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Some folks have flush mounted QD sling docks into the stock, accessing the work area via the buttpad cavity. There have also been folks who have installed a QD sling dock plate in place of the existing flat sling loop, however they indicated there was a fair amount of "gunsmithing" type work involved as that part of the firearm is not very service friendly.

I found the top to be better. The shotgun rolled less.

I’d ask to see if they’ll do it. I’m not sure what their gunsmithing capabilities are. Then if you’re going to get that sling plate, send it to them to get in with the plating batch. The little details are what really sets it apart from the factory H2O. I took this guy’s gen2 Magpul UBR apart and had them plate all the internals and screws. I think it came out slick looking.

I spoke to Briley since December of last year. They started production of their m4 MLOK handguard early this year. Ive been in contact with them and as of last week, they sent their first batch to get anodized. I dropped off my m4, I work right down the road from them, to get the loading port opened, switch to an A and S enhanced trigger guard, extended safety, and get this MLOK handguard in black.

Reference photo.

Noveske made the replacement sling plate. You can still find it on places like Opticsplanet. It’s listed for M1 but it will fit the M4. The trouble is the stock assembly is difficult to disassemble. You need two of those nylock nuts and a Mapp torch with a small tip wand to heat up the thread locker that was used by the factory to assemble the hardware inside the stock. I have one of those tutorial threads here somewhere about how to get it all apart if interested.

I would. It’ll be more abrasion resistant. I could tell the difference between the two types hardness wise. Should save you a few bucks too. The M4 isn’t known for rusting anyway and regular NP3 rates extremely high for corrosion resistance.

This one is done in NP3. I talked to their techs for a while about the benefits of NP3+. The only benefit of the plus is it has better corrosion resistance, but at a cost. The Np3+ surface hardness is lower than regular NP3. The NP3+ also costs a little more. So unless you’re living in a lighthouse, NP3 would serve most people best. Mine was done in about 14 weeks, so get your money together a little quicker! Glad to help. I took a few pictures of the receiver last night. The loading port job came out nice. I’ll post them up in a bit.

Parts came back from Wright Armory on Wednesday. They’re the new go to for Np3 plating. Normally Robar would electro-pencil serial numbers on each part except small screws and such. At Wright, they laser engrave the control numbers in tiny font size 4 lettering. They place them on spots that aren’t likely to show when assembled. I had about 600 parts with this batch. The only negative was they mixed the parts from my sorted bags. So having a couple hundred screws and washers to figure out what goes where can be challenging. They no longer plate titanium parts either. So I’ll have to get the magazine tube and a few other parts painted to match. One off topic mistake I made was sending in the shell plates to my Dillon 650. Apparently there are five plastic plugs in each plate. I thought they were metal plugs. Well they melted I guess so now I’m buying more plugs from Dillon.

Correct. I have around 300 loaded AR mags that have been loaded for 15 years. I’ll pull them out and use them with no issues. Same with various pistol mags from quality manufacturers like Glock/Beretta/Sig and so on. I’d only look to replace springs if a magazine starts having failures.