tucker301

Where to find one at any price .

What I'm doing is not supporting DU, but supporting Delta. I don't know what you're doing. I'm also beginning to actively and agressively lobby for changes in baiting laws that will outlaw the growing of grain for the sole purpose of attracting waterfowl.

Look at your lower receiver and compare it to this picture of a RH SBEII. http://www.benelliusa.com/firearms/large/sbe2CTMax412Ga.jpg Your carrier control button and cartridge drop lever are on the same side of the lower receiver as they are on the RH model. The only difference is the safety. Now Benelli is playing tricks with their photographs of LH SBEII's on the main site. Compare these three images. I smell a Photoshop! LH Camo LH Black LH Monte The Monte matches my SBEII LH on the two afore-mentioned parts. The others do not.

While it is normal for the carrier to stay up after loading, it is supposed to flip back down when the action is cycled after firing. In this regard, there is a problem with yours and you need to call Benelli CS.

New products at Brownells

MOwaterfowler pretty much summed it up. Welfare half-tamed ducks raised on flooded grain will dilute the general population and migrations will be a thing of the past. Waterfowl doesn't migrate because it wants to. It migrates because it has to. As these impoundmnents continue to outperform nature in providing habitat and food, the ducks will stay year-round. This has already occured with Canada Geese. Until the 80's, it was unheard of to see geese in these parts in the summer. Golf courses, lakeside developments and turf farms have anchored them here and established a resident population that has no clue what a migration is. One year of dust bowl drought conditions will cut their numbers at least in half as they sit there waiting for the water to come back, no longer imprinted to migrate anywhere. High concentrations on these projects will also amplify the effects of communicable diseases and will decimate populations in entire regions.

Degrease with alcohol only the exposed areas. Paint with any good quality flat camo paint. Krylon and HS make good camo paints.

Like it was 1999.

Any hevi-shot should be fine through the turkey choke.

Glad to see someone actually answered the question that was asked. Good work Nomas! As the man who wants no more fish pointed out, our resident turkey guru is mudhen. Here is one such post regarding choke tubes. http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12254

It's been SLOW here, because of the warmer than usual weather, but if finally cooled off this week. Thursday, we hunted in snow, sleet, and rain and got a three man limit of woodies, mallards, blacks, wigeons, and ringnecks. I knocked down my first ever drake pintail, but after an hour long search, resulting in the flattening of an acre of cattails, I gave up on finding him. I marked the exact spot he dropped, but he went in with just a broken wing, and the water was 3' deep with cattails for 300 yards in every direction . No pics from Thursday. Friday, we tried a different setup. Had hundreds of shots on ringnecks, but didn't fire the gun. I really don't care for them. Saturday, we went back to the spot we hunted on Thursday. The weather was sunny, but reasonably cold and windy. Had a lot of mallards come in before legal light, but the left before we could shoot. Nonetheless, I did manage to get a banded greenhead around lunchtime and a hen pintail mid-afternoon.

A larger framed man may want a longer barrel to compensate for his longer reach and overall build. To understand this, pick up a youth model shotgun and try a couple of mock passing shots on geese. A longer barrel swings more fluidly than does a shorter one. A longer sight plane makes getting on target, swinging through, leading and following through somewhat easier and it gives the illusion of bringing more distant targets in closer to the shooter. Snap shooters like quail and grouse hunters do not benefit from these factors, as the gun is typically mounted swiftly and the shot is quick on a flushing bird. Passing shots on ducks and geese present an opportunity to give more time towards getting on the same line as the bird's flight path and establishing proper lead; important factors in making a good passing shot. In the blinds, 28" or 30" barrels are no more cumbersome than are 24" barrels, but in the thickets the shorter barrels are most desirable.

That's not really what I meant to say. What I was saying was that the easyhit sight can be a tool for people who cannot naturally shoot instinctively (pointing the shotgun with both eyse opened) to learn how to do so. Once instinctive shooting becomes, well... instinctive, then the easyhit becomes unecessary and distractive. The easyhit wasn't for me and it's not everyone, but it does a purpose and a place. I see it as braces for your shooting form. Once your form conforms to the new shape, the braces can come off.

I've shot with no bead, brass beads, factory beads, and easyhit. The Easyhit was distracting to me. I was paying more attention to the bead than I was the ducks, and I was missing a lot of ducks that morning. I pried the easyhit off with my knife blade and immediately dropped the next pair with no bead. I'm not saying any more or any less than I've already said. I know exactly what Tom Knapp says in the videos. I even ripped the video from the DVD and posted it on here a while back. I don't think it's going to help with the fit of the gun, but it may force better alignment of an ill-fitting gun.

You should consider an easy hit sight if you're having roblems keeping your head down or keeping your eye centered over the rib (eye dominance issues). Otherwise, the factory bead is fine. Learn to shoot instinctively by pointing the shotgun with both eyes opened, paying little to no attention the the beads. You'll shoot a lot better, and you'll be safer.

More like legumilar baitinomics .

Why not check in the other thread where you asked the same thing?

http://www.calssportingarmory.com/BenelliR1Accessories.htm

The pattern is the same as the Browning BAR, so anything that fits the BAR will fit the Argo. However, the Argo's base is tapered, to put it on the same plane as the bore. Using a flat base will cheat you out of a great deal of elevation adjustment on your scope. Perhaps so much that you won't be able to zero it at all. Better to buy the base made for it. The "steel"? It either has hard rubber inserts, screws with slotted heads, or nothing in the mount holes. Disassemble the rifle removing the bolt and trigger group. If there are plugs in the receiver they can be easily pushed out from the inside of the receiver.

Just being the antagonist. M1014, Is that the only pic you got off that Fisher Price digital camera?

Not even close. I can promise you there are more knowledgable members. I just happen to be able to spend a LOT of time online. My boss (me) makes sure of that Glad to help when I can.

Why was there water in a bean field? The grow beans around here, but they're not flooded at any point during the agricultural process .

http://www.surecycle.com

Nice Mossberg!

You need a stock retaining bolt, correct? Click here Not what you need? Click here I honestly don't know what the thread size and pitch are. The diameter will be M8. I could take it to a shop and get it measured, but I'm really not motivated to do that. Do it yourself or better yet, call Benelli and ask them. Easiest fix is to buy the parts you want from Brownell's via the above links. Best of luck.