Diabolus Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 I purchased a Sidearmor rail for my M4 and its great, but its coming loose after 80 rounds which is not acceptable. I was using blue Loctite on the screws to secure it, but it doesn't seem to be holding up. Am I not using enough blue Loctite, or should I be using the red Loctite? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Try more blue locktite. I wouldn't use red on the receiver threads. I forget if SideArmor specifies a specific torque ratting for reinstallation. I was always very worried that I would strip the fine threads. If I recall, they use allen head screws right? Coat the threads fully, then torque it down pretty tightly with the small angled allen key they provide. Let the locktite set for 24 hours before taking it out for another shooting session. If that still shoots loose, your threads might be damaged. So I'd then consider using red locktite. Just count on needing heat to remove it down the road. If you try to strong arm locktite, it will damage the aluminum threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diabolus Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 Thanks for the info. I have only used blue Loctite and its only been pinch tight with the allen key. I'll try re-tightening them and give it a go after 24 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 With the supplied allen key, I flexed the tool slightly when applying torque. Thumb along the front of the tool, and applied torque with my pointer and middle finger. Certainly no removing a bottle cap torque by any means. I sweat a little each time I've had to mess with those screws. I've heard of a lot of people overtorquing them and stripping out the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tactical1 Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Loctite usually recommends a solvent to prep the threads - acetone, etc I think will also work - used to remove the oils from the threads and accelerate the cure. Might be the original install had some oil still left on the treads and they loctite didn't reach full shear strength? Might also be worth a quick call to sidearmor to see if they do recommend a torque spec, although that should have been included in the instructions. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super33 Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Yup, I stripped one of them. It didn't take much. So be careful! Blue loctite with 24 hours of alone time does work. I blame the stripping of the screw solely on my bicep size being too immense and my rock hard forearms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekasey Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Couple of things are going on here. 1. always torque to spec if there is no spec provided the internet can probably provide the torque for the size of fastener being used. here's an ok chart http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html 2. You should be using the pink/purple loctite for small fasteners also follow directions you will now need to clean the thread holes and bolts very thoroughly i recommend using brake clean instgead of acetone as it will not leave any residue or minerals behind. http://henkelna.com/us/content_data/168592_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide.pdf usually a dab will do if done precisely. 3. be sure to torque evenly maybe do a pretorque of a low amount and tighten in a pattern from the inside out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xamoel Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Has this happened to anyone before? Just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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