StrangerDanger

These guys have a poser type review of the tan model in 1080p resolution. You might see what you need. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RvyHuDrTFI&feature=related

I can re-recreate the situation by manually cycling the shotgun (unloaded of course). Pull the trigger, and drop the hammer. Manually cycle the bolt to the rear, which engages the hammer hook onto the disconnector. Begin cycling the bolt forward slowly. You'll notice that if you pull the trigger at this time, the disconnector will be functioning fully and the hammer will not drop. As soon as the bolt cycles forward enough to drop the shell elevator, if you pull the trigger during this stage and forward, the hammer will drop on the still cycling bolt. The hammer ends up riding the bolt carrier home with a live round in the chamber. Even though the failure is induced, the weapon is safe and there is no risk of the round igniting out of battery since the bolt must fully rotate and seat into the bolt carrier for the firing pin to protrude enough to make contact with the primer. The hammer travels much faster than the bolt cycles, so it can catch up with the cycling carrier easily. I sent my M4 to Benelli in 2008 to see if there was something wrong with the trigger pack. I thought that maybe the hammer was slipping between the disconnector and the trigger hook. They said everything was in spec. I've calculated the shot times to be at roughly .1875 seconds. How fast the weapon cycles depends on a few variables. How stout you're holding the weapon. The dram of the rounds being fired. Climate (cold really slows things down). Mainspring life and cleanliness. Weighted options such as bolt handles (I run a lighter than stock Design Concepts bolt handle). Proper lubrication of the weapon. Some weapon modifications can cause the cyclic rate to slow down, such as a Tacstar shell carrier. Here is a short video of myself inducing this failure on the very last round. Note that the rounds are high brass #6 field loads. Target was a one gallon milk jug at 15 - 20 feet. All rounds on target. Seven rounds of high brass 12 gauge on target in under 1.5 seconds is pretty devastating. A real testament to the Benelli M4. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_haUjtatkk You can see on the last round, I had a hammer down situation. I tried pulling the trigger again. Then cleared the weapon when I knew it was a dead stick and would need to be manually cycled to be brought back into the game. Had there been more rounds in the magazine tube, I could have shell dropped, and manually charged the weapon and continued.

carriercomp states that their titanium tube weighs 5.5 ounces. The factory tube is about 10.5 ounces. So you'll reduce the front end weight roughly 5 ounces. However, with a full length tube, you will be adding two additional rounds. Each round weighs approximately 2 ounces. Without a doubt it is worth it though. Since if you went with a steel unit, you'd have the 10.5 ounces, plus the weight of the extra ammunition. Plus, steel can rust. There is YouTube video of the titanium tubes used to make carriercomp's tubes being run over by a truck without deforming. The coating carriercomp uses is extremely tough. I figured it would scratch off from me pulling the barrel assembly over it. I was looking at it earlier today, and there isn't a single mark on it. I've had the tube installed since 2009. Plus, all the extra goodies you get from carriercomp are nice. The Wolff spring is much better than the factory piece of crap. Your shells will eject onto the elevator with authority. The US made follower is a nice feature to bring you one part closer to 922 compliance.

It wouldn't be very easy to do anyway. Sure, you could cut off the sling loop, but you'd need to cut the groove that indexes the mount in one spot. I think they cut it back too much inside the sling loop to engage the barrel. If the fit of the mount is as loose as the factory sling mount, your light is going to be moving quite a bit. I'm considering one solely to push my QD mount from GearSector onto. That way it isn't anywhere near my weapon light to obstruct my hand from activating the momentary/constant on button. I agree with Unobtanium on the balance of the weapon. I'd rather everything be even, but it just isn't feasible. What I have found is that it is better to pull the offset mounted object closer to the center line of the weapon. The further you get away from the center line, the more leverage works against you. Plus the object snags more then. That's why I put together the Surefire M80 with the GearSector offset mount and a Scout light. The fit is tight against the barrel of the weapon. So much so I had to modify the rubber of the M80 to allow the GearSector mount to fit.

Interesting mount. Here are more photographs of it. http://www.corpstechgroup.com/CTG_S_BLAM4.php I haven't thought of a method of installing it with a sling and a light both on the left side of the weapon. The amount of rail provided isn't enough. I may buy one when they are back in stock to move my sling mount on a QD mount further forward. If you do not use a sling, this mount would easily replace a Surefire M80. I believe you could even use a GearSector offset mount for a Scout light to position the light in an ideal location. It also appears that the mount can be flipped so that the rails face forward rather than towards the handguard. So you could push a mounted light pretty far forward.

