Steve Rose
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Posts posted by Steve Rose
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Still available? If it is I will take it for $150
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You are on the right track. The Super Nova can have a plate attached to the stock tube (via a homemade coupling) for the new recoil pad screw into, but the Nova generally get a wooden block epoxied inside the stock.
Most epoxies will not bind well to the stock polymer, so cut some groves, notches, etc. inside the stock so the epoxy can mechanically lock into the recesses.
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I've had 2 shooters with the new Super Black Eagle III contact me about their guns patterning near 100% high when looking right down the rib. Anyone else having this type of pattern results with the SBE III ?
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I called FFT. They confirm that their lifter IS NOT HEAT TREATED.
Now at first, this seems like a bad thing. However, I cancelled my TTI order because TTI claims they ARE heat-treated.
So why kill the TTI order?
Because you CANNOT heat-treat 304SS, which both are made of. You CAN anneal it, but annealing actually softens the metal, which work-hardens from being cold worked. Cold worked like formed in a die. Like a shotgun shell lifter would be...
If the 304SS can be worked into shape without annealing it, this is best, but if too much working is required, annealing might be necessary to continue working it. This has many implications for the TTI and FFT followers. Ultimately though, annealing is part of the process of working with 304SS sometimes, and NOT "a heat treatment" in the sense people normally associate it. It softens the metal so it can be worked more, which again work hardens it. It is not some "final form" treatment like it would be with a knife blade or something.
So from what I gather, the TTI is actually the worser product, on paper, based on my understandings of working with 304SS. Here is more data:
http://www.aksteel.com/pdf/markets_products/stainless/austenitic/304_304l_data_bulletin.pdf
I wonder if the ad copy for the TTI product was written by someone that does not understand metal or manufacturing...also, for the longest time that TTI lifter was advertised as also fitting the Versamax when everyone knew the Versamax lifter was longer (I see a note has since been added that addresses that issue)
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Midwest Gun Works has them: http://www.midwestgunworks.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SEARCH&q=benelli+m2+barrel
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I handled the SBE3 at the SHOT Show.
The SBE 3 primary changes include a hinged (Beretta style) shell latch for easier loading of the magazine tube, redesigned receiver where the barrel is inserted into the front of the receiver (ala M2 and most other shotguns), a Vinci looking forearm. and a modification to the bolt that is supposed eliminate the “Benelli click”
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I made a “heater” for removing similar Benelli M1/M2 tubes that you guys might try. Turn a 1” long piece of steel to just under the ID of the mag tube (The piece of steel needs to slide into the mag tube). Attach the piece of steel to a long rod (I threaded it on to 3/8” CRS). Heat the chunk of steel to past blue, almost to glowing, then push it all the way down in the mag tube so it can transfer its heat to the mag tube and receiver. When the loctite starts to smoke pull the heater out and unscrew the mag tube.
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We (Rose Action Sports) have threaded several of those 14" barrels for Rem or Win-Choke tubes:
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The picture linked below is a standard +5 Nordic tube with the 21” barrel. Nordic now has +5B that is advertised as being flush with the 21” barrel.
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Does your M2 tactical have the 18.5" barrel? if so, Nordic says the +3B tube will be a flush with the end of the barrel (the +3B is a different tube than the standard +3 tube) https://nordiccomp.com/categories/new-nc-mxt-shotgun-extension-complete-assembly-12ga/
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Heat is required. The cap is secured with something like red Loctite
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There is no discernibly difference in pattern or velocity between a 26” or 28” shotgun barrel. Pick the one that feels/swings the best for you. The birds will never know the difference.
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Sure you can shoot trap with that SBE! Give it a try, it may be all you ever want or need. After you determine if you like the game you might decide to go all out and get a dedicated trap gun, By then you will have seen what everyone else is using and be able to make comparisons and best choices on the way to proceed.
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http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/ctgy/benelli-barrels
Get your checkbook ready. Benelli barrels don't sell for 870 barrel prices
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By design the bolt will only lock open when the mag tube is empty.
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Briley should not drill all the way through the release button when installing the oversize tab. While tapping a through hole is easier/quicker than tapping a blind hole the though hole weakens the press fit area of the part. (I know that does not help your immediate situation - but if you start over with a non-drill & tapped bolt release it is something to keep in mind)
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According to the Nordic Components info the Stoeger M3000 (and M3K) do NOT use the same connecting nut as your Benelli Super Nova
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When you manually pull the bolt back the bolt should not initially lock open unless there are no shells in the magazine tube AND you have pressed the shell release lever (the silver tab close to the trigger).
The area you are finding that the bolt stays open is not really “locked open”. That is the why the bolt release does to work. The bolt is hanging on lifter dog. This bit of geometry does not happen when there are shells coming out of the mag tube.
So the answer to you question is “No”, this is not a problem. If you manually cycle the bolt and get it the hang in the open position then just push the lifter to get the bolt loose again, but this is not going to happen when firing.
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Take a look at this part I found for sale. I never realized the barrel and the barrel extension were separate parts. I wonder if this was the source problem for Unobtanium's canted front sight issues several years ago.
I wonder if Benelliwerkes has ever taken one of these apart?
To a certain degree a loose extension could let the barrel turn and front sight cant (obviously the mag tube tube will limit how far the barrel turns when assembled). I think I've seen one loose Benelli extension and a few other brands (Remington 58 ?, maybe an A5 ?...its been a while). In each case cleaning up the parts and a good does of red Loctite got every thing back together.
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Just keep in mind that a shell does not come out of the magazine tube unless the hammer falls or the drop lever is pressed. You will be used to it in no time.
The drop lever design comes in real handy when you want substitute a shell in the chamber (swap a in shell with larger shot, slug, etc). Just pull back the bolt, eject a shell an insert a shell in to the chamber. The shells in the mag tube never move.
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Does the bolt fail to turn into lockup when firing? or only when hand cycling?
The bolt is moving forward with much more velocity when fired and if no problem exists then I would not worry about it.
If the problem exists when firing you can smooth off the extractor cut in the barrel (20,000 rounds is enough for the extractor to wear a groove into the barrel metal). No need to remove a significant amount of metal, just smooth off any rough edge or groove with 320 grit sandpaper wrapped around a small square file or flat wooden stick. I'd likely install a new extractor at the same time just to be safe.
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Can you post a picture? I think I know what you are referring to but I'd like to make sure.
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I know it looks “cheap” but if it is made from the right type of plastic/polymer it may actually be tougher than the metal part (bend instead of break). As you know, the 870 went through this change some time back too,
SBE II Comfortech Stock FS
in Benelli
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PM back to you...(I may have sent it twice...)