Steve Rose
-
Posts
235 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Posts posted by Steve Rose
-
-
-
Midwest Gun Works has some SBE 2 barrels which (along with a new forearm) should work on your gun
-
Are you pressing in the bolt release while inserting the trigger group?
-
It should run just fine with decent quality 1200 fps (3DE) 1 1/8oz loads.
-
Here is another idea. This device acts as a bolt release lever with no modification to the factory Latch Carrier https://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/bolt-parts/bolt-hardware/benelli-rapid-bolt-release-tabs-prod61488.aspx
-
The bolt release “button” is an add on part. You will need to drill and tap the stud on your factory part to accept the screw for the button (buttons available from Nordic, Briley, Taran Tactical, Arrendondo, etc). The tapped size will vary based on the brand (generally 4-40, 5-50, or 6-32.
A hint...DO NOT drill all the way through the factory part. The stud can break loose easily. A blind tapped hole about .250” is best
-
More than one way to skin the cat, and your intended use comes into play.... I prefer the sling sockets opposite the ejection port side so I can sling the gun tight on my back without the bolt handle gouging me. Drop the rear QD about half way down the stock and its away from your face when the gun is mounted. Yeah, the picture is a rifle but my scatter gun hangs the same way when slung in matches. You get the idea.
-
I use a lot of those Noveske QD sockets myself.
-
“Flite Control” buck is a different animal from the traditional buck shot load. The Flite Control will perform best with little or no choke constriction. The idea is that the buckshot stays in the wad for a few yards after exiting the barrel and holds the shot in a tighter pattern on the target (and it works!)
Try your Improved Cylinder or Cylinder (no constriction) choke tube and see what works best with that Flite Control buck. Too much choke constriction slows the wad at the muzzle letting the shot exit the wad sooner and negating the effect of the “Control” design.
-
Take the trigger group out and check the spring tension on the Carrier (floor plate).
Does it have tension with the trigger group out of the gun? If so, check for any binding/rubbing of the Carrier, Bolt latch (dog) and/or its spring against the side of the receiver where the trigger group is installed.
If the Carrier has no spring tension with the trigger group out of the gun check that the spring and strut are not bent and the area where they contact the trigger housing and bolt latch is not damaged or hampering the spring compression or movement.
Link to a schematic:
-
This is, indeed, my last M4.
Really?....We'll see about that....
-
Post that video showing the loading procedure and problem.
The M4 shell carrier SHOULD move back down after loading each shell. The shell latch (shell stop) will hold the shotshell in the magazine tube – if the the shell latch is working properly AND the shell you just loaded is fully inserted into the tube.
-
Back in the day during the 90's when I got my first M1 I also found that it would not reliably cycle the pre-flitecontrol wad, low-recoil buckshot LE132-00. It needed the more standard velocity buckshot loads to work 100%. I really wanted to use the low-recoil version and found SureCycle. They made, still make, recoil tubes/springs that were designed for use with the lower recoil ammunition. While expensive, I decided to try one out and, lo and behold, their claims of proper functioning with the low recoil ammo proved to be true. For me. I never looked back. That gun and two others of that vintage including a 14" entry gun have been fitted with one of their tubes since the mid 90's and have functioned reliably ever since. While they each sometimes hiccup on really-really light birdshot training loads, the original Federal LE132-00 and the current version with the flitecontrol wads works just fine in those guns. I've never felt the need to go with the Vital Shock & Tactical version with higher velocity. I did try some out and found that it didn't pattern as well as the Tactical lower recoil version anyway so there is no need to change. If you're really set on using their Tactical lower recoil version of the load, you might try out SureCycle. Worked for me.
This Reduced Power Spring Kit will yield similar results http://tarantacticalinnovations.com/tti-ultimate-benelli-power-pack-spring-set/
-
Short of grotesque limp-wristing, serious use guns should not fail to function without special holding techniques.
I agree100%.
-
ARe you saying the surefire forend will prevent the shotgun from cycling light loads?
A lot of the 3 Gun shooters reliable run guns with 12 round mag tubes which, when filled, add a good bit more weight than your Surefire fore end and 2 shot mag extension. Those items - by themselves - should not cause any issues.
IMHO, and from a lot of observation, I think the pistol grip inertia guns are more prone to short cycling with lighter loads that the conventional stock guns. Why? Because the triangle shape, bone support, etc. of your arm when gripping the pistol grip limits the gun's movement to the point of not allowing the needed momentum to adequate compress the inertia spring (the thick spring inside the bolt carrier) and make the action cycle fully.
You can experiment with how you hold the gun (pulled tightly against your shoulder vs allowed to move a bit more) and possible find a technique that lets the guns cycle that 1145 fps load...but most Benelli M2 shooters will tell you that moving up to 1200 fps 1 1/8oz loads will solve a lot of cycling issues.
-
Is this the 1145 fps load? If so, even with 1.25 oz payload the recoil generated is on the edge of “not enough” to cycle your specific gun. IIRC Federal has a 1325 fps Flite Control buck shell that should fix your issue.
-
It's amazing, I love it.
I have the factory collapsible stock.
Just wish someone still made a picatinny handguard.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1005294232/fab-defense-quad-rail-forend-benelli-m4-polymer-black
-
Wow, thanks for the inside info!
That's crazy. No consistency and no reason for it.
I'll see if someone can mill down my barrel to the correct length since finding a correct barrel seems to be a crap shoot.
I don't see why they couldn't import just the correct barrels and assemble them here.
Thanks again.
It is my understanding that our government's import laws prohibits Benelli from importing a SBS but does allow "manufacturing" them here in the US. Benelli imports the longer barrel guns with the sight in the correct location to easily make a short barrel once the guns are here.
-
Polish the bolt lugs after this many rounds?
Buy and replace the action spring first, IMO.
Yes, do that. The spring/tube may not be too dirty, but a piece of shot or chip of plastic (from a shell hull) could be binding things. You'll see that soon enough when removeing the spring.
-
What type/brand of shells is she using now? Were these shells being used when the gun closed properly?
When you take the bolt and carrier out for cleaning make the sure the cam pin and its slot is well greased when reassembled. Check that cam pin for any unusual wear or burrs.
-
Yes, more is better.
Since its aluminium, should I go with 4 holes instead of 2 or 3? -
I've drilled and tapped several of them. The receiver metal is too thin for a blind hole - so drill all the way through, tap, then trim the screws so they do not protrude too far into the inside of the receiver.
The receiver is aluminum... don't over tighten the screw and strip the threads in those holes!
-
Part #58 on this schematic?
http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Benelli-U-S-A-/Super-Black-Eagle-sid570.aspx#s15447sid570
If that is what you need send me message with your address and I'll send you one. You can either send me $10 or promise to take a kid, or new shooter, out to the range sometime.
-
Super nova 3 shot
in Benelli
Posted
The guns here in the USA do not have a mid tube crimp. Is the mid tube “crimp” visible on the outside of the tube? If not, could what you are feeling stop the follower possibly be the welded area that attaches the magazine cut off tabs?
If you gun has a factory installed crimp you can unscrew the magazine tube from the receiver (heat required to loosen the thread locker) and remove the follower from the breech end.
If the tab welds have penetrated into the inside of he mag tube you may have to fashion a method of sanding down the protrusion from inside the magazine tube.