You shouldn't have any issue with the heatgun and the camo finish.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_haUjtatkk Lets try this. 7 rounds of high brass #6 shot in about 1.5 seconds. No real world value in this. I was trying to see if I could still beat the disconnector with high dram loads. All rounds were on target, a one gallon milk jug at 20 feet. On the final round, I beat the disconnector. Hammer down on the live round in the chamber. Manual cycle was required to clear.

If I recall, the Surefire M80 weighed 5 ounces over the weight of the factory handguards. The trouble is, once you start slapping accessories on it, the weight goes up rapidly. Even adding rail covers alone will add another 2 - 4 ounces. Add a AFG or a FVG, and add another 3, 4 or 5 ounces. Add a light like a Surefire Scout, add another 5 ounces. So right there alone you've added a pound of weight. The factory handguards are far more comfortable than the M80 is. The only reason to use an M80 is if you have a weapon light to mount, or if you just cannot live without a FVG of some sort. Spend extra if a lighter weight option for parts exist. Titanium full length magazine tubes are a no-brainer in my opinion. The weight savings offsets the weight gained by the extra capacity.

I'm still interested in this. Kip had mentioned in the past that he had a modified geometry for the disconnector to reduce the hammer drop issue. As soon as the shell elevator drops, the hammer will fall if the trigger is pulled while the bolt is still cycling forward. You end up with a hammer down on a live round in the chamber. Even with high brass loads, I can beat cyclic action and induce this failure.

Screen capture from today. Shooting high brass birdshot #6.

To clarify you should buy the following: 1. Carriercomp/Geisselle Hammer. 2. Carriercomp or Brownells produced US made follower. 3. FFT Stock reproduction forearm or you could add a Mesa Tactical Urbino stock. If you decide to go to a collapsible stock, you'll be forced to replace the OEM magazine tube with a US one with the current aftermarket.

I believe benelliwerkes is designed to be fired with the stock fully collapsed if I recall. Hence the tall mount requirement.

Love the username. The muted titanium charging handles look pretty slick. They're not shiny like you're thinking.

Bump for the OP. The new price is about as good as you're going to get.

An extension won't count towards a US made part, but it will function fine.

Looks well thought out. I really like the 3gungear swappable shell carriers. Best side saddle out there in my opinion.

Your M4 was sold to you in compliance. However, the addition of a full length magazine tube will require you to add enough US made parts to bring the imported parts count down. Fortunately these days, this is a rather easy prospect. You must replace three (3) specific parts to maintain 922 compliance with the pistol grip stock. If you plan to add the factory collapsible stock, you'll need to replace four (4) specific parts. 1. Stock 2. Hammer 3. Forearm 4. Magazine Tube 5. Magazine Follower To be clear, I do not believe anyone has ever been hassled by the cops about this since most cops simply aren't aware or do not care. You're more likely to be hassled by a douche range Nazi at your local range.

You can break the weapon in with cheap high brass buckshot and slugs from Walmart. They sell 15 rounds for like 10 dollars. Or, you can use even cheaper high brass birdshot. I believe it is about 10 dollars for 25 rounds. I'd then run 200 rounds of bulk pack 12 gauge from Walmart through it to determine if it is broke in or not. I'd get the full length magazine tube as my first upgrade. I'd opt for the carriercomp Titanium magazine tube which also comes with the US made follower and a higher quality Wolff magazine spring. I'd recoommend buying the carrierrcomp hammer at the same time so you'd be 922 compliant with the factory pistol grip stock on it.

Item received. Exactly as advertised. Thanks a lot!

Atlantic lobsters only, not Pacific ones.

DMW also makes a full length steel tube for the M4.

Is it steel or titanium? Steel would likely be SOCOM. Titanium other than carriercomp would be FFT.

Is it a carriercomp, SOCOM or FFT tube? If it's a carriercomp tube, I'll take it.

No kidding. Awesome deal.

The spring retainer isn't mandatory. Some even say they get a little more room inside the magazine tube to deal with slightly out of spec shotgun shells. My M4 never had one in it when I purchased it. I never knew I was missing anything until about two years ago. I bought one from Brownells and put it in. I find it to be better to have the retainer in than out. Usually, I have little reason to disassemble the magazine tube.