Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
Benelli Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


shootingsight last won the day on October 10

shootingsight had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About shootingsight

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. LOL. From Bud's: "Thank you for contacting us here at Budsgunshop.com! We greatly appreciate your patronage. Unfortunately, we would not be able to honor an older price." No worries, a used one will pop up sooner or later.
  2. Where did you find it? I looked at Bud's and they are $1800 for the black, $2000 for the H2O, same as all other places I looked.
  3. Thanks. Never shopped at Bud's, maybe now is the time to start.
  4. I'm looking at getting some Grade 8 bolts and throwing them on a grinder, so I can make shafts for the charging handle that have a head and a short threaded section. That way, I can turn different handles in 1/2", or 3/4" or plastic or steel or aluminum, and they'll screw on and still have a steel shaft. My issue is that I don't own an M4 to test with, and I'm pretty sure I'm never going to sell enough charging handles to make $1800 to pay for one, so R&D will be interesting 🙂
  5. Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question. I make a version of the hammer that makes the fire control be a 2-stage. Nothing else in the FCG is changed, it is only the design of the hammer I modified to convert it into a 2-stage. So in both cases, all you do is drop in a replacement hammer, but I have a 1-stage hammer and a 2-stage design. I'll look for Stranger Danger to post detailed results himself. He only shot the 1-stage, but was unable to outrun it.
  6. The OEM and my hammer are both a single stage, so that is just a single part swap in your trigger group. If you want a complete trigger group, that goes for around $300, so you could just buy that and swap in the hammer. It's only a 3 minute swap. I'll be posting a video on how to do it.
  7. I sent a prototype to Stranger Danger two weeks ago, but have not heard back since. So the answer is no, I have only dry fired in a couple of trigger groups that I own.
  8. I have completed the first batch of 922(r) compliant hammers for the M4 (though I think that also fits the M1, M2, M3). These are rolled plate tool steel, wire EDM cut, and NiB coated for smoothness. laser engraved to identify them as US made. Price is $85 with free delivery. These are not 'exact' copies of the factory. There were two issues I saw with OEM that I addressed: 1. When cocked with my finger off the trigger, the hammer could hang up on the trigger body before the sears came fully into contact. I'll make a video, but it meant there was a click when you touched the trigger, as the hammer popped fully into position. I fixed that. 2. When dry cycling, I got the hammer to drop as it was resetting. It only happened once or twice, but I added a little meat to the sear to make the handoff more reliable. As mentioned above, I added NiB coating, which smooths pull and might reduce pull weight slightly - though I have not measured how much. Also, I've come up with a version that makes it into a 2-stage trigger. At this stage, pull weight is slightly higher, though this is a work in progress as I explore if there is a demand, and how custom springs can remedy it. 2-stage is typically not sought after in shotgun. I don't think it will reduce effectiveness, but it might not be a benefit, so we'll see.
  9. No compelling argument other than the 922R. Frankly, the only reason I started this was a request for someone who wanted a 922R hammer, and I figured that banging out an exact copy of the OEM was an easy enough job. I learned quickly that it wasn't and I tweeked a couple of my dimensions. As stated, I saw issues with a factory hammer where the trigger could hang when it was cocked, and I did get the hammer to drop when I was trying to reset the trigger once, so I massaged sear sizes to eliminate both those problems. I added NiB coating, just because it makes everything slide nicer, and mine are more precise because they are wire EDM cut, versus stamped out sheet metal (not sure that does anything though). And I made a 2-stage just to see what people thought. Bottom line, if you do not need 922R, I don't think my hammer offers upgrades that cost justify replacing a factory hammer, unless you have had issues with following or with the hammer hangup. However if you do need 922R, I hope that the minor updates I made (plus having them in stock) will tip the consumer choice towards my hammer over other 922R offerings that either have issues, or are not in stock. As to all the concern about criticality of hammer and the doom and gloom about working on a trigger group, I make entire trigger hammer assemblies for semi-auto rifles that are adjustable match grade. This little hammer is way less complex. It is literally just a single part swap.
