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Magazine Operation/Removal


garnok

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Well that was easy. I ended up using a Milwaukee heat gun (1200w) using the low setting till the area warmed to around 160 then turned it on high until the area hit 250 or so. I did have a borrowed ir thermometer and the mag was easy to turn at that temperature. The mag tube was not very hot at the end and I did not need to use gloves for protection or friction on the mag tube to twist it off.

 

Thanks for all the advice. Worked out great. I will be giving it a good cleaning now that it is broken down.

 

Anyone know at what temp the loctite will break free for the recoil tube on a 1014?

 

Now do you see why we get irritated when everyone whines about "deforming their reciever" or "I'm scared" or whatnot with regards to the mag-tube?

 

The recoil tube--from what I have heard--is worth fretting over though.

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Now do you see why we get irritated when everyone whines about "deforming their reciever" or "I'm scared" or whatnot with regards to the mag-tube?

The recoil tube--from what I have heard--is worth fretting over though.

Why get irritated it's their choice although if your melting or deforming a M4 reciver with a heat gun you got some skills. But then again some people don't care one way or the other and throw on $100 aftermarket tubes so go figure.

I musta say if and when I install my OE Benelli 7 shot tube I will be using the same green loc-tite the factory does.

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Why get irritated it's their choice although if your melting or deforming a M4 reciver with a heat gun you got some skills. But then again some people don't care one way or the other and throw on $100 aftermarket tubes so go figure.

 

I musta say if and when I install my OE Benelli 7 shot tube I will be using the same green loc-tite the factory does.

 

I don't think they use the same stuff you can get called "gun-tite" or whatever. I think it is proprietary, but I have not inquired about it so have no sure evidence.

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I don't think they use the same stuff you can get called "gun-tite" or whatever. I think it is proprietary, but I have not inquired about it so have no sure evidence.

Actually most companies use proprietary liquid fastener locks. Companies like loc-tite & Permatex usually still make them but all of there standard products are still based on the same numbering system.

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Whatever the different companies call their product, I am sure that they use the same combination of chemicals. What I would like to know is what is the temperature at which the "loctite" , italian or whatever, becomes gaseous. It would not surprise me if the loctite company sells the product to Benelli under a different label as most large companies do. I am thinking around 450 F. What temp does the receiver go poof?

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Whatever the different companies call their product, I am sure that they use the same combination of chemicals. What I would like to know is what is the temperature at which the "loctite" , italian or whatever, becomes gaseous. It would not surprise me if the loctite company sells the product to Benelli under a different label as most large companies do. I am thinking around 450 F. What temp does the receiver go poof?

 

 

http://www.steelforge.com/alloys/?alloy=7075

 

This being said, M16 recievers are made of the same thing. The barrel on an M16 threads into the reciever. The barrel/chamber can get VERY! hot under FA fire, yet I have never heard of an issue with the recievers, even when the weapon is heated up to the point that the gas-tube ruptures or rounds cook-off in the chamber. Thus, I feel it is a non-issue unless you get stupid with a torch or something.

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i agree. the barrel melts first. I am going to find out what "loctite" is used in the threads of the M1014, and the melting point. Can't be to hard to figure out. Someone on here probably arlready knows. I have also never heard of anyone removing the tube and messing up their receiver either. I have a nice 1014, but I am going to give it a go.

 

Also, i did fxx up, I put the heat gun on my laundry and burned up some of my clothes. while taking the temp of the inside of the receiver, it was at 230,

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Flame on Hookster. How much flame for the recoil tube?

 

Sorry but I can't tell you. I haven't replaced a recoil tube but you could probably get instructions from Sure Cycle. Since people need to remove the factory tube to install their system I would imagine they offer a good set of instructions to cover removal of the factory recoil tube.

 

Later,

Hookster :)

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Has Sure Cycle stated anything for the M4? I would love to get my M4 cycling faster. I've been considering an internal coating like NP3 or the newer FailZero to increase lock time. I hate that damn disconnector issue.

 

Lightening the mass of the carrier is about the only way I can see you achieving this.

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I may have one of my M4's sold today. The selling point to some of the potential buyers came down to having a full length mag. They had no clue or desire to make the change themselves. Thanks to this forum for showing how easy it is to do. As for the recoil tube. I have found that the melting point for the heavy duty loctite is plus 300 more to the 450 degree level. I will do some more experimenting with my 1014 and post results.

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