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shootingsight last won the day on October 10

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  1. Do you know if the trigger designs are similar between the SuperNova and the M4?
  2. I'm looking for a spare pistol grip stock to modify, so once you do find your field stock, let me know.
  3. I do not have the pistol grip stock, but it looks like the answer is to poke holes in the butt-pad to unscrew stuff. I do want to put a Tail-Hook on it, so I need a buffer tube. Got the bolt sorted. You need to take the charging handle AND the firing pin out. I tried each, but not together 🙂 Also, I fitted the 2-stage trigger, and it worked great, so I want to get that promoted. If you are firing slugs and want accuracy, 2-stage is the way to go.
  4. I made a 2-stage for an M4, though only a few are in the wild with little feedback, Pretty rare that you care about a crisp letoff for a shotgun.
  5. I'm in! Bought my gun today. Gotta figure out how to get the stock off. Spent 5 mins and could not get the bolt apart - I got the firing pin, cam pin, and charging handle out .... now I'm gonna have to read the instructions 😞 Thanks for all the help.
  6. LOL. You might be giving too much credit to the engineering budget of companies. I spent my career in a Fortune 100 company doing R&D, and we did what you think: if there is a doubt as to strength, you get 10 units (or 100), and you smack them with a drop test or multiple recoils until they break .... because you can afford that. Smaller companies will take one, try it out and if it does not break right away, they call it good. Dunno how big Scalarworks is or what they did, but I'd question how many receivers they were willing to destroy to confirm their design. That said, your thought about butting the rail up against something makes a lot of sense, and is a freebie.
  7. Counting on wicking might be touchy. The shear strength of loctite is a function of square inches of contact area. It does not have to be thick, indeed, for most adhesives, thinner is better, but you want big contact area. So I'd be generous in the application. Typically, I use green loctite, which is exactly designed to wick into cracks, and it is billed as being designed for application to screws after assembly, so the capillary action pulls it in. I don't trust this and generally apply it before assembly. Just beware that it comes in several varieties with differing setup speeds. For some, you only have a few minutes to complete assembly. Green is stronger than blue, but isn't permanent. With a few seconds from a blowtorch, it will loosen up.
  8. Thanks for all, it sounds like I'm going the route of just getting a black gun. I've got a plan for charging handles. We'll see what else I can see that I want to play with.
  9. NP3 will not perform on the hammer. This is why I chose NiB for the 922R hammers I make. Teflon is too soft to take much direct load, and at the sear edges, the pressure is immense - right up at the yield point of the steel. So making trigger components with Nickel-teflon, they start to gum up very quickly. The teflon can't take the load, so you get nickel bearing on nickel, or Nickel on steel, depending on it both components are coated, and nickel is soft, and it is a poor bearing surface. So the nickel starts to gall and wear away and the trigger feels cruddy. NiB is low friction and very high hardness, so it is a great anti-wear coating for high load parts. NP3 will perform well in things like slides and bolt carriers, where sideways forces are incidental and can be spread over large bearing surfaces.
  10. Looking to buy an M4, and it looks like there are two choices: Pistol grip or not, or collapsing stock. H2O or not, for an additional $200 So what is H2O? If I understand, Benelli used to make an NP3 coated gun, but now just uses a silver colored cerakote. So if I buy a new H2O, all I'm getting is silver paint for $200, or does the H2O package include any other benefit? Follow up - was the NP3 really a benefit, and I should look for a used gun, or was it merely marketing smoke/mirrors to try and get around 922, and I should save my money and stick with black? And what's up with brown and camo guns I see? Are those custom jobs, or discontinued? Nothing on the Benelli site. Thanks, Art
  11. Without knowing this gun, there are three reasons I can think of for this: 1. The firing pin is jammed forward. Either it is peened and jammed in the hole, or there is carbon or crud buildup in the hole. Net, the protruding firing pin hot the primer as the bolt closed. 2. Firing pin momentum. Dunno if this gun has a firing pin return spring, but if the bolt closed fast enough, the momentum of the firing pin can carry it forward. It's not unusual to see a small dimple in the primer on an M1 or an AR-15, because they do not have a return spring on the firing pin. That said, it is rare to hear of a slam fire. 3. Hammer follow. For some reason, the sear did not catch the hammer when the bolt closed, so the hammer started to swing as the bolt was closing. Whatever the cause, if it ignited the case prior to the bolt being closed, I imagine it could swell the base of the uncontained case, which is why extraction was difficult.
  12. Here it is with a first grip. I had 45 min till I was required for Family Dinner, so I banged out a handle.
  13. So here is what I'm playing with so far. I got Grade 8 alloy bolts, which I'm turning down so they have 1/4" of thread, and then are a shaft. Thought is I'll turn 3/4" hollow aluminum handles that are cup shaped on the CNC lathe, so these alloy bolts will thread through from the inside, and I'll have alloy steel shafts with aluminum handles. People who want weight savings, or want anodized colors, can get it without sacrificing the strength of the shaft. I had hoped that the larger diameter would get down to the thread base, and it didn't, so it looks a little amateurish (which is fine, because I'm not being paid to do this). I'm not going to worry for these prototypes. I might make a few where I just go a little deeper, to clean it up. Ultimately, I'll do the shafts on a screw machine, so they look decent. I'll dress a grinding wheel to create the radiused cut, and add the 3 cuts on a surface grinder. The head of these bolts is 1/2", so I have 7075 bar that is 3/4". 1/2" hole in one end means it will have 1/8" walls, so I can add a few grooves, or a slight hourglass cut. or maybe some knurling. If anyone has ideas for what they would like to see and/or can sketch it up, post a picture or just describe your ideas, I might be able to try them out.
  14. LOL. From Bud's: "Thank you for contacting us here at Budsgunshop.com! We greatly appreciate your patronage. Unfortunately, we would not be able to honor an older price." No worries, a used one will pop up sooner or later.
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