StrangerDanger

FFT Disconnector

FFT Trigger FFT Hammer

BLAM4 Mount. It isn't perfect, but it is the cheapest, lightest and simplest solution for mounting a weapon light.

I just installed a second set of FFT parts lastnight in a newer production 11707. No issues whatsoever. No failures as of yet on the first set in around 400 - 500 rounds. Some marring on the front face of the hammer. It appears to just be the finish getting scuffed. It's a non-issue.

Alumablack. Brownells sells it. You rub it on, and it turns the bare aluminum black.

They're very destructive and low recoil. The only negative about them is the price. I shot an old car door from like the 80's, and it whistled right through it. The recoil is similar to a high brass 2 3/4 buckshot load. The peddles do come off upon impact on the Hexolite32's. The core just keeps trucking on through the target. I just found a new test item for them. I got ahold of a oxygen bottle that is about 1/3 of an inch thick. 45acp simply leaves a smudge on it. Green tip SS109 223 will punch through one side, and deform the steel on the back side.

I've fired a bunch of the Hexolite 32's through my M4 without any issues. They are pretty mild when it comes to recoil.

I agree. That's what it looks like in the picture above. Either the hole was drilled slightly out of place, or the finish application changed the hook's spec.

Great to hear. Function test the **** out of it. I'd even jolt it on the rubber butt pad on the ground. So do you have to mail the defective ones back?

I made a huge dunk tank out of a 5 gallon paint bucket with 3 gallons of mineral spirits, odorless stuff. I'm working on making an inline filter I can run the solvent through to collect much of the debris. Even without, the debris just settles to the bottom. It's awesome for large parts. I have a little wire basket to throw small parts in that hangs on the lip of the bucket. It's pretty safe stuff on plastics. Even the cheesy plastics on my Dillon 650 press are immune to the effects. Where as solvents like Breakfree will tear up the plastic real fast. It strips all the oils from the weapon, so expect to relubricate the item fully afterwards. Breaking parts down completely helps a lot. I didn't locktite the magazine extension of my M4 in place so I could dunk the entire receiver in the bucket. It's had no effect on the white rings around night sights either. You should wear gloves. It won't effect your hands too much, but if you get it on your forearms, it'll give you a chemical burn with long term exposure. It's kind of like a sunburn. Naturally running something this big with Mpro7 would be far better, but that stuff is very expensive. Some day I'll get me an ultrasonic cleaner.

I considered doing this before the H20 came out. WMD Guns will put Nickel Boron on it which may even be better than the NP3. However, there are a few parts I'm not sure if they can be removed. Such as the ejector that is riveted in place. I've never removed the rear sight either, it looks like a PITA. Also small parts like the detent and spring in the barrel that ratchet the magazine cap might give you grief. On the benefit side, you would get the job done much cheaper than the premium the H20's run for. Another approach is to just send portions of the weapon in to have finished. I never really cared much for the grey external finish of the H20, I just wanted the lubrication properties and cleaning benefits. WMD guns has a service where they will paint the exterior whatever color you want. It might be worth calling them and talk to one of their reps to see how feasible the job is.

I'm sure this will get straightened out. The disconnector appears to be barely hanging on your hammer hook. The finish was probably a little heavy on it which is causing it to hang up. Since the hammer isn't the issue, it'll be on either the disconnector or the trigger itself as being out of spec. When the hammer hook pushes down, it hits the disconnector. This is why it has the spring loaded detent. This allows the disconnnector to be pushed back slightly to allow the hammer to pass by, then engage the disconnector hook as long as the triggger is pulled to the rear. It appears to be catching on the disconnector even with the trigger released. If you pull the trigger pack out, and cycle the hammer by hand, did it hang up on the disconnector? There are always what are called tollerance stacking events for any mechanical device. No matter how precisely made. It is difficcult to control the tollerances on a finish.

Have you tried installing say just the hammer and testing it to see if the failures happen? Also, you'll want to apply a small amount of grease to the sear contacts for optimal performance. Basically, when the weapon fires and you hold the trigger to the rear, the hammer is cocked by the cycling bolt carrier. The discconnector then engages because the hammer is still pulled to the rear. This prevents the hammer from just falling again aas the bolt carrier cycles forward since the trigger is still pulled. As you let off of the trigger, the hammer hook disconnects from the disconnector and engages the trigger hook. The hammer is then ready to fall when the trigger is pulled again. Your hammer should never be held by the disconnector when the trigger isn't pulled to the rear. This is where your problem resides.

