mudhen
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Everything posted by mudhen
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H-13. But I can now say that H-13 is not very effective at 45 yards Hit the bird hard, just not hard enough. Probably back to XR for now.
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Great hunt this morning. This bird worked in from 500-600 yards away. At one point, he stood and gobbled 7-8 times at the Dave Smith decoy. God I love these birds. It's going to suck when I die and can't hunt them anymore
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Nice post, but a total waste of time for most of us All I am talking about is using the best guns, best shells, best chokes, best cleaning material, that are normally available to most of us. My SBE II now throws 200+ pellets in the 10" ring at 40 yards. All it took was the right shell and load combo + some barrel cleaning. All factory stuff. My Gold throws 230+ with a $35 choke tube. Benelli only slightly raised the price when they went to Crio in 2005 or 2006. I will believe their marketing long before I'll believe any Internet Wizard. No need for 99.99% or maybe even 100% of the above mentioned fluff. You pretty much got all bent out of shape for nothing.
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Thanks for your opinion, but I'm not the least bit interested in a shotgun that throws an "acceptable" pattern for hunting
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I know quite a few folks that just remove both beads for wingshooting. One guy just chopped both beads off with a machete and then painted the Sport II with spray paint Right from the box! I love both beads for turkey hunting and don't even look at beads while wingshooting, so I leave them in place.
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Did it take you four years to come up with that
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The first bird of the year is always special to me (if I even get one!). Even though I don't need to kill to enjoy the sport, the kill always makes it extra special for me. This bird came in early, in strut all the way, dead focused on a pair of the new Dave Smith hen turkey decoys. We let him dance long enough to ensure there was not a second tom for the other shooter, and then I was able to pretty much pound him at 28 yards. 22#'s, 8" beard, 1" spurs. SBE II, Primos Jellyhead .660, H-13 2.25 oz #6's.
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Waaaaay to large for my SBE II. I e-mailed and faxed them with no reply. I cleaned the choke up a bit with some automotive sandpaper and eventually got it to barely fit. But, knock on wood, I love the SSX for the Gold
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Shot just ok in my SBE II with H-13 2.25 oz #6's. The choke fit horribly btw. But it shot better in my Browning Gold: Overall, I'm pretty happy with these $35 chokes.
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I agree with this guy!
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Troll..............
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What is the point of this post? You have not even shot the repaired gun yet. For me, you have just lost what little credibility you might have had (which was not much to begin with). They probably just replaced a few parts to shut you up. I've always suspected you are just a mere troll. Now I know it for sure
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Ok, I'll go out on a limb here and agree with your statement. While I love my Brownings and others love their Berettas, I think Benellis are a much better made product. Benellis are more like a professional tool. Well made and easy to use. Not perfect, but better than most. Don't get me wrong, I love my Browning Golds and Silvers, but I think I could break them if I wanted to. If I took my Browning Silver to Iowa for spring snow goose shooting with no limits and no plugs, and used some cheap off-brand of 3.5" BB's, I don't think the gun would hold up long. Very generally speaking, Benellis are better made than most other brands of semi-auto shotguns. Just my take...
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I don't think you can sell gun parts on E-Bay anymore. Let us know if they let you.
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I have found that the under-bored .719-.723 Benelli barrels (Crio or not) will tend to pattern smaller shot pretty well. If lead was still legal for everything, I would shoot only Benelli products. I do really like over-bored and back-bored barrels though. It seems like they will pattern larger shot, like steel BB's, well. I have several Brownings that pattern large steel shot very well. But each barrel has it's own set of requirements that can make each very effective. By selecting certain choke and shell combinations, I can make both barrels very effective.
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My season starts this Saturday and I will hunt turkeys until almost June. They will gobble more on some days, and not as much on other days. A human can only affect wildlife biology so much. As a matter of fact, what we do is generally contrary to turkey biology in the first place. A gobble is designed to attract a hen. Same for fans. In nature, the hen comes to the gobbling or fanned tom, not the other way around. You pretty much just have to be in the field and accepting of what nature gives you on that particular day, or even that time of day. I have found that toms will gobble sometime during every day. That you are not there to hear it, or are too far away to hear it, or whatever, is not the tom's fault. Remember, generally speaking, he ain't gobbling for your benefit
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$65 is cheap. My dealer is $95. I've seen them for $110 Yes, I HATE the Limbsaver for the SBE II. Stupid cheap adapter. You can remove maybe twice before the thing falls apart.
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Well, this is not as simple as it sounds when it comes to aiming the SBE II (or any gun with bead sights) if you use the beads, because the shims can't really change the alignment of the sights. Wingshooting? Sure, shims can change the POI because the angle at which you hold the gun is changed by changing the shims. Of course, this all depends on not using the beads during wingshooting, which I don't. I have had a little luck moving POI by changing shims. It might be just the way the beads line up after changing a shim, but I can make the pattern move up and down a bit. Sometimes these minor changes are enough for me. For waterfowl wingshooting, I use the C shim + the A shim that I ground down to increase drop. For turkey, I use the factory B shim, aim at the base of the bird's neck, and allow the rising pattern to hit the bird pretty much squarely in the head and neck. This way I avoid pellet damage to the breast meat, and if I miss, I miss high and the bird survives to be chased another day. This way I can watch the bird's head all the way up to the shot. Here is my POA for my SBE II (black area): Good luck!
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Oh, it comes off all right. How old is your M1? Is the nut a hex nut? If so, you should be able to heat the area to break the factory lock-tite seal, and remove the nut with a wrench. I use a little propane torch. I want to say 17mm on the wrench, but I could be wrong. A closed end wrench works best for me. Note, maybe put a nail or screw in the drain hole before you totally remove the nut. This will hold the recoil spring in place. Your forehead and/or other facial features will thank you I use a 20 gauge bore brush wrapped with steel wool and attached to a drill to clean out the recoil spring tube. I usually buy a new spring from Wolff when I do the total cleaning. I've been doing this on older Benellis for almost 20 years.
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Yes, heavy loads of small pellets or any load with larger pellets. Just my take.
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I have not used the Benelli .665. Is this the Trulock one they show on the website and catalog? I'm getting some solid results from an unported Carlson .665 though. This chokes likes H-13 2.25 oz #6's and Federal HW #7's. Not bad with Win XR #6's, but not as good as the Jellyhead. I got 175 hits at 41 yards with the .665 and H-13 combo. With a .665, you might do well with larger pellets and/or a very heavy load like the H-13's I described above.
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$120 + shipping. Comes with a carrying bag & metal rod to stand it on. I love stuff like this
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Just arrived from Brown Santa I just love stuff like this. Do I need it? No. Do I want it? Yes.
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I bought a SG for my SBE II last year and hated it. I pretty much forgot that I aim a turkey gun using the beads, so you are pretty much stuck with where the gun prints as assembled. My SBE II with the SG printed at least a foot low. I won't use the silly add-on sights or Kentucky windage, so I sold the SG on E-Bay for $30 more than I paid for it. I didn't want to bother with having a gunsmith tear the stock apart to get it to fit me. I heard that there was a Comfortech SG system in the works, but I've seen nothing about it anywhere. I'm sure the Sims pad would work fine though.
