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This set of parallel punches is unique in that the shaft slides along the length of the punch, so only a minimal amount of small diameter punch is unsupported that limits the likelihood of bending or breaking punches like SD mentioned. The Brownells set is useful sometimes, but as in this retaining pin situation, the shaft diameter was too large to fit in the narrow confines of the bolt access. For starting and finishing some pins where a tapered "starter" punch can not be used for whatever reason, I made a set of short shaft punches and hardened the tips which avoids bending and breakage.

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Well, we'd like to know the model too. A pic would sure help otherwise I'd just be guessing.

............make the punches from drill rod stock. The common roll pin holders are tool long for a lot of situations. Nothing worse than working with a crummy tool in the hand.

Finally got around to installing a Wilton 500S 5" vise and installed smooth jaws, it weighs 98 lbs, got it earlier this year. The only one Wilton makes still made in USA. I wanted the 6" but it weighed 150 lbs! The small roll pin holders are made on the lathe which is handy to create short pin depths and small diameters which are easier to control in the hand. I made this 5/32" last week.

Removing the M4 Bolt Handle Detent Spring Retaining Pin. The key to making the task simple is to de-tension the spring from acting on the pin, very much like for the bolt extractor roll pin removal. The second item is to have a tool to compress the spring away from the pin. I fabricated a fork tool from 1/8” hex wrench, after observing my M4 trigger safety spring tool would fit in the hole and compress the detent spring; the problem was that tool was too long to fit in vise for compression of the spring. The hex wrench was slotted with a Dremel to 0.067”, shortened to fit a polymer tool handle. The tool can then be fitted in the vise to compress the spring freeing up your hands to remove the pin. The pin is removed inside-outward, once de-tensioned a simple small tool such as jewels screwdriver or 1/16” hex wrench can be lightly tapped with a light hammer to begin moving the pin which doesn’t take much force. A right angle pick with slight pressure will complete the pin removal and the pick captures the spring so it doesn’t fly about. Cover the spring hole, remove the pick and extract the detent and its spring. Installation is the reverse. Compress the spring, insert right angle pick, use small pin holding punch to tap the pin in, displacing the pick. Make sure the inside of the pin does not impinge on bolt raceway. Generally, no need for breaking punches or flying springs.

Well, let the gun match the man. Here's a simple, bare bones version that works for me. I know it doesn't look like it LOL, but I actually learned a ton from this forum in arriving at this version after researching each and every M4/1014 add-on known to man and figuring out what works and doesn't work for me. Many thanks for all the knowledge and insight posted here. The truth be told, in a total fantasy world of course, if the recoil reducing ARGO system could somehow be magically matched to a simple, bare bones Coach Gun, that's the gun I would get.

Never point a gun at someone that you aren’t ready to kill. No non lethal rounds, if they pose a threat to your life you should be prepared to put them down for good. in Canada, if someone used a non lethal round on an intruder the judge would ask them, “why did you point your gun at someone, and fire a shot at them, if they weren’t enough of a threat to your life?” This is our law system up here, it is very against the law to point a gun at someone up here even for an intruder, they absolutely need to lose a threat to your life. in summary, if you are willing to point a gun at someone, you should be prepared to take their life.