  10. The OP started by posting that he had a collapsible stock and a magazine tube, so for him it is 4 parts, isn't it?
  11. I'm about to start selling 922R compliant hammers for the M4 next week. At issue is that according to 18 U.S. Code § 922 (r), you may not assemble a non-sporting shotgun that contains more than 10 of a list of foreign made parts. The M4 with a 5 round tube is considered a sporting shotgun, and is exempt from the 10 part limit. If you make it a 7 round tube, it is no longer 'sporting' and you need to reduce the foreign part count by 4. US made tube is one, follower is another, collapsible stock is a third .... many shooters find the best option is replacing the hammer with a US made hammer for #4, to keep you legal. This is why I started looking into making them. Trigger mods are typically not made to improve the function any way, not to improve accuracy, but merely to replace a foreign part with a US one to keep you in compliance with the law. So to that end, I will be selling USA made hammers by next week. They just got back from the NiB coater today, so all I need to do is add the laser engraving for USA made. Of course, while I was at it, I did fiddle with the design just a little. I noticed in the two metal trigger groups I own that if you cock it with your finger off the trigger, the hammer can actually hang up on the trigger, slightly before it fully engages the sear, so you get a slight (and unnerving) 'click' when you touch the trigger as the hammer snaps fully into engagement on the sear. This does not happen when the hammer is caught by the disconnector and resets, only if you cock it with your finger off the trigger. The second thing I noticed (and heard from other people as well), that the factory hammer can sometimes follow. So I tweeked the geometry and think I have eliminated both those issues. Finally, all my hammers are NiB coated, because NiB makes the trigger pull smoother. OK, one more, I designed a variant that makes it a 2-stage trigger. I only made a dozen of this version, because I get it that shotguns do not live for precision triggers, though I did get a suggestion that it would help when shooting slugs. So I call this development a case of throwing something at the wall and seeing if it sticks. You'll never know if something is a good idea if you don't try it. So in summary, I think 922(r) is a silly thing, and I get that the probability of getting caught cheating is low. But I really do not want to go to Federal Prison. So if you REALLY want to have a 7 round tube badly enough, I recommend spending a few dollars more to comply with the silly law. If you can't afford the parts, just leave it as a 5 round tube. Now, addressing the question that the OP really asked: I think my parts will offer a slight benefit over the factory option, as discussed, though I admit I have not tested any other US made parts. I do not agree with the posts that are all doom & gloom about replacing parts in the FCG. Most people can handle swapping out a part, and the worst that can happen is that you shoot the hammer spring across the room and have to spend time on your hands & knees searching. Plus, you need to invest in a good set of C-clip pliers.
  12. Ha! I'm glad to hear that. I got up to prototype #7. I thought I did a decent job mirroring the factory design, but I noticed I could get it to follow occasionally. I assumed I had screwed up, because no way would factory hammers follow .... So this vindicates me. Yes, I fixed the following issue. I also fixed that sometimes if you cock it with your finger off the trigger, the hammer would sometimes stick on the trigger without fully engaging the sear, so you had to touch the trigger to get it to pop into proper engagement.
  13. Got my 922R compliant hammer designed, production starts this week. What is the interest level in a 2-stage trigger? In the process of making the new hammer, I've also designed a revised hammer that makes the trigger a 2-stage. Pull weight is slightly higher, though I'll look at reworking the springs so maybe that's a non-issue. In rifle, 2-stage is an advantage in accuracy, because hammer release is more predictable. However in shotgun, you sort of point and slap the trigger, because it is a shotgun. I don't think a 2-stage will be a negative, but is it a positive to anyone out there?
  14. If it goes 'click' after cycling, this is NOT a case of hammer follow.
  15. Sure sounds like hammer follow. For some reason, the disconnector is hanging up and not snapping forward fast enough to catch the hammer when the action cycles. This is bad, because it could lead to doubling.
  • Create New...