The trigger spring does go in that hole in the base of the trigger. If you pushed the trigger all the way forward, would the disconnector disengage? Since the factory FCG works, this alludes to the fact that nothing else is wrong with the weapon. Good to hear that FFT is sending you a new set to try.

The pictures helped a lot. The hammer is hanging up on the disconnector. When the trigger is let go, the hammer hook should come off the disconnector and engage the trigger hook. So either; 1. The hammer is out of spec (possible but unlikely) 2. The Disconnector is out of spec (Unlikely) 3. The trigger is out of spec. Or, it is possible that the trigger spring is not installed correctly. I would install the factory hammer and see if the issue still exists. If the problem is still present, pull the trigger pack out and verrify that the spring is seated correctly and functioning. The spring should be returning the trigger to its forward position. If you can manually pull the trigger forward, there is something wrong. Listen to hear if the disconnector is disengaging and allowing you to pull the trigger normally. If the spring seems fine, swap to the stock disconnector on the FFT trigger and try again. If the problem still exists, swap back to the stock trigger. The goal is to determine which part is causing the problem.

Can you take pictures of the trigger pack? I'm not sure what you mean by saying you were having issues with floating a round. You mean having a round chambered, and another round on top of the elevator? You could try dropping the stock parts back in one at a time and performing the function check. I'd start with the hammer. Then do the disconnector. Then the trigger. If it still doesn't work, try it with the stock parts. If it still does not work, something may be reassembled incorrectly.

Never used the GG&G unit, but I bet the added LOP it creates extends the stock out further so that it cannot engage the last groove on the collapsible stock to allow it to rotate into place. I'd use the Mesa unit.

I've installed a few. It's a PITA. Knock out the roll pin in the pistol grip. Then pull out the metal block and tensioner that are inside the stock. I found it easiest to drill the block out in a vice. I don't recall what size drill bit I used, I gauged it by the diameter of the hardware sent by Mesa. You will also need to drill out the pistol grip stock's plastic with that same size bit. Test fit the hardware through the holes, and through the metal block. Reassemble the block into the stock, and position the tensioner the way it came. Install the hardware. Do a test fit to be sure thhe fasteners meet and thread into each other. Once reassembled, I had to run the drill through the assembly to get it all to linne up. Once it all fits, reassemble it with a bit of blue locktite on the threads.

I wonder if Kip would just sell the rails in the white? It wouldn't be very hard to send it off to have coated yourself. Pretty sure Ion Bonding would stick to the titanium bolt handles. The Design Concepts ones I have is titanium and is black and I don't think it was grown in the Elysian fields before being magicked down to Brownells for the gracious consumer (me) to purchase. For the rails, there are a bunch of places that will do Type III anodizing.

Long term storage should be left clean with a light, visible coating of oil on steel surfaces to resist rusting.

Found these on Gunbroker. Looks awesome. Glad to see these are out there already.

Same temps here in Arizona, without the east germany feel. Love those 14" barrels.

+1 to pretty much everything KB Fab said. The mounting system is a big fail IMO. The part the stock is using to screw into was not meant to be used in that manner. The threaded portion itself is loosely threaded into the receiver extension. I know of several incidents where people had issues with the stock breaking loose on them during firing. So they opted to apply locktite to the screw. This caused a bigger cluster F*** when they attempted to remove the stock for maintenance. The threaded portion was fuzed to the screw and the entire assembly unscrewed from the receiver extension. The small snap ring at the base of the extension sheered off or was stuck between the two free spinning parts. The recoil spring flies out along with the plunger. Most ended up having to cut the stocks open to get their parts back. From the cases I'm aware of, Mesa did warranty the stock. Several rather expensive M4 parts had to be purchased as a result of the damage however.

Even after 13k, mine looks nothing like that. The part is surely defective or there is a problem causing the abnormal wear. Keep an eye on the replacement and see if it is wearing the same.