposite side to align the two holes. As alignment is met, press the Trigger Bushing Pin into the assembly. I press it in by pressing it against the work bench while I look from the opposite side. Here, the Trigger Pin Bushing has beeen pushed most of the way through the Trigger Assembly.
  13. StrangerDanger
    Insert the Hammer Spring Cap and Hammer Spring into the Trigger Assembly. Compress the Hammer Spring cap and hook the tab of the Shell Release Lever over the top of the Hammer Spring Cap. You'll need to apply pressure to the Shell Release Lever so the spring tension of the Hammer Spring won't launch the spring and cap across the room.
  14. StrangerDanger
    At this point, I'd recommend applying some grease to the hole in the hammer and along the sides around the hole. Assemble the Hammer Spring Cap and Hammer Spring.
  15. StrangerDanger
    Here the spring is engaged properly. At this point, the trigger and disconnector is completely reassembled into the Trigger Assembly. Now, we'll move back to installing the hammer. Using a punch, press the Trigger Pin Bushing back out until the red line in the photograph below.
  16. StrangerDanger
    Once the spring loop is in place, push the Trigger Pin the rest of the way into the Trigger Assembly. Now, using a dental pick, carefully bent the front leg of the Shell Release Lever Spring up, and hook it on the tab of the Shell Release Lever.
  17. StrangerDanger
    Shell Release Lever Spring Insert the spring into the Trigger Assembly with the small leg towards the rear of the Trigger Assembly and the loop at the top. Using a dental pick through the Trigger Pin hole and seat it in position so that the Trigger Pin can push through the loop of the spring. Do not try to engage the spring on the Shell Release Lever yet.
  18. StrangerDanger
    With the slave pin in place, push the Trigger Pin in from the opposite side to displace the slave pin. Note that you do not want to push the Trigger Pin all the way into the assembly yet. You still need to re-install the Shell Release Spring. So push the Trigger Pin through the assembly to where the blue line shows in the photo below.
  19. StrangerDanger
    Hold the Trigger Assembly sideways as you re-insert the Trigger. You want to do this so the Trigger Spring won't fall out. Note the notch at the rear of the Trigger, this will engage with a pin in the rear of the Trigger Assembly. Compress the Trigger spring and align the Trigger Pin hole. Insert your punch through the hole to act as a slave pin.
  20. StrangerDanger
    Re-install the Trigger Spring into the Trigger. The spring simply presses in. Now you have a fully re-assembled Trigger and Disconnector.
  21. StrangerDanger
    At this point, you can thank baby Jebus for your good fortune that you didn't loose that tiny pin. Now, use a larger roll pin punch to seat the Disconnector Pin flush with the trigger.
  22. StrangerDanger
    Insert your Disconnector as shown in the photograph. Prepare yourself for some swearing. Compress the Disconnector so that you can pass your roll pin punch through the retaining pin hole. This will act as a slave pin and hold the assembly together as you try to insert the Disconnector Pin. You can attempt to use a roll pin holder like shown below to assist with installing the Disconnector Pin, however the pin is so small that it is difficult to use since it barely protrudes from the Roll Pin Holder.
  23. StrangerDanger
    At this point, you have fully disassembled the Trigger Assembly as much as needed to install the new Hammer, Disconnector and Trigger. At this point, it is time to reassemble. Install the factory Disconnector Spring and factory Disconnector Plunger into the Trigger you plan to use. The spring slips over the end of the Disconnector Plunger and presses into a hole in the trigger as shown below.
  24. StrangerDanger
    Using a punch, tap out the small Disconnector Pin. This will allow you to remove the Disconnector, the Disconnector Plunger and the Disconnector Spring. The Disconnector Plunger is under spring tension, so keep your thumb on it while you pull out the punch. Remember, once you push a roll punch all the way through, the punch will act as a slave pin and hold the assembly together.
  25. StrangerDanger
    Now, to further disassemble the trigger and disconnector. The Trigger Spring simply pulls out of the Trigger.
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