tucker301

You want the front sight on top of the mid bead, making a figure 8. The 8 goes just below the intended target, leaving the target fully visible.

http://www.deltawaterfowl.org/research/aab/024_redhead.php

I didn't get a buck, but I had two shots that I passed up. I was 75 yards into the oaks off the back corner of a bean field. A four pointer came up the creek from my right and stopped about 30 yards straight in front of me. He was acting funny. Not spooked... just different. While I was checking him out, a six pointer came in from my left. They both laid their ears back and the hair stood up on their backs. They came together in a whirl of hooves and horns that lasted about three seconds. The smaller one tucked tail and retreated while the larger one proudly strutted around in a circle as if to say, "Who's next?" I probably should have taken the six, but I was holding out for a much bigger one that's been seen in the area. Besides, I've killed dozens his size. No biggy. Heading back out at about 2:30. [ 11-04-2006, 09:55 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

I use the C & H model that replaces the mag cap, and it does OK for me. I use it in early goose and duck seasons. After it gets colder, I've usually got on enough clothes that it makes no difference. The C & H models fit just about any gun. They have stock models, cap models, and models that replace the limiter plug. [ 11-04-2006, 09:47 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Today, while sighting in muzzleloaders with a group of fellows, it came to my attention that there are many people who have no clue how to quickly and easily sight in a scope using about three shots. If you can get a shot on paper, you are about two shots away from obtaining zero. Here's how: It's best to have a friend to help, but you can do this by yourself. I have done it many times. Aim for the bullseye and squeeze off a shot. Now let's say that shot hits 6 inches low and 8 inches to the right. Instead of counting clicks, just do this. Set the rifle firmly on the bags again and aim for the bullseye just as before. While holding the rifle motionless and viewing through the scope, turn the scope's elevation adjustment UP until the crosshairs align on the same horizontal plane as the bullet hole. Don't be confused by the motion of the crosshairs as they move. They will actually track down in the scope's view. While still holding the rifle still, move the windage knob LEFT until the crosshairs align vertically with the bullet hole. Again, the crosshairs will actually track to the right on the target as you make the adjustment, so don't be confused. Just hold the rifle steady while making the adjustments. All you're doing is simply moving the crosshairs to where the bullet impacted the target, which is exactly what you want for a zeroed scope. Fire another shot and make a few more tweaks until you're satisfied. [ 11-03-2006, 07:01 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Model?

You're going on the "watch list"!

skidaho, Send me yours and I'll send you mine. Then we can answer this post

I looked at the parts breakdown on the Italian site. While it shows the Comfortech stock and forearm separately from the standard models, there does not appear to be a clear reference to it. Just to be clear, you are referring to removing the nut that joins the forearm to the barrel, and not the nut that joins the barrel to the receiver? [ 11-02-2006, 05:04 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Between those two the Nova is the best choice.

Then again, maybe.... PDF File (307k)

Not with that little bit of information.

http://www.lasermax.com/product.php?id=104

I usually get the Hoppes Elite Field Cleaner, which is basically the same stuff. I'm thinking it was around $6.00 for 4 ounces? Midway, Cabelas, Sharpshooters, Natchez, etc..

Husker is 100% correct.

Well, I'm not supposed to be typing this, but there is talk of a SBEIII. Some of the new features will be: It will shoot low and to the right, instead of high and to the left! It will stovepipe every round, not just the second or third. To do this, they're building a new perpendicular magazine so that the shells will stovepipe without even making it to the chamber. It will be made of high carbon unfinished steel. You can also buy the "briney wash" kit to accelerate the corrosion even more. Camo'd guns will be more realistic than ever, with their new proprietary "indigenous flora" camo. When you buy the gun, Benelli looks up your house on Google Maps and determines which types of plant life are prevalent near you. They then cut a bag of leaves and twigs and glue them to your SBEIII for you. [ 11-02-2006, 06:26 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Impatient people use "bump" or "BTT" (back to top) to push their converstation back up the list. Since most forums sort the messages by newest first their needy little messages are shoved in front of others, even though there's been no real discussion. Sort of like that annoying little four year old tugging at your pants, "I wanna go ride the ponies. Please, please, please!"

Yup. Any decent gunshop will have 'em. Brownells too.

Beats me then. Call CS and tell them to send you an accurate parts manual?

No, no, no, no no, no!!! Those are automotive style 13 mm sockets, and they won't work for guns. Guns require the NEVA-CEENIT-COMIN certified tools for proper fit. As it happens, I have a 13mm deepwell, extension, and ratchet that I'm not using. I can let you have them for $98 (PayPal). PM me if interested. If you get it, don't bother.

On the standard model there is an allen screw accessible from the groove for the barrel channel. I would imagine the ComforTech is the same. Did you have a parts manual?

You had to know that this was coming

Tripower = triple illuminated. I think it's still a 1x system, isn't it? At any rate, the Tripower is designed for 100m and 200m use. That's a bit out of the range of the shotgun. Eotech or Reflex.

Gentlemen, I don't know how many ways I can say this before it gets through. There are several factors built into every R1 which serve to render the gun incapable of producing tight groups. 1. The receiver is, by the standards of truly accurate rifles, weak. There's a reason that the most accurate rifles in the world are built on solid bottom, heavy, stiff receivers. Shooters bed the actions and recoil lugs of their rifles to get sub MOA groups. They don't do it for fun. They do it because it works. The R1's action is held together by a couple of pins and it slides on rails against springs when fired. There's no consitency to that. None. 2. The bolt is, by the standards of truly accurate rifles, incapable of consitentcy. Master riflesmiths work religiously to time and true every aspect of a bolt in order to deliver shot to shot repeatability. Close the bolt on an R1, and then tug on the bolt handle. Feel any movement? Now close the bolt on a well-built bolt action rifle and do the same. You'd think it was weled in place until you rotate to unlock it. An R1 unlocks when you pull it back. An accurate action won't pull back until you unlock it. There's a reason. 3. The barrel mount system is in no way desirable to someone who seeks tight groups. As the skinny little barrel heats up, the pressures of the anchoring system bend and torque the barrel in erratic and unpredictable directions. With each round fired, the harmonics change dramatically. The barrel nut loosens with each firing, changing the same pressures and fittings that a bedded recoil lug and action eliminate. A precision rifle will feature a heavy barrel to lessen the harmonic variations, and it will be free-floated from the receiver to remove external pressures that push, pull, bend and twist the barrel unpredictably. 4. Yes, the trigger can be worked down to a tolerable pull weight, but the accuracy formula is more than just a light trigger pull. I am amazed that Benelli CS would even consider taking an "innacurate" R1 back in for a checkup. They have inaccuracy built into them. They can't help themselves. That coupled with the fact that they're being fired by relatively inexperienced bench shooters, pretty much guarantees abysmal groupings. No, I'm not downing the R1. It is a finely built, beautifully crafted, well balanced, lightweight, short range repeater. I am downing anyone who buys one with the misguided delusion that the rifle will perform on a par with finely built and tuned bolt guns and well-built target semis. Like any rifle, it will shoot certain loads better that others, and there is room for improvement, should someone care to invest the time and effort. But please don't ask more of this rifle than it was built to deliver. [ 10-31-2006, 11:40 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]