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Canazes9

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About Canazes9

  • Birthday 06/26/1968

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  1. The barrel/receiver & bolt assembly must be removed from the rifle. When the assembly is removed, the bolt can be moved further rearward than it can while attached to the rifle. Move the assembly rearward while pulling on the charging handle. There is a notch in the receiver assembly that allows the charge handle to be removed. When the notch and charge handle are lined up, the charge handle pulls free fairly easy. David
  2. Canazes9

    R1 in 308

    Benelli dropped all the short action cartridges in the the R1 platform. The R1 is a long action platform, chambering in a short action platform doesn't provide any benefit over a long action counter part as the rifle will not be any shorter or lighter. I cannot see any benefit to purchasing an R1 in 308 over 30-06 - the 30-06 will weigh the same, be the same length and have very soft recoil while the additional powder capacity will push the chosen bullets slightly faster. Additionally, cheap, accurate bulk ammunition is readily available for the 30-06 just like the 308. As to why they dropped them, I can only speculate but I would assume it's the #1 reason in situations like this - they didn't sell very well.... David
  3. Nice Buck! Congratulations! David
  4. 1 in 11 twist rate will stabilize just about any hunting weight bullets commonly available in the 338win. It will certainly stabilize 250 grain bullets and have heard of people achieving good stabilization w/ 1 in 11" and 300 grain bullets. Don't over think it, buy the ammunition you want and test it in your rifle to see how it shoots.... David
  5. I was wondering the same thing! - I was also thinking getting it back in was going to be a challenge. Glad you got it back together and thanks for posting this thread. I definitely learned something! David
  6. Damn i hate this forum - I posted this morning, said it needed mod approval to post. I assumed it would be up shortly... One more try, this time using the jacked up image attachment that this forum approves of: The piece goes where you think it does, 180deg different rotation then what you're showing. [ATTACH=CONFIG]984[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]985[/ATTACH]
  7. When I saw where you were planning on sticking that ring I thought, "NO". Disassembled my rifle again to take pictures to show you were wrong and what do you think I found... There it is, apparently it is a reinforcement for where the hot gasses are bed from the barrel - the gap in the ring is should be oriented about 180deg different than shown in your pic. I learned something new for sure! I don't understand how it came out, hope it's not too difficult to put back in place. Please let us know. David
  8. Pictures aren't opening, please try 'em again or pm me. I will check my rifle and take pictures for you... David
  9. Ok, now I don't know what to say! I was thinking that it must be a smaller part than that, but w/ a quarter in the picture for perspective.... I just disassembled my rifle again (I have two R1's have had them apart many, many times...), spent 5-10 minutes looking over the rifle and looking at the parts diagrams. I don't see where that part could have come from the R1, it's definitely not on the parts list and there are a limited number of places in the rifle where a part of that size and shape could be and it's not there on my rifle. Which leads me to.... Are you sure that came out of your rifle? Maybe it was on the bench, unseen and got knocked during disassembly leading you to believe it fell out? Have you attempted to put the rifle together w/o it? Does everything appear to function properly? David
  10. I have no idea! Take pictures from a different angle, include something in the picture for perspective (a quarter, etc.) Take pictures of your rifle assembly. We'll figure it out.... David
  11. Canazes9

    R1 Sling

    My sling recommendation - A-1 Murray quick set sling: http://www.murraycustomleather.com/slings.htm You need it 6" longer than the standard length for the R1. I have one for my son's R1 and my R1 and really like them. Nice to be able to adjust the length for several different types of field carry on the fly and have the adjustment hold. No trouble with swivel - it won't loosen the forearm nut. The sling comes w/ QD mounts, removes in seconds for cleaning/bench rest shooting, etc. David
  12. Canazes9

    Wsm in r1

    Agreed. Now as to why the 300WSM wasn't selling well in the Benelli R1 line-up? Well as mentioned before, the receiver is the same size and weight in the R1 line-up regardless of caliber, so their is no "short action" caliber benefit. All of the WSM cartridges had varying degree of feed problems (in all action types, not just the R1) due to the rebated rim design. The 300WSM has less case capacity than the 300 win magnum and has no where near the number of available factory loads. The 300WM is the clear winner in this platform. David
  13. Not familiar w/ that mount. If there is a difference in thickness in the base under the front ring compared to the back ring, the thicker area should be under the rear ring, the thinner under the front ring. Same way with factory rail. If you have run out of vertical adjustment and the gun is still shooting low, raising the rear of the scope will lower the crosshairs compared the bullets point of impact. It can be difficult to determine if the rail is thicker on one end or the other just eyeballing it, it's only going to be different by a few thousands of an inch (small changes on the rifle produce large effects 100 yards down range). If the rail is flat w/ no difference in thickness front to back, I would sent it back and use the factory rail. The only shimming option you have at this point is to shim inside the rear ring. I have used that on 22's and air rifles, but that's a mighty poor "fix" for a high power hunting rifle - the recoil will eventually cause the shim to shift affecting POI. HTH David
  14. Canazes9

    New R1

    Congratulations! I hope you enjoy yours as much as my son & I have ours! My favorite additions are my Murray A1 quick set rifle sling and my Trijicon Accupoint scope: http://www.murraycustomleather.com/slings.htm If you order an A1 tell Dick you need it 6" longer than his standard A1, that's what mine is: The R1 is an accurate rifle, but both mine and my sons required 100+ rounds down the barrel before it started to tighten up. I would buy 2 or 3 boxes of cheap winchester white box 150grn soft points and shoot them all before I even bothered to work on finding the best load for your rifle. The R1 does not like to be rested on the end of the forestock, rest it closer to the receiver for better results. Also keep in mind that is a really thin barrel and heats up quickly - give it time to cool between shots if you want tight groups. Both my rifle and my son's rifle are 30.06's, they both shoot MOA w/ Hornady SST 150 grn bullets, a load that also works well on deer and the countless hogs we have here in Texas (and the occasional coyote;)) - might give them a try in your rifle and see if they work for you. HTH David
  15. Congratulations on your new R1! Yes, medium rings will work just fine w/ a 56mm bell when using the factory supplied picatinny rail: Truly you don't "need" a 56mm objective for low light hunting, most any quality glass will work well. What the big bell buys you is the ability to use higher magnification in lower light, which can be useful when shooting open fields and the like (as is sometimes required when night hunting hogs). I've owned and used many upper medium tier scopes, also have had the opportunity to look through and use many others from friends. Truly the Trijicon accupoint series is one of the best bargains in the business. The fiber optic system provides an infinitely adjustable illuminated dot that is always at "just right" brightness levels. Great glass for the money, equal to comparably priced systems without the fiber optics illuminated reticle. The R1 excels as a hog rifle, hope you enjoy yours! David
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