Retriever encouragement

[Lefty81]

I was wondering if any of y'all had some ideas of how to get my lab more excited about learning to take a line on blinds. We were out today doing some work and he eventually took the correct line but didn't seem like he was all that enthusiastic about doing so. This seems to be the one area I'm finding hardest to teach him. (if you subscribe to DU I was trying to work him on the "triple line drill" described in the july/august 09 issue) Thanks for the help!

[tyson129]

I was wondering if any of y'all had some ideas of how to get my lab more excited about learning to take a line on blinds. We were out today doing some work and he eventually took the correct line but didn't seem like he was all that enthusiastic about doing so. This seems to be the one area I'm finding hardest to teach him. (if you subscribe to DU I was trying to work him on the "triple line drill" described in the july/august 09 issue) Thanks for the help!

Has your dog had a bird in it's mouth yet (especially one that you just shot)? The hardest part with a lot of dogs is getting them to release. I know this doesn't answer your question at all but I was just wondering, because when they know that they are out to get a bird and understand their important role they tend to be enthusiastic about whatever job they are doing for you.

Edited September 4, 2009 by tyson129

[Lefty81]

Yes, he's spent the better part of two season with me so he knows about retrieving birds (no problems there). Which makes me consider using some type of scent or frozen ducks to practice blind work. Let me add by saying that in a hunting situation, it takes me throwing a empty shell or rock near the bird to get him to retrieve. He'll be 3 this Dec and I figured I still have a chance to teach him to take a line on a blind.

Edited September 4, 2009 by Lefty81

[(TANK)]

Lefty there is no easy way to do lining drills,They are drills and they get very discourged easily just like children. If there is alot of pressure involved it seems to get worse fast. If there is more no's and less praises they seem to shut down. I would start close in the field and run it for several days until the dog is comefy with that distance and move. For instance on a three leg blind run the middle blind first total distance 100 yrds, don't set the side legs may cause confussion w/ a young dog. Place bumpers in a pile back up 15yds have dog at heel and throw bumper to pile to show the line send dog on name or release command.Then send dog to unmarked pile when returned on back or release command for blinds if successful move back 15 or 20yrds and send if problems arise move up or toss the bumper toward the pile and continue if farther out use handling. Use the same place to train this drill and master it before you add the legs to the drill,the legs will have to be taugt the same way and don't place them to close it will confuse the dog. Go slow and show your dog what you want and it will go along way. If the dog slows or spirt falls a bit throw a fun bumper to pep them up. Be sure not to overdue the dog it gets hot and maybe you will only get to the 50yrd marker on the 1st leg in a session. Lots of praise for good work and try using birds some too. Hope this helps and good luck and good training.

[(TANK)]

Let me add by saying that in a hunting situation, it takes me throwing a empty shell or rock near the bird to get him to retrieve. He'll be 3 this Dec and I figured I still have a chance to teach him to take a line on a blind.

 

For the having to throw a shell to retrieve . It throws a RED flag on retrieving desire and should be fixed prior to doing any lining drills. The dog should want to retrieve on its on from the time it was a pup and you as a trainer should of encouraged it. Then a force fetch session should of been done. The info I gave before I read this post was for a dog that has been through FF and forced to pile and knows the back command and have ran a mini t pattern. Sorry for the confusion. You can truly teach an old dog new tricks but it will take alot of work and love on your part but you can't teach one to retrieve it is breed in. Please seek a Pro in your area or feel free to send me a pm.

[Lefty81]

I only use that on a bird he may not have marked, a partner's bird or one that eventually went down after flying low for a great distance. He's always excited about retrieving dummies that I throw. I've worked him with doubles, forced fetching, and the t pattern. He seems to lose his excitement on blinds.

[TMAC]

Blind retrieves can be tough. I am no expert but I tought my lab blind retrieves after I could direct him on a line to a known object. After he could do that well I would take a walk with 3 dummies, throw a few he can see and then start throwing some he cant see..........point being when ever you are directing him on a retrieve he as to believe you that there is really somthing there and he will want to find it.

 

I got to the point where I can really see my dog hunts to please me, that drive made it all go so much easier.

 

Give praise when he did somthing well, and corrections or punishment only when needed. Bigger accomplishments got more praise (treats are good with this).

 

Then repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat........More posetive experiences hunting just seemed to make him blossom, and avoid a teaching session in the field when possible.

[Red Huck]

I've got a friend who's Lab won't go in the water after a bird. My dog doesn't get to excited about drills especially during a Carolina summer but you should see her go for a bird. You may want to try the white bucket drill.Get a white bucket pile some bumpers near the bucket.Keep sending her till you can get her to take the line.You could use a tree for your mark. Give it a try. And stay calm your dog can sense when your frustrated.

[Lefty81]

Thanks for all the great advice. I started putting some of it to use this afternoon. Still a little too hot to get spend too much time on it in Georgia but I'll let you know how we progress.