Leaderboard

It's not difficult if you have a modicum of common sense. The most challenging part was the safety plunger retaining pin installed without twisting the spring. This video is all you need to closely follow to install it correctly.

There's no official documents about parts and stuff for the public, so I am making this up as I go: The NZ M3 uses the plastic stock originally from the Supernova. It is also shared with the newest M3-A1, MR1, M4-A1, & GLX160. It is special because they reuse the M1014 grip. The tube you have posted should work with your M3. The back end should be threaded for M21 x 1 screw threads. As long as it doesn't say H&K on the side that's a good indicator it has the M21 screw threads. You would just need to use the M1014 grip. It is squared on the back to line up with the M3 receiver. You can look at stock shim kits to see the different shape. The curvy shim won't work with your gun; which also means the curvy the grip won't work. Some people bubba the grips on and they mismatch.

I like, "hidden in plain sight". I have a Shockwave case that I put embroidered patches on; they read, "Love, Peace & Clarinet". I think I'll get a clarinet pin or two for it as well. Do I play clarinet? No, but the implication is there. With a bit of creativity you could easily disguise this bag, I'm seriously considering getting one, thanks for posting it!

Its certainly more discrete than say a Pelican which screams firearms, or a branded bag that Benelli makes, or a camo inspired bag. People who know, will always know. Its to not draw attention of the suburban soccer moms and libs.

I don't know where they are made. I have a few of them and have been pleased with the quality. For long gun cases it's either these or Pelican for me. Made in USA is certainly preferred. I do try hard to not buy anything made in China.

M300v is going to produce much more detectable light than ML 940. Keep in mind...the ML is pumping out a TON of light...so dont look at it!!!! Its just in the range beyond what your intensifier sees. It can still cause mechanical and biological harm just like it was a modlite OKW.

@StrangerDangerappreciate the speedy response, thank you. All clear, I managed to get the pistol grip to come off with more torque, but it was screwed on really tight, as far down on the recoil tube threads as it could go. For anyone trying this out of the box, don’t be surprised if it takes a bit more the first time (and definitely remember to remove the trigger housing beforehand). It was a bit of a pain to return the grip back to that level of tension and seat in the correct position, but I managed. The tail stock comes off fine, but you have to practice the 10:00-2:00 motion to negotiate the bevel points at the end of the recoil tube to get the hang of it. Anyways, thanks again for the advice on this.

Heard back from the machine shop today regarding these. Some changes have to made to the design, due to the polymer mold that is used on the current cap, some aspects of the design are not practical. Instead of the lines popping out on top of the mold, the lines will be milled down into the handle (instead of protruding). As a result, this will lighten the cap a bit, but the look will be a bit different. Otherwise the milling time required will not make the cost feasible. This is the biggest change to the look of the cap. Still waiting on estimated weights vs the steel variant, I'll report back when I have the info.

I'd consider an aluminum one over titanium for weight savings. I'd also look into making have an embedded hardened steel ring around the base so the detent didn't chew it up the ratcheting teeth. The parts could be threaded together and bound together permanently.

Yes would not be any polymer or anything, just titanium, cerkote black. I may even try to engineer it a bit better on the inside to shave off more weight, I am in conversation with my machine shop engineer to see what we can do.

Maybe more if you have it kitted out with matched plating. At least until the market is saturated and the world runs out of chumps. Sadly true. You don't want a general gunsmith touching a Benelli. They best be a certified Benelli armorer at the very least. There are a lot of nuance parts that require specialized care to get apart and back together. It would be like taking your C7 Corvette to your local shade tree mechanic to have the transmission worked on.

Scout and Evolution covered most of it. The only thing I'd caution is Benelli did a bit of a bait and switch with the H2O models. The original H2O was NP3 plated. The current ones are Cerakoted to look like they're NP3 plated. Cerakote does pretty good at protecting the finish, but it does not have the embedded teflon substrate that makes it function without lubrication. The Cerakote models didn't even paint the small moving parts because Cerakote isn't really good for that. It's too thick and uneven of a finish that will cause tolerance stacking issues. I just sent my first batch of parts out today to Wright Armory. They're picking up where Robar left off for getting the plating done with CTL. CTL won't deal with the little people directly. I tried to send batches of a few thousand parts in and it wasn't enough for them to bother with me. We'll see how it goes with Wright Armory. The owner has been working with me directly to get everything lined up like the chemical stripping for the aluminum parts. For fun, I sent a good portion of my Dillon 650 in with this batch to get it plated. Including the main ram, shell plates, most of the screws, primer system and so on. My 650 is pretty tricked out with aftermarket parts like a Mr. Bullet Feeder. I process a lot of pistol brass with it. So anything to help keep it running smooth and grit free is a huge benefit. If you have one, you know they're prone to rusting, so it'll be a good upgrade for it. I sent in a client's high end AR15's. A close quarters model, and a long range precision build with a Nightforce optic. Carbon fiber wrapped barrels on both. Lithium aluminum receivers and so on. I disassembled the JP Enterprises silent buffers and sent all the parts for plating. I even took the UBR stock apart and sent the steel internal parts and screws in. Another issue with the Benelli H2O's is they didn't plate as much as they should have. They left a lot of the parts unfinished which hurt its performance and resistance to corrosion. They didn't plate the ARGO system at all or the rear sight assembly. Its nice being able to send your accessories in to get everything matching too.